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Old 02-17-2013, 01:38 PM   #1
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'64 Sabreman

Kin,

It's been almost a year since acquiring my 1964 Silver Streak Sabre and love it I do.

I've made one trip so far. Dragged out to West Texas for a week last October. The maiden voyage went off without a hitch... Except for the little piece of the Bowen door that blew off on the way back home. I think that is almost ready to fix. Plotting my next jaunt for late April. Same destination.

Aside from various bits of riveting that needs to be done - nothing critical - I've got a leaking Valterra knife gate valve. After reading posts from others with similar problems I see there are numerous ways to attempt a remedy. I'll begin those this afternoon and see if they work. If not then it's up on blocks for my first run at pealing the hide back to get access.

Newby questions. Can I jack 'er up by the back bumper? I currently have it on shorter blocks on designated places along the frame underneath. It would be handy if I could jack from the back bumper to slip in the extra blocking.

Also, I could use recs on the right riveting tool and rivets.

Thoughts and thanks. It's great to be here.

gail
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:25 AM   #2
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I would not attempt to lift the trailer using the bumper. The material is not substantial enough to support the weight. I would lift at the axle mounts, or pull the trailer up on ramps.

What type of rivets will you be working with, solid or pop rivets?
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:00 AM   #3
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Ditto the suggestion that you not use the bumper as a lift point. If you currently have blocks under the frame then why not use the same jack placement points that were used for the initial lift?

The axle mounting plates would be my recommendation.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:28 AM   #4
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Axle mounts it is. Thanks.

At present I wouldn't know the difference between solid or pop in the rivet dept.

What I have are a few places underneath where rivets have failed leaving loose spots. Nothing huge or sweeping across the whole trailer but need to be addressed in time. Additionally, if the remedies from previous posts for fixing my leaking dump valve prove ineffective, I will likely need to peel back some skin around it to gain access. So, "Onward through the fog" and thanks for the help.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:06 PM   #5
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The belly skin is held to the crossmembers with 1/8" diameter pop rivets, whereas your shell is mostly constructed with solid rivets.

You can pick up standard pop rivets and a puller at most hardware stores. Try to get an aluminum rivet with an aluminum shank. If the holes in your belly skin are worn or oversize, you may consider a larger diameter pop rivet, or one with an oversize head.

Pics of standard and oversize head pop rivets are below.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:24 PM   #6
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I made some flat washers out of some fiber glass sheeting. Sandwiched the fiberglass washer and a fender washer (a large washer with a small hole) the fiberglass washer contacts the belly skin. The fender washer contacts the rivet head. Upsized to 3/16" x 1/2" all aluminum pop rivets to make the repair. The fiberglass washer insulates the fender washer and prevents electrolysis. The washers are about 1 1/2" in diameter.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:32 PM   #7
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Depending on the layout of the Black Water piping. You may be able to install another dump valve down stream from the existing valve, then just leave the old one open. If the body of the old valve is leaking you have a replacement job in the future.
If it is accessible, and not leaking too severely. You could wrap it with absorbent material (like a diaper) to get you thru to a permanent fix date.
Just some thoughts.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:23 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
I made some flat washers out of some fiber glass sheeting. Sandwiched the fiberglass washer and a fender washer (a large washer with a small hole) the fiberglass washer contacts the belly skin. The fender washer contacts the rivet head. Upsized to 3/16" x 1/2" all aluminum pop rivets to make the repair. The fiberglass washer insulates the fender washer and prevents electrolysis. The washers are about 1 1/2" in diameter.
This is a really interesting idea. But won't the aluminum rivet still be touching the steel frame causing a reaction? Doesn't the rivet also touch the skin at the hole?

We have some corrosion issues that I would like to fix someday so I like this idea.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:04 AM   #9
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Yes, the aluminum rivet does contact the steel frame. But the area is small and easily replaced if it fails. The belly pan is a whole other story. When A$ built these trailers, they apparently used a steel washer behind the rivet head. Thus the dime sized hole in the belly pan after years of interaction between the washer and the belly pan. The belly pan lost the battle.
If one were to use just a fender washer against the belly pan. Eventually the dime sized hole would become the size of a silver dollar. Then short of replacing the belly pan. What do you do?
The fiberglass won't interact with either metal. So that was my idea of avoiding replacing a relatively good belly pan because of a number of dime size holes.
Since the rivet is smaller than the dime size hole in the belly pan, there is not contact. Besides that, the rivet and belly pan are both aluminum there would be little if any interaction.
Also, the larger diameter washer provides a greater area of support for what already is a somewhat thin and flimsy belly pan.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:03 PM   #10
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I didn't realize you were trying to save what you have. That totally make sense. Ours might be beyond small holes, I will check again this weekend.
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