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04-23-2012, 10:57 AM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
1967 30' Sovereign
Chiefland
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
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1967 30' Rolland
The work begins-blocked up, ready to remove axles and belly skin. (Picked it up with the big forklift, and it didn't break in half-good sign!) Ordered a 39" curved window for the side from Andy at Inland, along with more clips and window gasket material. Untangeling all the Zip Dee stuff, figuring what plastic parts I now have to fab out of aluminum, and finding new canvas for both sides. Interior is pretty well stripped to the floor, but the whole bathroom will have to come out, including the floor. Wayne may have some heaters and tanks that I need, That would be a big help. Need to find someone locally to make the 1/8" X 22" X 39" front and rear windows. Does anyone know the exact cut measurements for them? (someone broke them out on this trailer and installed window A/C units in both ends, but thank goodness left all the hardware in place) Sounds like a piece of cake, right? Has anyone else out there removed the roof air unit and installed a unit inside and exhausted through the floor? If you have, please let me know what you did, and how it worked out. Would like to cut down some more wind resistance if I can.-More to come, Rolland
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04-23-2012, 09:23 PM
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#2
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Hi Rolland, check out this guys link about the in cabin mounted a/c. two questions
1) Why are you removeing axles first? Arent yoou doing a shell off floor replacement?
2) Why did you order curved glass? Arent your windows square? The windows look like my Windows.
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04-24-2012, 08:52 AM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
1967 30' Sovereign
Chiefland
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
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30' rehab
Decided not to pull the shell on this one, and try to do everything from the bottom-Am going to pull the axles for more room to work, and will replace them from Inland with new anyway-The windows front and rear are flat, will get glass cut locally, but the 39' side window is curved-Only bad floor is in the bathroom, so don't think floor replacement is necessary-Rolland
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04-24-2012, 08:59 AM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1974 Argosy 28
Tampa
, Florida
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolland
Decided not to pull the shell on this one, and try to do everything from the bottom-Am going to pull the axles for more room to work, and will replace them from Inland with new anyway-The windows front and rear are flat, will get glass cut locally, but the 39' side window is curved-Only bad floor is in the bathroom, so don't think floor replacement is necessary-Rolland
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Ive got to ask, whats the snorkel coming off the rear all about?
Anyway, good luck with your '67. I have some odds and ends around from a '67 you are welcome to down in Tampa when you get to that point.
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04-24-2012, 11:52 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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Brave man to take on that one...good to see another rescue
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04-24-2012, 12:38 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
Airstream - Other
2016 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Bosque Farms
, New Mexico
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 7,030
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I like your tow vehicle! At least there's one other 67 that gets moved about with a tractor!
Lynn
__________________
ACI Big Red Number 21043
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04-25-2012, 09:10 AM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
1967 30' Sovereign
Chiefland
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
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Rolland A/c Questions
Just wondering if anyone else has done the A/C under thing-I was thinking of stripping a portable unit and installing it where the oven used to be, as we will use a cooktop and microwave only, but it is only about 10,000 BTU's. How big are you guys going for a 30' trailer? I looked at toasty, and am not exactly sure what I'm looking at. There is a lot of free area in these units if you dig far enough down, and split unit A/C systems, maybe even two of them would work. Just thinking out loud. Rolland
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04-26-2012, 06:01 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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The split unit with the outside part mounted on your a-frame behind the tanks works the best. It needs the right wiring and power for it of course. I have seen them on a few trailers. The underneath cabinet system works if you do UWE's method with ducting.
Otherwise the air doesn't travel enough to cool the thing.
Having a smaller 60s unit we are doing the temporary front window mount as seen here in the Forums ...but have not had a chance to try it out in real heat. I bought a 8000 btu Frigidaire unit in the dead of winter, almost new in the box for 50 bucks. So I have not much of a gamble if it doesn't work.
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04-26-2012, 09:22 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
1967 30' Sovereign
Chiefland
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 140
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A/C and other rambling-Rolland
This is the first one I've had that actually has a nice aluminum covered spare mount on the hitch, so would like to leave it there-And I still have a set of aluminum propane tanks to mount in front of that-I really like the idea of under cabinet A/C, and if I put the ductwork in while the belly pan is off it might not work too badly. Hot exhaust out the belly pan too, with a vent pointed out away from the trailer? Still kicking the idea around of doing two units, one in the kitchen area, and one possibly towards the rear, maybe under a closet? We seem to travel in warm areas, and hot at night is not good. I also do HVAC, and on the last units I rebuilt the roof air's, they are a pretty stout system, but the down side is the wind resistance. Something mounted on the roof of a trailer is like pulling a sail. I really appreciate all the input, a group like this makes us realize we are not the Lone Ranger out here, there may be others almost as crazy!-Thanks Again!
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