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Old 07-02-2012, 03:41 PM   #29
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I did not know about this annodizing, I am looking into this, I thought I could polish mine too!
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Old 07-03-2012, 09:14 AM   #30
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Oh, you can strip it. I never would. I've no desire to create work (annual, constant, painful) by having removed a diamond-hard coating that is stained. "Glow" versus "shine" is great in my book.

There is at least one thread on anodized "restoration" around here (to which I've contributed, but am too tired today [about to go to work] to look for. The topic needs research, and -- as with so many other threads on this site -- group efforts lead to new understandings or practices that benefit all of us.

The OP can have a better looking trailer short of stripping and polishing. How much better is the only question. I promise (my experience) that as with interior cleaning, exterior cleaning is a definite step in the right direction.

Take it for granted that no one has ever cleaned the exterior in any meaningful fashion.

Otherwise, go to HueytownALS thread on stripping/polishing his Silver Streak. First, however, I want you to do a square foot take-off of how much anodized aluminum the trailer exterior consists: top, bottom, sides and ends. IMO, that should stop the strip/polish idea in it's tracks.

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Old 07-04-2012, 12:28 AM   #31
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Thanks- I think I'll take your word for it Rednax. It's a trailer with dents & imperfections - kinda like me. It will get dented again, because I'm towing it. LOL

It only adds to the charm and character. Besides that, I won't care if it gets scratched. I just bought a 10year old truck to tow it with. It has scratches and I like that feature simply for the peace of mind factor & that's what I'm going for. No stress, freedom & the ability to my enjoy life.

So it's a blessing not being able to polish it. That's how I see it.
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:38 AM   #32
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So it's a blessing not being able to polish it. That's how I see it.

Unquestionably, the exterior of an old VK [vintage kin] trailer can have it's appearance improved. The roof is nearly always a source of embedded dirt.and once cleaned off the sides are easier to deal with. Same for underside (talk about dirty).

But it is in the small things that overall appearance can be improved: A/C covers can be painted to more closely match the skin color (see S/S brochure covers circa 1979), plumbing vents can be replaced with some VTS pieces, skylights with smoked double pane custom (see thread around here), clearance lights with new LED replacements (or, some well-chosen "retro" appearing ones), nameplates replaced (usually a custom order), belt line rub rail replaced, frame extensions for tonque and bumper re-painted (plus new chains, breakaway, etc), propane tanks can usually take a good cleaning, maybe a mild polish; gold anodized trim can be touched up with paint.

I'd say that the biggest appearance improver would be an upgrade to 16" wheels/tires (after suspension & brake rebuild or upgrade to disc) where new wheels are coated and waxed. The wheelwells can/should be painted (after inspection/repair) and painting stabilizers the same.

Glass is usually in need of help. I won't recommend to others the muriatic acid I use, but acetone (carefully used) will also remove years of grease/dirt. Glass wax afterwards.

Of course, awnings in a complementary fabric color choice will add greatly (even rolled up).

Etcetera.

Elbow grease and tender loving care really do make a difference. I must have "washed" my last S/S five or six times in the first few months of ownership trying different anodized-recommended tools, supplies, chemicals . . there was a difference. I also did the above. It was a nice appearing trailer to begin with, yet (as with pics in sig link) it did "clean up nicely".



.
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:22 PM   #33
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Thanks for all your help Rednax. Your trailer looks beautiful. I'd be happy if I could get mine to look that good.

I found a thread you contributed to with some good info also. I found if I search " polishing a 1970 Streamline ", many links come up. Some not so helpful and there will always be some Air Forum links. Better results that searching in this search tab here it seems.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f417...kin-42902.html

I've bookmarked several products. Like you said though...there's exterior work to do before we can start washing like replacing lights.

I have a few more questions for you.

1. I'm looking for a source to buy the narrow gold anodized trim. Some of mine is missing. Luckily I found a piece of it under the bed inside the trailer but I still need more. Any ideas where to find it?

2. I want to put new flooring in my trailer but it seems to do the job correctly, I'd need to remove all the interior pieces. Is that what you did? It would make sense to do that since the old nasty vinyl is under everything. what a lot of work but I'm sure it would be worth it when it's done right.

Also, I decided to keep the original interior except I am going to paint everything except the faux wood, could change my mind about painting that too. Don't be mad at me if I do OK? I'm picky & I'll be living in it. I'll use special paint that adheres to plastic I suspect. And I did try cleaning the off-white areas, cabinets, etc & they still look faded yellow & dirty. The bathroom end cap is a different plastic, it's smooth & it looks good the way it is. I can imagine painting that would look weird. The other areas are textured and the metal cabinets absolutely need paint inside & out.

( more photos I took today )

The outside access doors are locked & I don't have a key. : (
I did order a new cylinder for my door lock so I'll be able to lock it soon.
You think someone would be able to restore the "Duchess" ? See the "D" is missing. I know Tom has the Streamline emblems.
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:25 AM   #34
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As to locked doors. Probably a thread on that around here. RV locks are fairly simple and common. A locksmith could get into them fairly quickly, and RV catalogs have replacement parts.

As to lettered exterior trim: A sign shop could probably order something up. Tom P would be the one to ask, and I know there is info on the SS Mailing List about this (plastic lettering).

I don't know about the anodized trim. I have bookmarked several pages in re interior trim, but have not had to find this for the exterior. This is where owning an "orphan" trailer built in low numbers may require ingenuity, patience, etc.

Next, the pic of mine shows the "glow" of clean and with the lacquer thinner/olive oil wipedown (that lasts through a few rain showers). Close up, it wasn't as nice as the pic might lead one to believe. But it was much nicer than when I started.

Forgive my being emphatic about "a vehicle is original only once" as I've seen too many badly considered "renovations" where some elbow grease and brain power would have produced a better result. These are my opinions only, after all, and you are kind to consider my words at all. I spent more time when buying houses and readying them for sale on PO "renovations" than on old but well worn trim, hardware, etc. My "madness" isn't directed at anyone (you), but at the assumption that we (any of us) can so easily do better than those whose careers were involved in these details for Streamline.

As to cleaning those surfaces: TSP or TSP substitute used? CASTROL Super Clean another choice. I use a three bucket system, and it takes several days to wipe down everything (without special attention to highly used items, e.g., shower, sinks, oven, etc). Most folks assume they know how to clean. I learned I did not in the way of working with chemical cleaners (and I've worked in the field of specialty chemicals) as there are no shortcuts (as TV would have us believe) that those doing the work advised me to slow down, ask questions, and be patient. Etc.

I understand about living in one as it is what I am doing. Painting is the heart of the problem as the factory could spray and achieve a great finish. Even to come close to that would be a helluva undertaking which is why I've pushed hard on cleaning and more cleaning. There is such a thing as touch up paint after all, and the wife and I used this approach on a couple of houses. Not perfect, but not meant to be. Once furnished this "deficiency" was not really noticeable. And paint matching is very good these days (I use Sherwin-Williams, never H-D, Lowes, etc, for paint. An independent store would be good also). Really, an automotive painter would be the one to work with for best results. But be prepared for a hellacious amount of prep work.

I'm first to agree that "fake wood" might be replaced. But dont' knock "fake" . . it's lasted for over forty years. Let's not any of us assume that we can match must less exceed the fit & finish achieved by a factory especially when our "problem" is with color (in the main). Colors are like feelings, they come and go. It might all of it be replaced, but at a pretty fair expense. 5-digit expense.

As to flooring, no, I wouldn't consider removing cabinetry. There may be a "solution" (paint, another layer of vinyl) to cover the old flooring, but it may be more trouble than it is worth.

These were expensive trailers. And those interiors were in no wise cheap then or now. Trying to give it the look the factory would today is (as above) more a matter of color changing than anything else. A lot of work for very little result as tastes around colors change every so often. When I work with what I have at hand (to complement and contrast) the results are easier on the pocketbook as the original fit and finish isn't altered. Changing color with a resulting lowered standard of fit/finish is the wrong direction/result, IMHO. There are intermediate steps, would be the point of all this.

.
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Old 07-05-2012, 03:29 PM   #35
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Could someone please identify the lights and fuse piece for me (I think) so I can order new ones?

Fuse piece is low right hand side near hitch. Do you know where I can find this? VTS maybe...I don't see it but I can send an email to them.

Is the rear high up some type of light marker light? Wish I would have got a closer photo of this.

thanks
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:56 PM   #36
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I believe the cover is just like the running lights. Very commom.
As far as trim, I'll doubt you find any. It's the same product as an aluminum door kick plate that is gold anodize. I have installed hundreds of these in years past. Try to find that product and it make take several pieces to get what you need or buy a panel and cut in strips then find some way to put the detail in it. Not easy. As far as I know, nobody makes gold anodized storm doors anymore.
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:09 PM   #37
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I wonder if this could be used and painted gold. Thanks for reminding me it's the same as aluminum screen door kick plate material.

Order Aluminum 3003 Sheet in Small Quantities at OnlineMetals.com
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:13 PM   #38
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I think that is it. Ask if they have it i gold anodized.
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Old 07-06-2012, 09:21 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by silverwoman View Post
Could someone please identify the lights and fuse piece for me (I think) so I can order new ones?

Fuse piece is low right hand side near hitch. Do you know where I can find this? VTS maybe...I don't see it but I can send an email to them.

Is the rear high up some type of light marker light? Wish I would have got a closer photo of this.

thanks
Is the initial shot and the ones accompanying of the same light?

If this is a "scare" light (turned on from interior near door; with locations on each trailer side) then there are quite a few replacements that, though not exact in appearance, should be so in terms of size and general shape. An LED replacement is recommended (and not just from RV houses, but marine, truck, etc that may provide a good "look". See: etrailer, GROTE, Eastern Marine, and some of the LED threads on this site for other sources.)

There are even LED motion sensor style RV lights to fit these areas (if the look appeals).

All of the marker/clearance lamps (amber & red near roofline, front, rear and sides; top & bottom) should be replaced with new LED pieces. Cheap, near-to-zero amp draw, far brighter and last about forever. Take basic measurements and work from there. The marker lamps can be set up to be lit for a party, to help others find your campsite in dark, etc (not just when hooked up to tow vehicle).

The tail/turn signal lamps may require more work to upgrade (shape & size). Pics and dimensions when you get to that.

LED exterior lighting is a basic & distinct safety upgrade all around.

.
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1990 35' Silver Streak Sterling; 9k GVWR.
2004 DODGE Cummins 305/555; 6-manual; 9k GVWR.
Hensley Arrow. 12-cpm solo, 19-cpm towing (fuel)
Sold: Silver Streak Model 3411
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Old 07-07-2012, 01:41 AM   #40
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The initial shot that has fuses in it is near the hitch on the lower right hand side. Do you know what that is? Is it a light with no bulbs? Why do they look like fuses?

The other shots are different lights. I'll take better photos tomorrow & I'll check out the suppliers you mentioned. Thanks!
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Old 07-09-2012, 06:54 PM   #41
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I'm going to guess that may be fusing for the running lights . . it would a handy place to check them. Period brochures showing this fixture would be of help in determining if factory original. Same for electrical schematic or diagram (not always year specific).
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Hensley Arrow. 12-cpm solo, 19-cpm towing (fuel)
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:33 PM   #42
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They are indeed the fuses for running lights. The cover is the same.
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