How to clean an anodized aluminum skin?

[Sunni]

The previous owner of my '83 Silver Streak said that its skin is anodized aluminum, and therefore much easier to care for than the A/S aluminum and/or clearcoat. If so, that's a relief! But I'm not sure what the best way is to get the skin all prettified.

The previous owner (who inherited it when his father, the original purchaser, died) said that the best thing to use is automatic transmission fluid—apply with a soft cloth in one hand, and wipe away the excess with a soft cloth in the other. Has anyone else tried this? If not, what do you use on your S/S once it's clean to make it gleam? Does the gold-colored band need different treatment?

Also, while I'm here, what do you use and how do you safely move around on the roof to clean the plastic AC and vent covers? He'd never been on the roof, so it's been a while since they've been cleaned ... and it shows.

[utee94]

Hi Sunni, you might want to take a look at this thread and see if it's any help:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...eak-38863.html


You could also PM user "Rednax" who has a SS of his own and is a very nice and helpful person.

Good luck!

-Marcus

[Sunni]

Originally Posted by utee94

Hi Sunni, you might want to take a look at this thread and see if it's any help:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...eak-38863.html

Thanks! I don't know how I missed that thread when I searched on this subject.

You could also PM user "Rednax" who has a SS of his own and is a very nice and helpful person.

I have already made his acquaintance, and completely agree with your assessment.

[slowmover]

Thanks.

Surprised I missed this thread. Here's some more info on what I've done.

Two things to keep in mind. Yes, oven cleaner will de-anodize the aluminum, to be avoided. Other, is that in threads on cleaning A/S trailers, Andy (Inland RV) and others warn against using acid-based cleaners which may get underneath rivets and start or accelerate corrosion.

I have seen info by other S/S owners on the Net (webpages) where they have used ZEP and other commercial products.

My reading on anodized aluminum is essentially limited. A scrub brush is recommended (I have one I use for whitewall tires, not too stiff nor soft), and lot's of elbow grease.

The problem of trailers of this sort seems to be that the finish looks faded even after washing, it doesn't reflect light any more.

For the DIY portion of my cleaning I used, first, an ADJUST-A-BRUSH Adjust-A-Brush non-flow-thru; 10" head; with ordinary car wash soap from a parts store, and worked a good long time on the roof after doing the sides. I made it a point to never let the soap/water mixture dry. I washed from the bottom up, and rinsed from the top down using a medium spray setting on a garden hose.

The elbow grease got the worst of the bird and tree mess.

Second stage was the use of MARY KATE Aluminex "Clean & Shine". There are two versions of this product, and I used the one specified for painted and anodized aluminum. It is a buffered acid product.

Aluminex Clean and Shine Aluminum Cleaner

I bought this through WEST MARINE, two bottles. (A third and fourth would be necessary for the belly/bottom-side as the dirt build-up can be heavy).

I worked in small sections here, being careful around windows and other areas with non-metal components. Wet, apply, wait, scrub/wash and rinse.

My wife found this to be a noticeable difference, but, I should add, our business has been house renovation for some time and we are accustomed to noticing differences others may not. It isn't a bigger change, but from purchase, it is now "clean".

The second step was the testing of other chemicals from an industrial supplier on the other thread, above.

SABRE
p://eacochem.com/specs_sabre.shtml

I tested one bad area (top curve, trailer rear, port side) and the result was noticeable several days later. Seemed to have removed "film" other attempts did not.

I have not yet tried the Anodized Restoration Treatment, but it is marketed as a sort of short-time clear coat that is easily removed. I look at my sample container weekly, but am just too busy for this sort of work right now.

A.R.T.
| EaCo Chem Inc. | Anodized Restoration Treatment |

Ken Wilson, moderator on IRV2 is an S/S owner (an engineer) and has used Everbrite on his inherited (in-laws) 1979 S/S, and by report on the S/S Mailing List it is a good look (with the caution that he started with a very well maintained trailer).

How to Restore Metal, Protect Metal & Keep Metal Looking It's Best.

[slowmover]

Another reason I have held off on some of this involved cleaning, and "clear coat" is that I have yet to replace all of the vinyl rub trim and replace the underlying screws with stainless steel pieces. The trim is available easily, and the screws just need to be one size up from oem.

I have also not yet finished the clearance light replacement (with l.e.d. replacements, from truck stop; identical appearance), and have only done one of the two tail/reverse/stop lamp modules (remove, clean, re-paint, restore lenses -- a bit of a job -- and install ss screws).

I have some other replacement jobs underway, such as replacing the sewer hose and water hose compartment latches with ss marine pieces (haven't found any yet for front corner window travel covers), a re-seal of the awning attachments (upper; a known leak area; using vulkem or acryl-r I can't remember which), and I need to go over roof seams to remove sealer and replace with appropriate stuff.

Plus, I haven't gotten to the underside, need to rent a pressure washer and order a lot more SABRE to get after it, probably hire a helper to really scrub it. And need to re-paint black iron lpg line and finish soldering brake wiring.

Also, need to finish re-painting the frame where it is exposed, etc. (Hammerite aerosol, silver).

I may remove some of the beltline trim, scraper clean, and re-line with Eterna-Bond tape before screwing it back down.

I should also note that I have used several wax products (Metal Wax), and found that the difference is negligible, but it may be that it was easier to wash clean for several months.

metal wax.com

(Found this was a good product for other things around the house, and it is a quality manufactured product. Great directions and support. Be sure to get the metal cleaner with it (but, as an acid cleaner, I used to remove remaining clear coat on wheels and to polish up despite pitting).

[slowmover]

Have looked into the subject of (as a Google search)

how to clean "anodized aluminum"

and have found several architectural products (systems, actually) that may be of use:

Presto Resoration Products

Envirestore, and Metal Resurfacer

And

Willems America

Renu-Alu, and Pro-Alu

Both systems work together; one as cleaner/polisher, the other as a pore or scratch filler (these terms used lightly), the idea being to remove the pollutant layer on the first go-round, and the second to make things either matte shiny or clear by filling pits and other small, dulling surface imperfections.

Both, like the EaCo products above, will last about a year or three depending on where and how the trailer is stored, how often washed, how good it was to begin with.

[slowmover]

After cleaning, what to do, short of A.R.T. or a more permanent solution (clearcoat; see info on CAYO, the Avion service folks; and Inland RV about clearcoat prep and application)?

My 1983 Silver Streak Owners manual suggested using a bit of kerosene. I mixed up two coffee cans of equal parts synthetic ATF and kerosene to wipe down the entire trailer with an old clean rag (that was, along with the can, disposed of afterwards). The trailer must first be washed. The finish is a definite improvement, but tends to collect dust. I had no rain on mine, and the trailer sat in place, so the "finish" lasted about 6-weeks.

I have since come across two other bits of info:

The 1975 S/S my parents bought from HILLTOP RV south of Dallas some thirty-four years ago they kept until around 2002. That dealership, a recent post on the Toms' Web Page S/S Mailing List recounted a "recipe" used by them for over thirty years on Silver Streak trailers:

"So the question on cleaning; This formula was given to me by Hilltop RV in Red Oak Texas whom handled SS's for 30 years. The owners wife and son still operate in Red Oak.

His formula, which I have used for years and still is best cleaner I have
found is...

1 part olive oil and 5 parts lacquer thinner. I am careful not to get on
vinyl.

Just try it on a small area to see. It last about 6 weeks."



The third is from another thread on this forum discussing Avion trailers and their anodized surface:



"My 1972 and 1983 Avions were both anodized, and oxidation was a major "appearance" issue for every owner I ever knew. We all had ways to "cover" the streaking and fading, but no one ever totally solved the problem. I also was in the Avion Travelcade Club for 20 years, and that topic always came up. I called Cayo, who is the only major service location in the country specializing in Avions, and even called a metallurgical engineer in Texas about the oxidation. They all said it was inevitable, and to either keep it from new (I never could afford a new one) inside storage, or learn to live with it. I could make mine look almost new using WD-40, and several other products, but nothing lasted. I ended up just wiping it down with Dupont Tire Spray with Teflon. That seemed to last the longest, and was the least work. Some Avioners are experimenting with Par-Fe wax, but they are finding that although it lasts a long time, it still eventually fades, and the oxidation can be seen again. The metallurgical engineer told me it was a harmless chemical reaction, and to learn to live with it. Using a chemical to get it off was possible, but then you'd have to deal with corrosion issues of the aluminum. "

DUPONT TEFLON TIRE SHINE
DuPont™ Tire Shine with Teflon® surface protector
Leaves a clear, "wet look" shine on your tires that is completely dry to the touch. Teflon® surface protector leaves an invisible protective barrier to help repel new dirt, road grime and brake dust build-up
No greasy mess
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[slowmover]

Time to revive this thread as have had a few PM's asking advice. Others are solicited in adding to this. I'll be digging through files to give more umph to this thread.

.

[slowmover]

A thread from last year on this subject at the AVION Owners Group has some good ideas:

Dull Finish?

A bit of discussion,

Clean Iodised Frames - Page 3, about OneRestore (EacoChem).

I'm keeping hopes high on

OneRestore | Product Details | EaCo Chem


I'm curious about this one,

Ouator

as I've tried all the others for small area polishing (MAAS, etc).


.

[TinCanCookie]

We are looking at buying a Silver Streak (actually my husband is looking at it right now), and during my research I came across this web page.

Polish for a vintage Silver Streak trailer | Wade Maid Blog

Has anybody ever heard of this company? Used these products?

I'm finding this thread interesting as I was under the impression that anodized aluminum was easier to care for, but reading these posts has me wondering if it's more work. At least it doesn't involve a buffer!

[mrcjdunne]

Here's a link to a blog of a shell-off restore of a 1970 Sabre. He owns a small airfield in OK and had many types of metal cleaner / polish to test on his trailer.

1970 Silver Streak Sabre - Model 20

[mrcjdunne]

I just polished part of my trailer with Met-all cleaner/polish and it worked very well. Took a lot of the oxidation of and left a nice pearly satin finish. Very nice.

[mrcjdunne]

Here's a photo of some of my polishing with Met-All. I completed the curved window cover and the panel below it. Also a little circular patch on the front.
It seems to be doing a great job.

[SSSabre]

Looks real good. The anodized satin finish is very attractive when cleaned up.

[M2HB]

Originally Posted by mrcjdunne

Here's a photo of some of my polishing with Met-All. I completed the curved window cover and the panel below it. Also a little circular patch on the front.
It seems to be doing a great job.

It is looking great. What kind of rag did you use to polish it?

[68Streamline]

Great job on the anodized aluminum. Couldn't help but notice how good the gold trim looks. How did you clean that section?

[mrcjdunne]

Originally Posted by M2HB

It is looking great. What kind of rag did you use to polish it?

I started with a non-scratch scotch pad to apply the polish but discovered a terry towel worked jut as well. I buffed with a dry terry towel.

I will be getting an orbital buffer though. Hand buffing is tough work.

[mrcjdunne]

Originally Posted by 68Streamline

Great job on the anodized aluminum. Couldn't help but notice how good the gold trim looks. How did you clean that section?

I think the gold holds up better than the plain anodized. I scrubbed the gold trim with a stiff cleaning brush. I haven't polished that part yet.

[slowmover]

Looks good . . but "proof" is in how long it lasts (unfortunately). Try some alkaline cleaner on that spot to see about lasting results (if cleaning, not just waxing was the idea). I suppose we should all be clear about the difference between hiding stains/age and removing same.

Wholly agree about power tools. These things are way too big to do by hand.

.

[M2HB]

Originally Posted by mrcjdunne

I started with a non-scratch scotch pad to apply the polish but discovered a terry towel worked jut as well. I buffed with a dry terry towel.

I will be getting an orbital buffer though. Hand buffing is tough work.

Thanks for the info. I used some of that METALL aluminum polish and it works great. My Avion C-11 has been sitting in the AZ sun for close to 44 years and it has quite a bit of oxidation. It has never been cleaned that I know of, since it was new, and this polish brought it back to looking just like the day it was made. I am less than half way done and after doing about 1 sq foot I decided to buy a cheap ($20) 6" orbital polisher. That polisher makes it go real fast. I will have to finish the bottom some day when I take it off the trailer.