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Old 05-17-2011, 08:51 AM   #61
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Rivet wall mount(s)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimGolden View Post
Christopher,

Here are two ideas you might consider:

1) Take the aluminum angle and cut it into pieces about 1.5" long. Lay out your arc on the frame, then attach these "clips" as close as you like along the arc. Then you can rivet your shell to them.

2) Take the aluminum angle and cut notches out of the horizontal portion that will attach to the frame. Maybe remove 1/4" every 1" or so. By doing this, you can then bend the piece into one long clip. The vertical portion will flex no problem, but you need to relieve the horizontal portion so that it doesn't buckle on you.

OOps, on reread I just noticed you were attaching a roof section to the wall and not a curved panel to the floor/frame. Doesn't the upper panel overlap the lower and you just rivet one to the other? And don't they overlap front over rear? You could always use flat plate for that too.

Hope it helps,
Thanks Jim,

It is an interior panel--attached to the wall/ceiling/floor...

I think I have come up with a solution:
2 types of mounting strips for the wall section(part of rear shelving cabinet)...

1. a 4ft. length shelving strip(1/2" inner width)--this has all the necessary access points to fasten screws to the inner wall(skin); and provides 2 sides(about 3/8" depth) for the wall section to be 'sandwiched'.

2. Then some aluminum angle(or L brackets) to affix the top(curved) portion of the wall section to the inner ceiling(skin).

Should provide plenty of structural integrity--especially when tied in with the further rearward wall section to make the shelving cabinets.

Looks Like a 4'x8' Sheet of 1/8" Luan and 3/8" backing board--adhered together might be the solution for the wall...then that will also provide for 1 of the sections of the lower bed cabinets.

Kinda sounds like it is getting HEAVY....

Maybe a perimeter frame 3/8" backing with the Luan attached(kinda like it was originally) ...

I'll take pictures and this will ALL make more sense...I have the visual in My head

I should post this in My thread too '77 Silver Streak "Refurbish"....

Cheers,
Christopher
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:00 AM   #62
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Here's a link to help with the visual aspect...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimGolden View Post
Christopher,

Here are two ideas you might consider:

1) Take the aluminum angle and cut it into pieces about 1.5" long. Lay out your arc on the frame, then attach these "clips" as close as you like along the arc. Then you can rivet your shell to them.

2) Take the aluminum angle and cut notches out of the horizontal portion that will attach to the frame. Maybe remove 1/4" every 1" or so. By doing this, you can then bend the piece into one long clip. The vertical portion will flex no problem, but you need to relieve the horizontal portion so that it doesn't buckle on you.

OOps, on reread I just noticed you were attaching a roof section to the wall and not a curved panel to the floor/frame. Doesn't the upper panel overlap the lower and you just rivet one to the other? And don't they overlap front over rear? You could always use flat plate for that too.

Hope it helps,
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f417...tml#post993746
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:58 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garryk6 View Post
Hi, I am restoring a 1966 Avion TC and have been looking for some anodized aluminum sheeting. I saw you got some from Florida. Do you mind letting us in on the secret stash? ANd if you don't mind giving us an idea as to cost? My issue is that shipping will probably be more than the cost of the aluminum, as I live in Kodiak, Alaska.....
Thanks in advance,
Garry in Kodiak

Hi,

Sorry for the delay in getting back. I found 5005 clear anodized Aluminum from

Custom Precision Metal Processing and Aluminum Processing and Steel Processing - Steel Coils, Steel Sheets, Aluminum Coils, Aluminum Sheets, and Aluminum Extrusions

E-mail them. I worked with Dave LaChapelle and the service was very very good. e-mails and phone calls were returned in a day, Highly recommended. I used 0.040 thickness which is working great. They can get 0.032 which ix slightly thinner and is what the silver Streak uses. I bought (10) 4FT X 10FT sheets for $717.00 shipped. Each panel weighs 27lbs. They made a 10FT pallet for it and protected it very well. They marked it do not top load. They shipped it on southeast freight lines who put it on a special truck trailer that is racked for this type of load. I used a credit card and received it in 7 days. The pallet alone must have cost $50.00 to build. They really know their stuff and know how to handle the metal and ship it right. This metal is used for architectual panels and making window frames and trim etc. The quality is very good.

BTW this is a big company and they may have North west coast facilities or some location better for you.

Good luck!
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Old 05-22-2011, 07:10 PM   #64
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Thumbs up More Valance Pics and Flooring is In

I got all the flooring in this weekend. That is, in the one room I'm working on. The 45 degree probably over doubled the time it took due to measuring and cutting so many pieces. I like the result. With the twin bed, seat and table it will look good. The 18gage air nailer worked spectacular. I used 1 inch long 1/4 crown staples. Never missed a beat. Depending on the edge in question some of the walls have some distance to the first air driven staple due to being able to get the nailer close up. I did do some pilot drilling and hand nailing with #4 finish nails. Even then, there are some areas that will have to be glued. (the boards with the blue tape are ones needing glued) Also have a few pics of the other two valance panels. I wish I did not have so much left to do in this rear room or I would just keep putting down the wood floor until the whole camper was done. I have enough wood to finish the camper. That will have to wait a while.

For the 45 degrees I measured equa distant from two corners and snapped a chalk line at the 45. Then came off of it with a square in several places and snapped some more 45 lines. I put some finishing nails on the chalk line and backed in the first 4 or 5 boards and then stapled the first board. From there I just went outward. As I crossed my chalk lines I confirmed the angle was staying on track well.

Pic showing the 45 lines and the finish nails that the boards were initially laid against to start the 45.
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Two more pics of the other finished valances
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:41 PM   #65
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I knew that 45 dree floor was going to look cool!!! Good work!!!
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Old 05-24-2011, 07:30 AM   #66
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Rivet Looking Great!

Nice floor ... appreciate the 45 You did with it.

After looking through this thread...I had to stop myself from getting TOO FAR into My "Refurbish" .....

Good to See Your Progress Too.

Enjoy,
Christopher
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Old 05-24-2011, 09:44 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chowman2011 View Post
Nice floor ... appreciate the 45 You did with it.

After looking through this thread...I had to stop myself from getting TOO FAR into My "Refurbish" .....

Good to See Your Progress Too.

Enjoy,
Christopher
Thanks, I hope to hit it hard this Holiday weekend and have the spacer wall and shelf that separate the trunk from the rear room mostly done. Next is to reinstall the hot water heater and that could take a while as I want to clean it up good and get a good reseal to the outer skin. Also will be constructing the bed frames out of Aluminum.

If all goes well I'm going to have a very versatile rear room. I'm planning on a twin bed on the left, a 20" deep full length seat on the right and a table with leaf in the middle. Then I'm going to have a 15" full length spacer cushion stored under the 20" seat so I can either make the twin into a full (54" wide) or the seat into a twin. This will give me 1 twin and a seat, 1 full and a seat, or two twins. I still need to work out a few details...
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Old 05-24-2011, 11:09 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ETN550 View Post
Thanks, I hope to hit it hard this Holiday weekend and have the spacer wall and shelf that separate the trunk from the rear room mostly done. Next is to reinstall the hot water heater and that could take a while as I want to clean it up good and get a good reseal to the outer skin. Also will be constructing the bed frames out of Aluminum.

If all goes well I'm going to have a very versatile rear room. I'm planning on a twin bed on the left, a 20" deep full length seat on the right and a table with leaf in the middle. Then I'm going to have a 15" full length spacer cushion stored under the 20" seat so I can either make the twin into a full (54" wide) or the seat into a twin. This will give me 1 twin and a seat, 1 full and a seat, or two twins. I still need to work out a few details...
How will the "trunk" fit into it? (And the changes to that room, wow!!)
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:04 AM   #69
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Rivet Getting a Visual

If all goes well I'm going to have a very versatile rear room. I'm planning on a twin bed on the left, a 20" deep full length seat on the right and a table with leaf in the middle. Then I'm going to have a 15" full length spacer cushion stored under the 20" seat so I can either make the twin into a full (54" wide) or the seat into a twin. This will give me 1 twin and a seat, 1 full and a seat, or two twins. I still need to work out a few details...[/QUOTE]

I can see this...and working out a 'few details' !!

Getting to the outside will be GOOD!!

Look forward to Progress!

Enjoy,
Christopher
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:09 AM   #70
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Arrow And it goes On......

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Originally Posted by REDNAX View Post
How will the "trunk" fit into it? (And the changes to that room, wow!!)
Oh...the trunk....Yep that'll be coming soon for My Silver Streak too..

Nothin too major inside...gotta rebuild the trunk door though.

And it Goes On....and On....
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:53 PM   #71
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Quote:
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How will the "trunk" fit into it? (And the changes to that room, wow!!)
Hi Ross,

Always good to hear from you.

The trunk on my original rear sideways queen layout ran all the way across the trailer about a foot in from the outside trunk door and was 32 inches high topped with an oak trimmed formica shelf.

I plan on the same basic wall divider going across the trailer with a couple of modifications. Where the trunk wall will butt up against the twin bed I am going to leave a full 39 wide by 16 high opening in the wall under the bed so the trunk will reach in under the bed and the inside storage under the bed will extend into the trunk. This just gives versatility for putting large objects like lawn chairs in the trunk. It will be like a circus clown car, a small opening and a big cavity! LOL.

The other modification will be a 20 x 20 inch door in the dividing wall that will be at floor level and line up front to back with the main hallway. If I ever need to carry something really long (like an old beach umbrella, an extension ladder, or the camper's awning roller, 20+ft) then it can slide in the trunk go through the rear room and into the hall, all the way to the front of the camper if needed. I'm going to keep the height of the top shelf at around 32 inches so the existing curtains for the rear window are useable. I plan on topping the shelf with the 45 degree flooring as well.

I cannot reuse the original shelf because my curves in the rear corner with the new aluminum walls are are MUCH tighter radius than the paneling that was there. The original shelf was fit around the paneling radius and now I have a substantial gap on both ends if i place the original shelf in position.

My other "detail" that I am currently trying to figure out is how to design a foam mattress for soft enough to sleep on and stiff enough for sitting on. I am hopefull that I will get there somehow. I visited a local foam outlet and they let me stack up various sections of foam and sit and lay on them. So far, a "compromise" might be 2 inches of 3lb memory foam on top followed by a 1 inch layer of closed cell foam followed by a 3 inch layer of stiff 6 lb foam for foundation. As an alternate I might consider putting the 1 inch closed cell on the bottom and flipping the cushion for sitting. My main problem is that I want the memory foam on the sleeping surface and it compresses to nothing when sat on but feels great laying on.. Hmmm.. Decisions...
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:05 PM   #72
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June 9 Updates Rear Trunk Divider

Well they say the devil is in the details! The details seem to be taking 90% of the time but are making the difference.

I have been spending countless hours and countless rivets on constructing the rear wall that will separate the trunk compartment from the sleeping area. Finally, I have enough to show some progress. I am also getting to where I have to make the camper ready for a trip. we will be sleeping on a matress on the floor this time around. But if i'm lucky this weekend I will have the trunk compartment separated from the bedroom.

Here are some more pics.

Reinstalled hot water heater. This was a big accomplishment. Since it was installed I could now turn on the gas and water, de-winterize and test all appliances after a winter hibernation. Everything survived the winter and checked out!
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Constructing the rear divider. Used 3/4 channel and two aluminum skins and will insulate the middle space. Later I will cut in holes for outlets and switches.
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The bedroom side panel cut to fit. The three oval holes are cubbys which will have boxes behind them to make handy places to put things bedside like watch, cell phone, keys, glasses, wallet, etc. The big square hole will have a door screwed down over it and will be a pass through from the trunk to the interior. It lines up exactly with the hallway so very long items could be transported like an extension ladder or the main awning tube, beach umbrella, etc. The big rectangular cutout is going to give trunk access to under the bed and under the bed access to the trunk.
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Making the top shelf over the divider out of pine base wood with teak flooring topping to match 45 angle of the flooring in the camper.
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Bought a cheap sheetmetal brake to make the cubby boxes.
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2 cubby boxes done showing trunk side. Not so concerned with fit and finish on the trunk side.
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Showing inside of cubby box. Two are 6x6x12 and one is 6x4-1/2x12. The 3 cubby boxes took several days to make and fit and consumed 102 rivets combined with each rivet hand drilled, deburred and pop riveted in. It does not look like an excessive amount of rivets were used but they sure do add up!
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Standing in position in camper with foam insulation fitted. If I want to insulate the cubby boxes I will glue foam to the backsied insde the trunk. I'm going to wait and see if i need it. The trunk itself is insulated too.
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Face panel in position with black trim installed.
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Close up of the cubby with the trim. The wood shelf is going to top this partition.
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The dimensions of the partition and shelf are essentially the same as original. The big difference is the pass through option, the opening under the bed and the cubbys. All of these features combined make for a much more useable and versatile rear space.

I have bought upolstery fabric and I have a person sewing it up now. It will take about 2 weeks. Can't wait to post up pics. It sure feels good to just be able to pay someone to be doing something productive while i'm working on other stuff. Once I finish installing the partition and topping it with the shelf, installing the door this weekend I am going to quit on the interior and focus on getting the axles, brakes and wheels ready for my trip. Maybe if I have time I will paint the lower black section and the steps too. It will be a nice break to get off of the interior for a while!
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:14 PM   #73
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Great Ideas, and looking good!!
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Old 06-11-2011, 01:49 PM   #74
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Thanks,

Did you start a polishing thread? I like the results you are getting. I want to polish mine in a similar way. What ever you are doing it looks very good. How much time does it take to do a section?
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Old 06-11-2011, 03:36 PM   #75
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Yes, I started a thread, because a couple of folks seemed interested. I am not sure how to put a link to it here, but it is under polishing section of exterior threads. Its titled "my silver streak polishing project".

I have not actually timed how long it takes per section because I had to practice different techniques, tools, cleaner and polishes. Also, I have been a little too busy to work on it much. Got sidetracked with the tornados here last month. I did not have damage but friends an family did.

Anyway, I got to work on it some today, and will post a few more pics this evening. I think I have come up with a game plan . It will take little while, but it is gonig to be BEAUTIFUL and
different, especially for a Silver Streak.

Thanks,
Jerry
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Old 06-12-2011, 02:43 PM   #76
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Thumbs up De-anodizing and Polishing

Yes! I found your polishing thread. Keep it going. Excellent detail and information. I wil be wanting to try something like that with mine eventually. for now I have a few other projects that will come first

You did a lot in a short time considering. I am encouraged...
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Old 06-12-2011, 02:52 PM   #77
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More on Back Shelf and Trunk Partition

Here are some more photos of the trunk divider. I am pleased with the results so far.

Remaining projects for the back room.
- Make cover for the rectangular pass through hole.
- Frame in the twin bed and the seat on the opposite side.
- Make a table.
- Find two more light fixtures for the side walls. (I have prewired behind the walls)
- Mount Flat screen TV on wall.
- Install outlets, switches, courtesy lights on the divider wall.
- Caulk and seal trim on some of the edges.

Getting there!!

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Old 06-12-2011, 07:52 PM   #78
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I've been looking at these pictures over and over. I've not seen a trailer of any brand come up quite this way. The functionality and aesthetic are well-wed, and impressive.
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:11 PM   #79
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Wow!!!! That is really looking sharp!!!! Can't wait to see it finished. The floor looked fantastic when it was first installed, but it just looks better and better as other things come together..
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Old 06-15-2011, 10:42 PM   #80
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Hey, thanks. I'm working on the cover for the pass through hole then getting ready for a trip. Got a lot of cleaning out to do and still would like to get the brake drums off and cleaned up. I'll be back into it mid July to get the rear room finished off. I'm hoping to have my matress cushions next week. I'll post them up if I get them in time before my vacation.
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