How to clean an anodized aluminum skin?

[mrcjdunne]

Nice to hear that Metall worked so well. I'll be continuing my cleaning/polishing soon. We just finished having a pad built for the trailer at our house and bring it out of storage in a few weeks.

[M2HB]

Here are some before and after pictures.
The top part hasn't been done yet.



The bed cabover part hasn't been done yet, but the bottom has.



The center area around the window hasn't been done yet, but the sides have been.


As you can see, MetAll makes a big difference.

[Galavanters]

Anyone know if MetAll or Eacochem A.R.T. Are available in Canada? Getting ready to polish up our travelux.

[slowmover]

Call EACO Chem in PA and ask about ONE RESTORE. They may have Canadian distribution.

Also, look for commercial building anodized restoration specialists. Anodized was used heavily from the 1930's forward.

[ventport]

How about removing rust stains? My 64 Avion has rust stains from the original clearance lights which have been replaced. The stains run down the sides from the lights.

[247stream]

wow, what a difference, came out great. I never knew that finish could look so good or that it was still a lot of work to have that finish!

[arhuranna]

Slowmover, do you have a part number for the LED clearance lights? I would like to replace mine also. I have used the Everbrite on the trunk door, has been on for about a year and still looks good. Bought enough to do the whole camper just need the time.

Mitch

[slowmover]

Clearance lights on a Silver Streak will vary with year-of-manufacture. Measure the distance between fastner holes and start with DOT-approved truck lighting from suppliers such as GROTE.

I don't know how long EVERBRITE will hold up, though it ought to be a few years if the TT is sheltered from UV when not in use. The pics I have seen make it attractive (TXIceman) had a nice example in his (since replaced) '79. Still, one ought to go to pains to clean mineral staining beforehand.

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[arhuranna]

That's the stage I'm at now. Have areas under the windows that are different color than surrounding aluminum. My front top rounded caps(not sure of correct term) are real splotchy. I also have many places that had bumper stickers that still show the outlines of the stickers. Will try to remove as best as possible before using anything to finish the aluminum. I also have rust stains from screws to deal with. Not complaining as I really enjoy working on the SS, just want to get it right the first time.

Mitch

[slowmover]

Read the info for ONE RESTORE (EaCo Chem) on their website.

Anodized is tough and you can use a stiff brush.

A buffered acid cleaner is a good start (mentioned above in an earlier post of mine as I worked on my '83; a MaryKate product through WEST MARINE safe for anodized). Ordinary car wash a good choice. I like an extended pole brush, also. Do the sides to some extent before the roof, then give the roof a good going over (wearing non-slip shoes). I wind a garden hose loosely around the A/C unit then work FF to RR. Replace roof vents/vent gaskets beforehand (and check to see if A/C mount cushion [gasket] leaks: best to replace that if unknown or past 5-years, IMO).

[Travelux 20]

Hi , I spoke to you before about Travelux trailers.I have a 20 ft one and need to find the VIN # somewhere on the trailer. I know there is supposed to be a sticker next to the door with that information but the sticker's gone on my trailer. Do you know of anywhere else on the trailer that I could possibly look? P.S. I also am polishing my trailer (by hand) I'm using Metal Polish - Polish Metal, Chrome, Aluminum, Brass, Plastic | California Custom Products Inc. along with the oxidizer. I like it and do a panel at a time. I am glad the trailer's only 20 ft long though! Thanks, Deb Cerrone

[slowmover]

Need to add to this thread.

When I bought the current Silver Streak (Xmas 2012) I stopped at two locations in two days at Blue Beacon Truck Wash. A 500-mile drive thru a little ice, a lot of slush and some snow. I don't know how many years previous owners had ignored it.

I sought the location manager (versus the line foreman who comes out to greet one in the waiting line) as concerns about having line pressure ONLY pointing downwards with wands was high (plus avoiding some vinyl lettering); and that I wanted two things:

- A two-step wash consisting of Alkaline before and after Acid application

- Manual brushing.

I wanted the most experienced guy on the Acid (line foreman).

This was a no problem request. The manager gathered the five man crew around and explained concerns.

The Acid was used primarily on the upper edge at the roof junction

Alkaline application beforehand, plus brushing, meant a minimal amount of Acid used, plus dwell time more easily controlled.

This removed a great deal of the mineral build up. Quickly and cheaply.

The other addition was to apply Rain-X to the entire trailer. Lasts a few weeks or a month or more depending on conditions.

I'd recommend this approach with any newly purchased trailer (or at anytime). These trailers always have a dirt film layer that is hard to remove. BB can. Otherwise one needs the power polisher as shown in pics earlier in thread.

BB has a lot of money in training and especially in chemical know how. Some of the fancy tractor trailer rigs you may see are worth well past a quarter million dollars, and the owners trust BB with the finish. (I have no opinion on independent truck washes; and these comments do not pertain).

The Mary-Kate buffered acid "Aluminex" is not as strong. A better choice when DiY. I am not recommending Hydrfluoric Acid as we commonly use in the truck industry.

The picture below doesn't illustrate this as well as I'd like, and it's after being in storage for many months two years later. But it does show an even finish. Not blotchy. I'd only been washing it with a high quality car soap every so often. (Pic was taken in Corpus Christi where I kept it 2.5-years).

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