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Jammer · 03-10-2012, 09:34 AM

Well gang it's not in hand yet but I have an agreement in place to purchase a C-11 in unusually good condition. It's a lengthy retrieval, over 500 miles one way, and I'm planning on making the trip two weeks from today. I've been watching for one for almost two years now.

I really like my 30' Airstream but there are a number of situations where it just doesn't work. The two main problems have been parking and ground clearance. I work in downtown St. Paul and there's no feasible way to park a 30' trailer within walking distance of my workplace, which complicates the sort of trips that originate at the end of the workweek. And while I haven't suffered any actual damage to the Airstream from a lack of ground clearance, there have been close calls, and some trips I've wanted to take but couldn't.

It's not Aluminitis. Really.

I have a longbed 3/4 ton pickup which also has served as a tow vehicle and which will carry the C-11. I started making preparations on it a year and a half ago, placing a 6-way electrical connector in the bed. I've just finished installing tiedowns on the truck frame, and have placed a rubber mat in the bed. I installed some stiffer rear shocks a while ago, and I'm replacing the rear tires with load range E tires for a stiffer ride to avoid lateral sway.

One of the advantages of truck campers is that there's no running gear, which should simplify the retrieval.

I'll post some pictures of the truck mods later and of the C-11 once I have it in hand.

dznf0g · 03-10-2012, 10:37 AM

Awesome, I love those campers. Will look forward to pics and all your "fix-up" and MODS!

Zeppelinium · 03-10-2012, 11:57 AM

If it's near Colorado I'll be glad to take it off your hands and save you a long trip...

Zep

Jammer · 03-12-2012, 06:35 AM

I've started with the tow vehicle mods.

Here are some photos of the brackets for the front tiedowns, underneath the front of the bed. They attach to the frame rails with 1/2" bolts. It took some drilling and also involved the relocation of the connector for one of the oxygen sensors.

Jammer · 03-12-2012, 06:47 AM

I'm modifying the truck's electrical system.

The late 1990s Chevrolet trucks came with an AD230 alternator. It's a well-designed alternator with a maximum output of around 100 amps, and will develop maybe 60 amps at idle. I'm planning to replace it with the AD244 alternator that was used a few years later as an option. It's a similar design but with a larger frame, which boosts the idle output to around 100 amps and the maximum to 140 amps. The mounts and connectors are identical but I'll have to change to a slightly larger serpentine belt.

The photo shows the DR44 in my Suburban, which is outwardly identical to the AD244 but has a cost-reduced diode bridge.

I'm also rewiring my dual battery setup. Most full-size pickups have factory provisions for a second battery, and the former owner of mine installed one or perhaps ordered it that way from the factory. The old wiring had them in parallel. I'm replacing one with a group 24 deep cycle, and will connect it to the electrical system through an isolation relay. Then it will be wired to the charge line to the camper, so it will work in parallel with the camper battery to provide 12v power.

I don't anticipate using shore power with this camper, at least not routinely. I'm not sure if it has a converter, since many were made without them. The truck will provide all the electricity.

dznf0g · 03-12-2012, 06:53 AM

Just a thought, and I don't know if it would physically fit without a lot of bracket mods, but the 2005 and prior Impala 9C1 (police squad) used a bosch alternator which put out 90% of it's available output at idle specifically for long accident scene idle times. IIRC, it was a 160amp max output.

EDIT: model year correction

Jammer · 03-12-2012, 07:22 AM

I installed the electrical connector in the bed two years ago when I put the trailer connector in place. The wires go along the left frame rail, up the driver's side between the inside and outside bed walls, and then across the front of the bed in the square section at the top of the bed, finally dropping down to the connector. Everything's spliced together with the trailer connector using solder and heat shrink, and the whole thing is encased in wire loom. The charge line and ground connection are six gauge.

You can also see the 1/2" thick rubber mat I bought at a farm store. It should help cushion and stabilize the C-11.

Jammer · 03-12-2012, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Just a thought, and I don't know if it would physically fit without a lot of bracket mods, but the 2005 and prior Impala 9C1 (police squad) used a bosch alternator which put out 90% of it's available output at idle specifically for long accident scene idle times. IIRC, it was a 160amp max output.

EDIT: model year correction

The Impala uses a T-mount rather than the dual-spool mount used on the trucks so it would be difficult to make it fit, requiring a custom bracket adapter. The Bosch is smaller than the AD244 and may have been used in the Impala because of space constraints. The amp ratings are similar. I show 125 amps for the Bosch.

Jammer · 03-12-2012, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jammer

The late 1990s Chevrolet trucks came with an AD230 alternator.

Correcting myself, it's a CS130D alternator that's stock in these. The AD230 wasn't used until 2000, I guess.

Jammer · 03-15-2012, 06:12 AM

The electrical modifications to my truck have proven to be more expensive and time consuming than I anticipated, no doubt a situation unique to the initial phases of this project that will not repeat itself

.

The auxiliary battery tray on the driver's side of the truck doesn't have enough vertical clearance for a group 24 deep cycle battery without cutting away part of one of the hood ribs. But the passenger side battery tray has just enough clearance. Unfortunately, the starter is on the passenger side, and the OEM cabling connects it to the passenger side battery. Nothing that $100 of copper and half a day in the garage can't fix.

I chose to switch from the OEM side terminal cables to more readily available top terminals for the starting (chassis) battery, and am using the threaded stud terminals on the camper battery so that it's obvious which is which to anyone working under the hood.

Jammer · 03-15-2012, 06:15 AM

Proper termination and correct use of tiedowns is critical with heavier gauge cable. It is also time consuming. I'm using 2 AWG welding cable for the larger amp runs. The lugs are all soldered and heat-shrinked, and supported by rubber-coated metal cable clamps at critical points. It's important to support the cables in a way that won't allow them to turn on the terminal posts, thus loosening the nuts.

Jammer · 03-15-2012, 06:23 AM

I've chosen to connect the camper battery to the alternator through a simple (albeit large) relay. In automotive parlance they're called continuous-duty solenoids. It turns on when the ignition is on. There are fancier electronic battery isolators out there, but they're expensive, especially for larger modern alternators, and in practice they don't work any better.

crispyboy · 03-15-2012, 06:27 AM

It sounds like you have a lot of the bases covered. The only other thing you may want to install is a heavy duty (larger diameter) sway bar on the rear truck axle.

Jammer · 03-15-2012, 06:28 AM

The camper/trailer wiring is pretty much unchanged since I installed it to use with my Airstream. It's just fed by the auxiliary battery now rather than the fuse block.

From left to right: the running lights relay, running lights breaker, trailer brake controller breaker, and charge line breaker.

I'm going to retain the towing capabilities even though the truck won't be able to tow my 30' classic while the camper is in the bed. Something lighter would be practical, like a boat trailer of modest size.

Jammer · 03-15-2012, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crispyboy

It sounds like you have a lot of the bases covered. The only other thing you may want to install is a heavy duty (larger diameter) sway bar on the rear truck axle.

Steve, I've been wondering about that. Hellwig bars seem to be awfully popular among the truck camper crowd. I upgraded the rear shocks to something fairly stiff a while ago but I realize that isn't a complete substitute. The camper is supposed to weigh around 1800 pounds dry and with the rounded edges I'm hoping it rides a little better in crosswinds than the white box brands.

Jammer · 03-15-2012, 06:37 AM

Here are some exterior photos supplied by the previous owner. There aren't any dents, and the clearcoat was reapplied at the Mother Ship (we're talking Cayo Repair Service in Benton Harbor, Michigan) about ten years ago. This is much of the reason I'm willing to pay top dollar and drive for two days to get this rig.

Jammer · 03-15-2012, 06:44 AM

Some interior shots provided by the previous owner.

The later C-11s have the Airstream-style spring loaded roof locker doors, an improvement visually and functionally over the squeeze latches and the magnets across the ceiling that Avion used in earlier campers.

This has the gravity furnace -- no blower required, works like a Panel Ray. There is a chance it may not work but I'm hoping that it's at least repairable.

It's hard to tell without better photos but I'm hoping that the cabinetry won't require refinishing right away.

Jammer · 03-15-2012, 06:49 AM

This has the pair of 5 gallon ASME propane tanks, so I guess I'll get to find out firsthand how much hassle it is to have these filled. In theory they don't require an OPD and never go out of certification but we'll see whether people who sell propane understand that.

I'm going to replace the regulator and pigtails right away.

Jammer · 03-15-2012, 06:53 AM

Last two interior shots. The PO had the toilet replaced with NOS three years ago, at which time the holding tank fiberglass was patched and the freshwater tank replaced.