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Prickly Pear · 04-27-2011, 04:30 PM

Kip,

Does this activity mean that you will be bringing an "upgraded" aluminum tent to the Restoration Rally? Looking forward to seeing you.

Jim

Aerowood · 04-27-2011, 09:23 PM

yah pretty much so. Not much work going to happen to the Gt after the rally untill Oct. I've got to go on the road again for awhile.

Aerowood · 04-28-2011, 07:10 PM

Today I installed the gray tank/bath vent. They are getting easier. Tomorrow I am removing the curb side window frame to reseal

Zeppelinium · 04-29-2011, 03:48 PM

Excellent. I will copy this when I get that far on the Safari. thanks.

Zep

gnmostream · 04-30-2011, 09:08 AM

It all started when I noticed a small water leak last summer on the under bellie of the 70/GT. So early this spring I began the process of removing the water tank in between the frequent spring snows we get here in the Southern Rockies. More than a month later I have the job 85% complete. But below is the rest of the story.

I took the advice of several members on the forum and screwed a stout piece of metal on the water tank cover to pull it off. After the come-along did not work I used a stouter piece of metal hooked a chain on it and hooked it to the truck. It took a might tug in 4wd low range but it come out with no apparent damage. On the water tank I labeled the filler tube, air vent hose, pump hose and sensor wires and dropped the tank. It was easy to spot the area of the leak from the 40 year old cracked fittings and hoses. I cleaned the outside up and did the chlorine disenfection treatment to the inside. The local RV dealer suggested 1/4 cup straight chlorox bleach mixed in a gallon of water for every 15 gallons. The GT has a 33 gallon tank so I mixed 2 gallons of the solution, put stopppers on the outlets and filled it up. After letting it sit for 7 hours I flushed it out a couple times and mixed a 1/4 cup of baking soda in a gallon of water to neutrilize the chlorine. Filled it up again and let it set for an hour, then rinsed it out. The metal frame holding the tank in place was wire brushed to bare metal and 2 coats of anti-rust paint applied,the plywood which was in good shape was also sanded and a coat of sealer was applied to it and the 3 side panels that keep the tank away from the metal frame.The only problem I had was a brass sensor screw had corroded in the sensor so after an unsuccessful attempt of trying to back it out I was able to solder a wire in the hole from my drill out attempt. The other plastic fittings were all in good repair so I used them. I hope to have the job complete in the next couple weekends without any weather delays.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Guiseppe

Pagosa Springs Co.

Aerowood · 04-30-2011, 09:49 AM

My tank is a little different then yours. With just a year difference I would have thought they would be the same. Mine has two of the large vents that are "Y'ed" together.

Aerowood · 04-30-2011, 10:08 AM

Yesterday I removed the curb side window just because it had so much sealant on it. After removing the window frame I saw the main reason that they leaked (see 2nd picture). The windows are installed with a foam gasket. When shooting rivets through a material softer then the rivets, the rivet will swell in that material. The foam gasket then starts to deteriorate and the swelled up shank of the rivet acts as a spacer between the frame and the outside skin, thus allowing water to flow right in. Almost all of the rivets were like this. I tried a new tool for my die grinder to remove the layers of different kinds of sealant. I had tried it once before at the rally last year and it scratched the aluminum so I didn't try it again. Then last week one of my co-worker was using one to remove sealant off of our Gulfstream V's polished leading edge and it was not scratching it at all. Long story short here I had the disc's on the mandrel backward. Any way they are made by 3M P/N 30098 and they work great as long as you pay attention to the rotating direction. I had all the old silicon /latex/epoxy/etc mixture cleaned off in about 15 minutes. Re-shot the window back on with no issues.

Lance M · 04-30-2011, 11:25 AM

Looks great Kip. All of Abby's windows are like that, but with more Parbond gooped over the seam. I've been looking for some kind of disk like that. Thanks for the info on it. Where can you get these? My consumables locker is fresh out! Did you use PS or PRC to seal it?

Aerowood · 04-30-2011, 03:34 PM

I used PRC 1440B-2. I will find out where to get them

I also noticed that I didn't post a picture on what the skin looked like after cleaning up with the 3M disc, so see below. This is a picture of the curbside upper Vista View that I did today. I also finished up the curb side upper lap seam stringer installation.

Lance M · 04-30-2011, 06:12 PM

Thanks Kip. I found them. Sky Geek dot com has them.

Buy 3M™ 048011-30098 Scotch-Brite® SR Plastic Radial Bristle Disc 3"- Sky Geek, Skygeek Owner, Shop Supplies, Sealant Accessories, 3M SR Cutters and Bristle Disks,

Sky Geek is where I got my alodine, ZC primer and alumiprep. They were fast. Of course if my tech supply guy found me an NSN and started stocking them on the floor..

Aerowood · 04-30-2011, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by top

of course if my tech supply guy found me an nsn and started stocking them on the floor..

5345015867812

Zeppelinium · 04-30-2011, 09:23 PM

No scratches? This is great!

Zep

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

I used PRC 1440B-2. I will find out where to get them

I also noticed that I didn't post a picture on what the skin looked like after cleaning up with the 3M disc, so see below. This is a picture of the curbside upper Vista View that I did today. I also finished up the curb side upper lap seam stringer installation.

IndyAnne · 04-30-2011, 11:57 PM

Kip,

Beautiful work, as usual!

Do you know if a similar tool you made for the dent work (the roller) also available commercially, or would you be willing to make another for sale? I'm learning more about dent repairs, and have seen various tools to use with mallets, but the roller is brilliant.

Thanks for reporting with such helpful detailed descriptions and photos.

Anne

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

I don't quit understand Airstream engineers, why in the world would one cut a huge hole in the upper lap seam to install a waste vent. Being I am changing the location and style of vents I had one to patch. I decided to do a flush type lap seam repair only because I can. I also decided to install stringers on the upper lap seams. I also removed the fridge vent to roll out some dents and install a screen over the opening. I ran into another can of worms. The fridge vent was only riveted on with a few randomly spaced rivets. It also had a 1/8" cork gasket that was rotted out. I couldn't let this go so I removed the whole nine yards cleaned up the corrosion and the rest of the mess, and reinstalled with a few extra rivets. I still need to install nutplates for the vent cover. The lap seam itself was shot together dry and there was minor corrosion there as well. I cleaned this up also and shot the whole mess together with sealant. I am slowly working myself to the top.

Aerowood · 05-01-2011, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IndyAnne

Kip,

Beautiful work, as usual!

Do you know if a similar tool you made for the dent work (the roller) also available commercially, or would you be willing to make another for sale? I'm learning more about dent repairs, and have seen various tools to use with mallets, but the roller is brilliant.

Thanks for reporting with such helpful detailed descriptions and photos.

Anne

There is a long list of people wanting me to make some. I will be raffling one away at the FCU Restoration Rally in June though.

I guess I just need to order the materails and make a bunch.

truckasaurus · 05-01-2011, 11:34 AM

I might give those discs a whirl; I've been using something similar I made using a slice from a trim otter landing gear compression block (rubbery stuff).

ND10CentCan · 05-01-2011, 04:35 PM

If you decide to make a bunch, I would love to buy one. Anything that helps restore the trailer and do it without too many tears and other fits of emotion would be good. Let me know if you decide to make them and sell them; I'll be on the ordering list for sure. Thanks.
Sandy

tinman54 · 05-01-2011, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top

Thanks Kip. I found them. Sky Geek dot com has them.

Buy 3M™ 048011-30098 Scotch-Brite® SR Plastic Radial Bristle Disc 3"- Sky Geek, Skygeek Owner, Shop Supplies, Sealant Accessories, 3M SR Cutters and Bristle Disks,

Sky Geek is where I got my alodine, ZC primer and alumiprep. They were fast. Of course if my tech supply guy found me an NSN and started stocking them on the floor..

Thanks for the Link, I am anxious to try these! It looks to easy to be true

Doug

IndyAnne · 05-01-2011, 07:37 PM

I will gladly send you a deposit!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

There is a long list of people wanting me to make some. I will be raffling one away at the FCU Restoration Rally in June though.

I guess I just need to order the materails and make a bunch.

Idaho Fisher · 06-14-2011, 10:40 PM

Hey Aerowood, enjoyed your resotration so far. Sure like what you have done. I like what you have said about your interior redesign. Do you have anything sketched up you could share. I have been working on a large bed option and wondered what you have came up with.

Dave