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Old 06-23-2012, 08:26 PM   #41
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If it was the jack that had the hardened steel perhaps you could weld a small plate to the jack and then bolt that to the frame? Or maybe a bolt mounting plate welded to the frame if that is the problem. I always like to drill holes in metal with a drill press, if possible. I, too, like the ability to un-bolt if needed and be able to do that without special tools on the road.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:06 PM   #42
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I was having trouble drilling into the structural steel. And then started wondering if that was a good idea.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:30 PM   #43
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Sounds like direct welding of the jacks would work, or welding mounting plates for bolt installation of the jacks. That way you could avoid having to drill hardened steel or possibly compromising the frame strength. On both of my trailers the leaf spring shackles were welded to the frame so I don't think there was any concern about heat weakening the frame.
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Old 07-06-2012, 02:19 PM   #44
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I ended up going with 1/4" holes to hold the scissor jacks in place. I think my 3/8" bits got beat up in trying to get the first hole. I was able to get some beveled washers for the structural steel so it mounted up nicely. This will greatly make the parking/leveling process easier.
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Old 07-06-2012, 02:48 PM   #45
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Solar

The trailer is getting to a very usable state, though I still have a few major systems to deal with (axle, solar, water, food).

I have been looking into solar for a year or so and am ready to purchase, but am still refining the design.


One major thing is that parking in shade is much preferable. This is a small trailer that gets real hot in direct sunlight. I have reflectix insulation and am building some curtains that use reflective material on one side. Ideally I would park in the shade or somewhere where I just get morning or afternoon direct sunlight.

[SOLAR PANELS: 1 PV panel on roof + 1 portable PV panel]
I am thinking about mounting a panel on the roof and having an additional portable panel. Parking the trailer in shade outweigh the disadvantages of potential theft/storage. Having a dedicated roof mounted panel is desirable.

ROOF PANEL
I have been looking at AMSolar and really like what they have to offer. I also came across the Uni-Solar flexible panels last year and was really tempted by them. I looked back at them again recently and the price has fallen some more. I just noted that they have come out with a newer panel (Uni-Solar ePVL-68 in my case).

It is slightly smaller and thinner than the previous PVL panel, and I could potentially fit 4 of these panels on my roof. I think 2 will suffice for now. I did notice that they are in the middle of Chapter 11 bankruptcy but are planning on continuing operations. The ePVL panels are new and the only source I've found requires bulk ordering (50). At that price they are $120/panel though. The older model is $90/panel bulk price. I've seen them retail around $225/panel.

I know these are less efficient, but could be more effective if parking in shade. I do wonder how much the curvature of the roof would affect the panel efficiency. At the ends they would be slightly sloping in opposite directions. The Uni-Solar panels are about 9' long.

The nice thing about the Boles is that it has a lot of flat (in one dimension) roof space. I only have a 14" fan vent in the middle.


PORTABLE PANEL
I have come across Zamp and CEA as makers of portable panels. They have built in stands and come with cases. Should I be looking at anything else for a panel?

Has anyone ever done a pole mount system on the tongue?


ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
I'm also interested in containing the electrical components (battery, converter, solar charger, inverter, etc.) inside a tongue box. The primary concern here is tongue weight and heat. Right now I have one AGM battery and a Progressive Dynamics 4045 converter.

The thought here too is to save space on the interior and have a self contained power system that could be used elsewhere. The trailer has been built out with modularity/flexibility in mind and has an open floor plan right now. The benches/bed/desk/storage shelf can all be removed. However, the more stuff I cram in there, the less ideal that is.

All the interiors walls match the shape of the trailer and after using it for a while I realize that the point where the curved roof meets the floor is underutilized space, so that would be the place to mount it in the interior. mounted in the interior.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:26 PM   #46
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I've also added some photos to the AirForums photo gallery:

1948 Boles Aero - Photo Gallery
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Old 07-09-2012, 09:39 PM   #47
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Today I finally took care of a 12V DC power hub for accessories. I've been working through this for some time and quickly ran into the fact that there is no standard jack/plug for DC electronics.

I hadn't figured out the enclosure I would put it in either, until it occurred to me that I could place the jacks inside the base of my work lamp. I picked up one of those nice articulating arm work lamps at a used office store and replace the guts with LED strip lights. It was a really smooth process and works great.

The base of the lamp originally held the transformer to run the fluorescent lights and provided enough room. I hadn't thought of it until I started cutting aluminum plates to replace the original covers. Thank goodness the plates were pretty crude (tin snips) and I realized what I could do with that extra space.

I used 4 size M jacks (5.5mm OD x 2.1mm ID) and 1 power port/cigarette lighter jack. I ran positive/negative wires into the base and then jumped them off of barrier strips. They are wired in parallel. The only thing I think I need to do is run thicker gauge wire to the lamp to handle a full load. It is fused at 10A. Most of the DC stuff connected now (fan/stereo/light) is at 2A/ea or less. I'd also like to make a DC extension cord. The accessories have different jacks themselves, so it would be ideal to standardize those.







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Old 07-09-2012, 09:58 PM   #48
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Nice! Thanks for sharing.

I just got a 'store bought' ciggie lighter extension cord for my '49 Boles. I had wired in only two "outlets" and needed more versatility.

I am looking into a solar option, also. I will be going by the AM Solar shop in Springfield soon to get some birch plywood for my '52 Boles. I plan to see if AM Solar can design a system for the top of the canopy on my pickup. I have two travel trailers and a boat that all need some charge on the batteries. And I don't want to afford three systems. Whatever fits on my pickup is going to be "just right". In other words, better than the nothing I now have.
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Old 07-12-2012, 11:27 AM   #49
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I got in a scale and it weighs in at 2380lbs. That is with a considerable amount of stuff inside, but not quite fully loaded.

It sounds like the 3500lb axle is definitely the way to go. I am going to talk with the rep, but I wouldn't think it needs to get downrated at that weight.
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:49 PM   #50
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I put in my order for the axle. The rep said that a 3500# axle is designed to work in the range of 2200# - 3500#. Just curious, would 3500# be a redline kind of limit? Definitely don't over load past that? Or does it just become progressively more rigid? I suppose any road impact or stress would be absorbed by the frame and then the body.








I also built up a tail light assembly that goes on the license plate bracket. I didn't realize it before hand but this is how a lot of motorcycles are setup. I've been wanting to add more lights since I took off the temporary pedestal lights and put in original glass lenses in the rear side markers. They are wired up for turn/brake as well. I have not been able to tell what (if any) rear facing tail lights were originally on the trailer. The rest of the rear is completely blank minus two small screw holes just above the rivet line.

I am thinking about replacing the rear side facing markers with amber glass and installing another set of Pell Lights with the red glass lenses that would be rear facing at the same height as the markers. I have found a source, though they are not cheap, for two additional light assemblies.

The main draw back is that the lights are only 3" in diameter, but they do put out quite a bit of light. I'm going to think on that and see if it would be enough - seems like the driving environment is so much more complex visually than it used to be. Right now I'm running incandescent bulbs, but have looked into switching to LEDs and will do that when I find the right fit, brightness and quality of light.
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:41 PM   #51
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I got in a scale and it weighs in at 2380lbs. That is with a considerable amount of stuff inside, but not quite fully loaded.

It sounds like the 3500lb axle is definitely the way to go. I am going to talk with the rep, but I wouldn't think it needs to get downrated at that weight.
Was that with the trailer still hitched to the tow vehicle? If so, the tongue weight will be an additional amount. Personally, I'd re-weigh by disconnecting on scale after chocking wheels, and getting tow vehicle off the scale for the reading (or, off shared scale pad if a three-pad scale). Propane and fresh water tanks full -- plus permanent trailer gear aboard -- is what I would consider an "adjusted" empty weight (over any published figure) consonant with ownership . . the number obtained one that won't ever be lower, only higher with the addition of gear and supplies for travel.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:25 PM   #52
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It was weighed by itself on the scale so that is its full weight - minus water and some other misc items.

I setup an axle thread here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f437...ero-93717.html

The new one came in today and I'm heading to pick it up.

3500# Dexter Tor-Flex axle with electric brakes.

I just need to figure out the mounting. The previous axle is welded on so will be a pain to take off. If I can bolt the new one on then I should be able to install it. I was give a rough quote of $250-300 to put the new one on - with the shop removing the old axle.

Below is a picture of the current axle and mount. I've looked around a bit on the forums and it seems like install is pretty straightforward - good to be meticulous about the alignment but it doesn't sound like specialty tools are needed.

How does one dispose of the old axle? Steel scrapyard?

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Old 07-26-2012, 09:15 PM   #53
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If you have your new axle welded on make sure that the installer knows that you only weld on the brackets near the ends where the holes are to bolt it on. The reason for this is that you don't want any heat on the tube where the rubber is. Also, the axle needs to "flex" and if you welded the entire bracket it couldn't flex.
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Old 07-26-2012, 11:49 PM   #54
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We worked on taking the old axle off and tack welding the new one on yesterday/today.

My friend only had 110v so I'll need to go into a shop for the full weld. We used the the mounting plate for Dexter axle and (tack) welded that to the frame.

I was wondering about the flex. For the install we mounted the bracket to the axle and lifted it into place - checking alignment from a few different points.

The new axle mounting plates sit flush on the inside edge but have a slight gap (1/16"+) on the outside (wheel side) edge . I guess the frame could be slightly bent. The scissor jacks on the rear of the frame seem to toe out just a bit - but I think it is how the axle wants to flex.

Are you saying just to weld the front and rear sides of the mounting bracket? That makes sense for flex, but there isn't a ton of material there. The previous axle had a full weld on the inner and outer sides of the frame. But it wasn't cambered like this new axle.

I'm going to take it too a shop to get beefier welds and I'm wondering if I should just reinforce the welds as they. Or do I just get them to weld at the front/rear of the mounting bracket. Or should the bracket be flush giving some wiggle room between the axle and its mounting plate. Where is the flex of the axle taken up in relation to the frame?

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Old 08-02-2012, 06:13 PM   #55
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I took it into the local RV shop here and had them do the final welds. We added a vertical plate installed along the open part of the structural frame to add rigidity at the axle mounting plate. This was recommended by Dexter.



I was inclined to close the small gap between the axle mounting plate and the outside edge of the frame, but the welder thought it would be best to leave it as is and fill the gap with a weld.

It seems that the axle has settled some and so now a gap is apparent between the axle and the axle mounting bracket on the interior side (see pic below - you can see a little bit of daylight coming through). Hopefully this isn't cause for concern as this is the final install.



We installed the axle by mounting it to the mounting brackets and tacking them on after measuring for alignment. Rather than continuing with the weld, it seems like the best thing would have been to drop the axle from the mounting plates and weld the brackets flush to the frame. It seems that the flex in the axle is taken up slowly.

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Old 07-11-2018, 01:11 PM   #56
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i have a 1959 Boles Aero that cannot be moved from its location. I need any page from your owners manual that shows the weight of your trailer. If you have any paper work from your trailer I would greatly appreciate any help.
thanks
John Smith
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Old 07-11-2018, 02:22 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by john k smith View Post
i have a 1959 Boles Aero that cannot be moved from its location. I need any page from your owners manual that shows the weight of your trailer. If you have any paper work from your trailer I would greatly appreciate any help.
thanks
John Smith
Hi John,

FYI this thread is about 6 years old, so it is unlikely that any earlier posters will see your recent post IMO. I have quoted the last poster before you, so hopefully he will get an email notifying him to check here, if he is still "with us."

You might also try sending him a Private Message.

The new search function above in the blue box works very well, so if you enter "Boles Aero" as search terms, you might come up with some other possible leads.

Good luck,

Peter

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I took it into the local RV shop here and had them do the final welds.
. . .
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