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Old 02-04-2016, 07:17 AM   #21
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Yes "travelux1969" is correct. The plywood flooring is an integral function to supporting the body shell.
When removing my floor I supported the body shell with 2x4 framing as I removed the plywood to keep the skin tight and to be able to insert the new plywood between the frame and body again. Once the old plywood was out, I ground off any screws that went through the C channel into the frame to make it a smooth install for the new ply. After the new plywood flooring was installed new screws were put back into the C channel to attach the shell to the frame again.
Not saying this is the way it is to be done, it's just how I tackled it.
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Old 02-06-2016, 09:55 AM   #22
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Manual

OK, so I finally got around to finding the documentation that came with my Travelux. First off is the owner's manual. This has the wiring diagrams and electrical part numbers included, so that's handy.

TraveluxManual.pdf
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Old 02-06-2016, 11:49 AM   #23
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And now the heater manual:

Suburban Dynatrail Furnace Manual
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Old 02-06-2016, 01:23 PM   #24
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[QUOTE=gehrhardt;1745816]OK, so I finally got around to finding the documentation that came with my Travelux. First off is the owner's manual. This has the wiring diagrams and electrical part numbers included, so that's handy.

thanks for posting this! highly useful for owners of these rare gems. i created acad dwgs of the wiring schematic for my trailer, which i will now recheck with the factory information. i will keep in mind, however, that mine is a few years older and there are likely some differences. if you have any other manuals you could share i am sure others would be most interested. i have determined that my porcelain toilet appears to be a thetford, no luck on google yet. thanks again for taking the time to post
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Old 02-19-2016, 05:50 AM   #25
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Now that the interior is basically stripped to the walls, I decided last night to take off one of the interior panels. The rear awning support is missing a bolt or two, so I wanted to see how it could be better secured. I didn't realize that the entire length of the side walls are just made up of one long panel across the top half. That was a lot of rivets to drill out.

Anyway, now that the panel is off, I am finding more evidence of ants and mice. The wiring will be exposed soon too, so I will just replace it as well.

Pretty soon, it will just be a frame and a shell.
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Old 02-20-2016, 05:13 AM   #26
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Looks familiar. It's a lot of work but you'll be glad you did it.
Wear a mask and goggles when removing that insulation. It's nasty.
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Old 04-24-2016, 12:57 PM   #27
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Hi
I'm am presently restoring a 1971 23' Travelux up in Bathurst. Have lots of pics and am going on 3 yrs for the resto. One thing always leads to another. Also installed a grey tank between the frame and used 2 inch blue styrofoam for insulation under the floor. The inside was gutted and framed was repaired on both ends,with a new belly pan. Have some original travelux info, that came with the trailer. Pic shows all led lights on rear, including backups
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:41 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfixit51 View Post
Hi
I'm am presently restoring a 1971 23' Travelux up in Bathurst. Have lots of pics and am going on 3 yrs for the resto. One thing always leads to another. Also installed a grey tank between the frame and used 2 inch blue styrofoam for insulation under the floor. The inside was gutted and framed was repaired on both ends,with a new belly pan. Have some original travelux info, that came with the trailer. Pic shows all led lights on rear, including backups
Looks good!

Unfortunately, now that the weather has improved, other projects are interfering with my restoration. Once the rush of spring chores subsides, I should be back to the Travelux.

The floor is now completely removed and only the lower wall panels remain. I need to tackle the black water tank as well. It seems to be in good shape, but I haven't gotten underneath to see how to remove it without any smelly mess.

Once the tank is out, I'll start on the frame. It needs repair in a couple of spots, but nothing major.

Where did you get your grey water tank from mrfixit51?
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Old 04-26-2016, 12:29 PM   #29
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Nice to see that you are coming along. I have attached a few pics of the black and grey tank installation. My black tank was above the floor, and i put the gray one between the frames. There are a few problems with the grey tank installation. I used the original shower drain holes which come across the frames.I also installed a 1/2 in drain on the tank bottom which i brought across within the frames to the main outlet, because with this setup , you can only drain the tank to half , the 1/2 inch line does the rest . The pics attached show the 2 tanks prior to a full install. Keep in mind that my belly pan remains flush, because on the shower, i installed a rubber, horizontal trap. Hope this helps a little more
regards
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Old 04-26-2016, 12:48 PM   #30
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Did you remove any of the frame cross-members to get that tank in there? On my 29', there are a lot more than what is showing in your pictures.
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Old 04-27-2016, 09:30 AM   #31
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I have attached 2 pics , on before and one after. The new install is missing the 2 cross braces on each side of the new tank. I have black marks on the tank side channels , where each on went. In the original photo, pay no attention to the piece of aluminum sitting on top. That piece came from the underbelly floor under the black tank plywood floor. My advice for the floor would be 5/8 marine plywood, not OSB. First tried OSB on the front and changed to plywood for the back part. OSB comes apart to easily. Don't forget if you use 5" 1/8" channel, it is much stronger than the original formed channel.I had to modify as i went along. That's part of the satisfaction of making it better than what was previously engineered. Hope this helps!
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:21 AM   #32
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Thanks those pictures are a good example to go by. I'm still hoping the belly pan will not have to come off. It has a few holes, but they are mostly pin holes. I figure I can find something to patch them with. As for the frame, there are only a couple of problem areas. Most of it is still solid.

I can't figure out why there is so much extra support in the rear. Most of the cross braces back there are only about 2" deep and don't go the whole way to the belly pan. You can see a couple of them in my second picture above. They run parallel to the main frame rails. A couple are in bad shape, so I may just remove them. They aren't even in a location that would require extra support.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:04 AM   #33
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i think if you use good 5"channel, you should be able to strenghten up the rear ,without as much of a web design. Keep in mind ,you have a 29, mine is a 23. That's why a lot of older and longer airstreams, had tail drop in this area. All of the frame components are only bent or formed steel. New 5" forged channel pieces between the 2 main frame rails, are way stronger , but add to the overall weight . My plan was to stay within the 5" frame for my tank ,to keep a clean underbelly. You need to decide on a tank and then work from there. My situation was not ideal, but it was the best i could do. All of my outriggers were also replaced in back, i think 5. They are the pieces to the outer walls. It took a lot of figgering lol
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Old 02-24-2020, 03:56 AM   #34
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Hello gehrhard and all

Did you progress with your build ?
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