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04-09-2014, 09:54 AM
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#21
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
NFA
, Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 38
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yeah for sure, pm me your address!
Ganaraska,
I am saving the cupboards for you, and the fridge. I will be reusing the stove! I also have the bathtub and bathroom and kitchen sink if you want. make me an offer
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04-09-2014, 10:39 AM
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#22
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Rivet Master
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood
, Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 12,111
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Love the International Travel-All and the GM wagon. Is it a Chevy?
__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
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04-12-2014, 03:49 PM
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#23
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1972 Travelux Princess 25
Cobourg
, Ontario
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,059
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That's great, thank you for remembering. I can use the cupboards that go above the fridge, someone cut them out to put in an oversize fridge.
__________________
Living in the trailer park of sense, looking out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
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04-14-2014, 09:12 PM
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#24
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
NFA
, Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony
Love the International Travel-All and the GM wagon. Is it a Chevy?
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good eye! I'm not sure what the wagons are but the last page is def an international. Would be an amazing vehicle to find!
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04-27-2014, 09:26 AM
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#25
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
NFA
, Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 38
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The fridge and cupboards are out now, do you want to pick them up? I am on the east end of Toronto!
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04-30-2014, 08:30 PM
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#26
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
NFA
, Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 38
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ANTS! (but no uncles)
Oh man. its pretty bad!!! So last weekend I pretty much gutted the trailer completely, but left the front pull out bed so that I could continue living in her. today, I brought an old shitty ikea futon that I had in storage into the back of the trailer, and ripped out the front end.
The plywood subfloor was looking pretty good, until I got to the front. I took out the fridge and realized right away that there was some floor rot. I assumed it was because the fridge was leaking, but I actually believe Know that it is from the vent above the fridge as I went in yesterday during a big rain and found out that it was leaking straight down to the floor.
So as I peeled off the laminate and then the 1/8" ply that was laid by the previous guy, I discovered an INSANE amount of ants. I ran back to my shop and got my blow torch out (haha) and started going to town. I checked the time and saw home depot was still open so I sped over there and bought 4 different types of ant killers. I am now down to the ply sub floor and think that I have taken control of the ant problem.
One thing that I noticed is that the seam where the sheets of the plywood meet in the middle seems to have some water damage (in the middle of the trailer). Does anybody know why that would be? It isn't wet but it seems like it def has been and the screws are all rusted along that line.
Am I going to have to do a shell off on this piece of work?
Secondly, I have been debating with myself since the weekend wether I remove the interior skin or not. the location of the outlets and where the wires for speakers etc poke out does not really work out with the new layout.... Is this going to be worth the effort? what have other people used to replace the interior skin? My metal guy says that a sheet of sheet metal with a coloured finish runs about $30... I am game to do the work just feel a little overwhelmed.... ANY ADVICE?
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04-30-2014, 09:55 PM
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#27
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4 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Terrace
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 348
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Run while you still have your sanity and your wallet....just kidding.
The screws out in the middle will rust without a leak.
You don't have to do a shell off.
You can do a shell on. There on many threads on replaced the ply with the shell on. You do it in sections I believe.
I would remove the lower skins.
The bottom c channel is screwed to the floor, so in order to get the ply out you first have to wrestle out those screws.
I got to warn you though it is going to be a can of worms!
It is not for the faint of heart!
I would spend sometime searching the forums. Many great threads on the subject!
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07-02-2014, 10:26 PM
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#28
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
NFA
, Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 38
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Oh man!
So, like a broken record, I will say what I have read on so many other threads; I barely have time to work on this beautie and so am tip toeing along!
I've been living in the trailer since January and when we finally got our spring thaw, noticed an interesting smell! Upon further inspection I discovered some floor rot. I pulled everything out and have finally taken all of the interior shell and original insulation out!
Plan is to pull the shell off tomorrow or this weekend, replace the subfloor and fix anything that needs a fixing on the frame and then get going on the rebuild finally!
Will keep you all updated!
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
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07-27-2014, 10:12 AM
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#29
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
NFA
, Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 38
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Shell off
Well, its finally happened. One of the biggest steps have now been over come. I popped the shell off of the frame so that I can replace the subfloor!
I ended up building a frame out of 6x6 for the lift, and braced the ribs with 2x4
On another note, one of my friends brought his airstream to my shop so that he can also do a shell off once mine is done. beautiful little trailer
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07-27-2014, 11:00 AM
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#30
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Site Team
1964 26' Overlander
1964 19' Globetrotter
OlyPen
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,935
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That's one awesome looking project! The skin on that trailer looks like it's in great shape
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08-05-2014, 09:42 AM
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#31
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
1978 Travelux President 31'
, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 25
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Hey Alex, sent you a PM a couple days ago. Any possibility for my request for this fellow President owner?
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08-09-2014, 11:07 PM
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#32
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
NFA
, Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 38
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Today was a very good progress day.
I pulled the frame out from the shell, which was supposed to be an easy thing to do. I built my lift out of 6x6 x 10' and I really wish I would have used 12 footers instead. I managed to lift the shell an extra 3" to give me a 14" opening, but once I started to pull it out, realized the gap became inadequate by a few inches to pull out directly. I had to take all the air out of the tires and gained the room I needed, and was then able to pull it out.
I pulled 6 of the 7 (rotted) sheets of plywood off of the frame and to my surprise, the frame is still in very good shape. Tomorrow morning I will be pulling out the last sheet, and then start to lay the new subfloor with hopes of being able to put the shell back on. I kept the front and back sheets (mostly intact) as templates too. For my new subfloor, I will be using MDO, which is an exterior plywood that is used for making signs. only problem is that I believe that I still have to seal the edges of the ply which I was trying to avoid. I was going to buy marine grade ply, but my hardware store guy told me that this was just as good and about $20 less a sheet.
So, because I suck at searching this forum, can somebody please point me to a post that talks about appropriate subfloor alternatives? I was also trying to find somewhere that had any information on removing the ac unit and how to seal that hole at the top where it once laid.
I was also wondering about grey water tanks. I will be removing my black water tank since I will be putting a natures head in there, and was considering putting two grey water tanks. what are the advantage disadvantages of this, is it better to have just one? should I put a clean water holding tank?
No pictures today unfortunately because it started to get dark as I was finishing up, but I will flood you guys tomorrow!
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08-09-2014, 11:11 PM
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#33
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
NFA
, Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 38
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another thing I was wondering about was rear end separation. is it a real thing? My friend was arguing with me today that the shell actually helps tie the whole thing together and I really don't want to give him that victory. what am I looking for in rear end separation and whats the best way to fix it? I have access to two different welders so if it needs to be done, it can.
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08-09-2014, 11:42 PM
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#34
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4 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Terrace
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 348
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It is a "real thing" ... it happens when the shell stops holding the frame up.
The frame pulls away from the shell because of insufficient structure.
If your trailer is the same as mine there is no "rear hold down plate". There was just the floppy floor channel screwed down( most of the screws on mine had pulled through). I bolted angle aluminum through the ply to the frame then riveted it to the shell.
If I had to do it again I would look into how some of the early airstreams were done. They had a plate that was welded to the frame and then riveted to the shell.
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08-10-2014, 04:58 PM
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#35
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
NFA
, Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 38
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Found this pack of cigarettes in the insulation... First hint of the year! Those packs were in production between 76-78
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
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08-12-2014, 07:30 PM
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#36
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
1978 Travelux President 31'
, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 25
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Thanks Alexdubs very much for a close up look at the process. Has given me ideas on how to proceed with mine. (Somewhat ) Good to see pic of frame. Take pics of every chapter for all newbies. Important document. Talk soon!
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08-12-2014, 11:53 PM
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#37
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4 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Terrace
, British Columbia
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 348
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Great progress! Way to dive right in.
Your pics are making me wish I had pulled my shell off! What a solid frame eh? Well built with quality steel.
Airstream should take notes. Lol
Jon
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08-17-2014, 09:22 PM
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#38
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
NFA
, Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 38
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hahahaha!! thats right! there was literally only one stress crack on the frame, out by where the washroom was. Just got my guy to weld it up today, and then sprayed the whole frame with an underbody rubberized spray.
Today, I also did the shittiest job (no pun intended). I have been putting off emptying the grey and black water tank, debating if I should just get a port-o-potty guy to come pump it out or not... but decided to do it myself. Emptied both of them in three rounds using a bucket and going straight to the washroom and flushing it down. Not a very pleasant job, but glad its done. Removed the two tanks and scrapped them, and found out my welder had a ss potable water tank off of an older boat. Its almost the right size for the opening, but its 12" tall as opposed to the 5" original one. My bed will be pretty much exactly where that tank is and will be raised, so the tank will sit within the trailer!
Now I just gotta figure out what I am doing for grey water tank. I wrote down the dimensions but don't have them with me haha. Can anybody recommend anywhere in Toronto that I can get a a tank made or just purchase one off the shelf? other option is just to get my guy to build me one from scratch...
I apologize again for the lack of pictures..
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08-18-2014, 09:33 PM
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#39
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
NFA
, Ontario
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 38
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Alright folks, made some more progress. I cut 5 of the 7 subfloor panels! I used the old front and back pieces as templates and then started going to town!
I started to lay it out temporarily and it fits like a glove!
Now I just need to sort out the grey tank and I will be able to put new insulation throughout and hopefully get the shell back on in the next few weeks.
Second round of questions:
- where can I get fantastic fan(I think that's what they are called) for affordable? I want the ones with all the bells and whistles (remote, reversible and rain sensor) and fear having to pay $300 each (although it is worth it)
My crazy brain:
So the ss tank that I got for potable water, I had a crazy idea. Since it will be sticking about 6-7" above the subfloor beneath my bed, I was wondering what people thought about somehow heating the water in the winter time and somehow producing geothermal heat. Has this ever been done? I will try to do a sketch at some point if I am not being too clear.
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
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08-19-2014, 07:48 PM
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#40
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
1978 Travelux President 31'
, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 25
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If you plan on keeping water in tank all winter you will need a heat source of some type to prevent freezing. Need to keep that plugged in at all times. I think of the flat heaters for waterbeds they were a low draw but how much energy would that draw all winter?
So toilet removed permanently and no blackwater tank?
Venting stack for toilet/blackwater is at back of roof. Mine has a second stack on shower side not sure if it is for that or not. Would love to see original owners manual on all those details.
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