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Aerowood · 10-05-2016, 01:49 PM

I had planned on a lot of work this last summer but my labor was re-tasked to a remodel of our family cabin. I'm traveling a lot this fall so no work. I am still planning on having it done before I retire in 4 years.

angieair · 05-02-2017, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

window sealed

What did you use for sealant on these windows? (I hope you still remember! I know I'm late in on the action.) I just got a 69 GT and the old gray rubber in the window channels has come out in several places. We were going to take the windows apart and put in new stuff but it looks like more of a job than I can handle! If I can put caulk or something around them and it looks as nice as yours, I'd rather use my time for other jobs on the Airstream. Thanks!

angieair · 05-02-2017, 05:11 PM

Nevermind

I read back and found it. Wow! Great reading all about your restore! I'll be embarrassed to show any pics of mine. Keep doing what you're doing. Maybe see you guys around Colorado sometime.

Kartimel · 05-22-2017, 07:28 PM

We just spent the last day buffing and polishing out tail lights like this to go on our Argosy (we removed the plastic 'wrap'). They look pretty good but yours look amazing...great job!

Aerowood · 05-23-2017, 07:10 AM

Thank you

Aerowood · 05-30-2017, 06:54 AM

My wife and I went on a Rally recently and the rear window seal leaked and some bedding got damp. As I hadn't replaced that window seal yet I decided to change it before the GT went back to storage. I brought my tools home from work and and got started. First I removed the old seal and exposed the rivets that hold the hinge to the window frame. The window or hinge had been replaced before and there were extra holes and and some holes were quite large. After cleaning the old seal materiel off I countersunk the the frame where the seal is installed. The bucktails under the seal puts a lot of stress on the hinge and in my opinion does not allow for the upper portion of the seal to properly mate with the opposite sealing surface. I then proceeded to re-shoot the hinge back on with the bucktail forming into the the countersink. I then sanded off the excess bucktail so the seal now sets flush on the window frame. I then installed the seal and re-hung the window with no issues and an afternoon rain confirmed the problem was corrected

RankAm · 05-30-2017, 07:56 AM

Thanks for showing the technique to form the bucktail in a countersink.

When you "sanded off" the bucktails, what did you use?

Hank

Aerowood · 05-30-2017, 08:15 AM

I used a 3m roloc sanding disc and a 3m roloc surface conditioning disc on a 90 degree die grinder.

RankAm · 05-31-2017, 06:56 AM

Thanks, Kip. That is a useful technique.

Hank

Chuck · 05-31-2017, 07:57 AM

Is this the "J" shaped hinge on the window frame? Mine appears to have been originally attached with a very small solid rivet...probably a squeeze-rivet (? not sure if that is the right name). All of the windows and fridge compartment, too, are attached this way. Maybe it wasn't oem, now that I think of it, because the fridge compartment's rivets are rusted.

Anyway, not very strong; if you are re-attaching a window and the "J"s aren't perfectly aligned, you'll easily pop a couple of those rivets right out.

Aerowood · 05-31-2017, 11:18 AM

Yes this is the "J" hinge. The windows close better with flush bucktails. All of my windows have been assembled this way and I am converting them all to flush bucktails.

Chuck · 05-31-2017, 12:36 PM

So is it "factory" to use a much smaller rivet, here, than the rounded head rivets that are used on all of the body panels? and do you buck them, or sqeeze 'em?

Aerowood · 05-31-2017, 03:57 PM

Yes, I took out MS20470A-4-XX rivets which only have a 1/4" shop head diameter and 1/8" shank. I replaced them with the same rivet but just shot the bucktail into the countersunk hole. I shot them in using a rivet gun and bucking bar. Below is a pic of the bucktails before I sanded off the excess.

marc2harri · 06-09-2017, 10:48 AM

Dear Aerowood,

I am trying to find a cheaper way to replace the KT lock. I looked for your solution but can't find it. Can you give me direction please? Much appreciated!

Aerowood · 06-11-2017, 08:39 AM

It's not an easy conversion. I had to do extensive modifications to my cast door frame. As I am replying on my phone I can't see what year you are dealing with as different years s have different door frames. I will get you the page numbers when I get in front of a computer.