How to clean an anodized aluminum skin?

[Sunni]

The previous owner of my '83 Silver Streak said that its skin is anodized aluminum, and therefore much easier to care for than the A/S aluminum and/or clearcoat. If so, that's a relief! But I'm not sure what the best way is to get the skin all prettified.

The previous owner (who inherited it when his father, the original purchaser, died) said that the best thing to use is automatic transmission fluid—apply with a soft cloth in one hand, and wipe away the excess with a soft cloth in the other. Has anyone else tried this? If not, what do you use on your S/S once it's clean to make it gleam? Does the gold-colored band need different treatment?

Also, while I'm here, what do you use and how do you safely move around on the roof to clean the plastic AC and vent covers? He'd never been on the roof, so it's been a while since they've been cleaned ... and it shows.

[utee94]

Hi Sunni, you might want to take a look at this thread and see if it's any help:

Cleaning Anodized Aluminum - Silver Streak


You could also PM user "Rednax" who has a SS of his own and is a very nice and helpful person.

Good luck!

-Marcus

[Sunni]

Originally Posted by utee94

Hi Sunni, you might want to take a look at this thread and see if it's any help:

Cleaning Anodized Aluminum - Silver Streak

Thanks! I don't know how I missed that thread when I searched on this subject.

You could also PM user "Rednax" who has a SS of his own and is a very nice and helpful person.

I have already made his acquaintance, and completely agree with your assessment.

[REDNAX]

Thanks.

Surprised I missed this thread. Here's some more info on what I've done.

Two things to keep in mind. Yes, oven cleaner will de-anodize the aluminum, to be avoided. Other, is that in threads on cleaning A/S trailers, Andy (Inland RV) and others warn against using acid-based cleaners which may get underneath rivets and start or accelerate corrosion.

I have seen info by other S/S owners on the Net (webpages) where they have used ZEP and other commercial products.

My reading on anodized aluminum is essentially limited. A scrub brush is recommended (I have one I use for whitewall tires, not too stiff nor soft), and lot's of elbow grease.

The problem of trailers of this sort seems to be that the finish looks faded even after washing, it doesn't reflect light any more.

For the DIY portion of my cleaning I used, first, an ADJUST-A-BRUSH Adjust-A-Brush non-flow-thru; 10" head; with ordinary car wash soap from a parts store, and worked a good long time on the roof after doing the sides. I made it a point to never let the soap/water mixture dry. I washed from the bottom up, and rinsed from the top down using a medium spray setting on a garden hose.

The elbow grease got the worst of the bird and tree mess.

Second stage was the use of MARY KATE Aluminex "Clean & Shine". There are two versions of this product, and I used the one specified for painted and anodized aluminum. It is a buffered acid product.

Aluminex Clean and Shine Aluminum Cleaner

I bought this through WEST MARINE, two bottles. (A third and fourth would be necessary for the belly/bottom-side as the dirt build-up can be heavy).

I worked in small sections here, being careful around windows and other areas with non-metal components. Wet, apply, wait, scrub/wash and rinse.

My wife found this to be a noticeable difference, but, I should add, our business has been house renovation for some time and we are accustomed to noticing differences others may not. It isn't a bigger change, but from purchase, it is now "clean".

The second step was the testing of other chemicals from an industrial supplier on the other thread, above.

SABRE
p://eacochem.com/specs_sabre.shtml

I tested one bad area (top curve, trailer rear, port side) and the result was noticeable several days later. Seemed to have removed "film" other attempts did not.

I have not yet tried the Anodized Restoration Treatment, but it is marketed as a sort of short-time clear coat that is easily removed. I look at my sample container weekly, but am just too busy for this sort of work right now.

A.R.T.
| EaCo Chem Inc. | Anodized Restoration Treatment |

Ken Wilson, moderator on IRV2 is an S/S owner (an engineer) and has used Everbrite on his inherited (in-laws) 1979 S/S, and by report on the S/S Mailing List it is a good look (with the caution that he started with a very well maintained trailer).

How to Restore Metal, Protect Metal & Keep Metal Looking It's Best.

[REDNAX]

Another reason I have held off on some of this involved cleaning, and "clear coat" is that I have yet to replace all of the vinyl rub trim and replace the underlying screws with stainless steel pieces. The trim is available easily, and the screws just need to be one size up from oem.

I have also not yet finished the clearance light replacement (with l.e.d. replacements, from truck stop; identical appearance), and have only done one of the two tail/reverse/stop lamp modules (remove, clean, re-paint, restore lenses -- a bit of a job -- and install ss screws).

I have some other replacement jobs underway, such as replacing the sewer hose and water hose compartment latches with ss marine pieces (haven't found any yet for front corner window travel covers), a re-seal of the awning attachments (upper; a known leak area; using vulkem or acryl-r I can't remember which), and I need to go over roof seams to remove sealer and replace with appropriate stuff.

Plus, I haven't gotten to the underside, need to rent a pressure washer and order a lot more SABRE to get after it, probably hire a helper to really scrub it. And need to re-paint black iron lpg line and finish soldering brake wiring.

Also, need to finish re-painting the frame where it is exposed, etc. (Hammerite aerosol, silver).

I may remove some of the beltline trim, scraper clean, and re-line with Eterna-Bond tape before screwing it back down.

I should also note that I have used several wax products (Metal Wax), and found that the difference is negligible, but it may be that it was easier to wash clean for several months.

metal wax.com

(Found this was a good product for other things around the house, and it is a quality manufactured product. Great directions and support. Be sure to get the metal cleaner with it (but, as an acid cleaner, I used to remove remaining clear coat on wheels and to polish up despite pitting).