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Old 08-15-2011, 10:09 AM   #449
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I'll answer your questions in order

1) I used CDX (I think, it was a long time ago)
2) Yes just poly, I'm cheap so I just mixed up all those half cans and put it around the edges until it would not soak in anymore and also just squeegeed it on both faces until the bucket was empty. multiple coats. I then at a later date sanded the top all down and applied epoxy concrete paint (this stuff was like water and soaked in at an unbelievable rate) that I rescued from the hazmat man at work. I just poured this on and rolled it out. I sanded between coats and I applied multiple coats until the wood would no longer absorb any more. I also found out where all the leaks on the floor were at. I still have the white spots on the driveway to prove it and I cannot get it removed.
3) I do believe painting and sealing up the old floor would make it smell better inside.
4) I wicked superglue into the fastener holes before installing the bolts. Also see above about concrete epoxy, it soaks, wicks, and penetrates around everything. My wife is still not happy about the before mentioned paint on the driveway.
5) The Aluminum angle used is one I bent up at work as it is not 90 degrees. I believe this angle is crucial in attaching th rear of the trailer to the frame. I even extended it both ways to also tie it to the two vertical frame members. I also increased the rivet count in this area. I also believe this area, along with the corresponding front vertical plate, need solid fasteners.
6) Corrosion is a fickle thing and has to be completely removed. One way is replacing the part. Second best is to bead blast the part, this is what I did to the channels that I reused. You cannot remove corrosion from all the areas its in unless all mating surfaces are opened up for the corrosion removel to be complete. No point in cleaning up just the visible and leaving it in all the seams. Minor surface corrosion can be remove with a Scotch Brite surfacing conditioning disc, but any rivets should be removed at the corroded area.
7) Alodine is just a conversion coat that allows the primer to stick, by its self it provides very little corrosion protection. The aviation industry that I know has not used zinc chromate primer for decades. Epoxy primer has been the industry standard for years.
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Old 08-15-2011, 04:01 PM   #450
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didn't notice that the hold-down plate was angled...or, rather, "not 90 degrees". Its clear, though, that it isn't tilted back at the same angle as the skin, so I just assumed it was 90. Perhaps I'll just stick w/ the original, and just wire-wheel/por-15/paint it. It doesn't appear to be that bad...at least, what I can see of it at this time.
speaking of that...is there no por-15 equivalent for aluminum? encapsulating/converting (i.e. naval jelly for steel) it won't do any good?
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:09 AM   #451
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If you reuse the original angle be sure to prime it real good or use the POR. Install a layer of sealant between the aluminum and steel to keep moisture out.

On my trailer the steel angle was bent to match the rear skin.
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Old 08-16-2011, 05:44 PM   #452
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didn't notice that the hold-down plate was angled...or, rather, "not 90 degrees". Its clear, though, that it isn't tilted back at the same angle as the skin, so I just assumed it was 90. Perhaps I'll just stick w/ the original, and just wire-wheel/por-15/paint it. It doesn't appear to be that bad...at least, what I can see of it at this time.
speaking of that...is there no por-15 equivalent for aluminum? encapsulating/converting (i.e. naval jelly for steel) it won't do any good?
Chuck, check the area under the plate.
Kip, sorry to highjack
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Old 02-08-2012, 08:54 AM   #453
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Thanks

Thanks so much for putting all the great information in this thread. I have just started a full monte on our "new" 66 Globetrotter and find myself checking back over this thread a lot.

I just took our door hinge down to a local machine shop and was able to sound like I knew what I was talking about when we discussed the rework.

I hope you know how much confidence and initiative you inspire in other forum members, even if we can't come close to your craftsmanship. Keep up the good work.

Laird
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:03 PM   #454
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I have to agree with you on the interior skins don't do much for the overall strength. I am still investigating but it looks like the interior panel holes are predrilled to a larger OD than the hole in the cross members which makes the panels rattle around and loosen rivets. It may just be the holes have worn over the years but they would be oval shaped if that is the case. I have a few rivets that are trying to wear through the panels. I know, Andy is going to say it is drive train imbalance but some of it maybe poor workmanship in the first place. Vibration is a way of life.

Nice job you did on this trailer. You had to rebuild just about everything on it. Did you go looking for a project on this one or did luck play a role? Looks like your trailer either had a lot of miles on it or a lot of abuse. So you going to put an O2 system in it next so you can camp at 15,000 ft? It should be air tight after all the hard work you did. You have a better than new trailer now.

Perry

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My current plan is for segmented interior end caps. The rear unit will actually attach to the second frame from the aft side. I'm hoping to get some time this summer to continue with the restoration.

I do not think that the interior end caps contribute any structural strength. IMHO the "as built" Interior skins add only a marginal amount to the overall strength of the torque box due to the low numbers of fasteners. If a greater amount of fasteners were used on the interior and exterior skin it would add significantly to the overall strength, in compression, tension and torque. Attaching the stringers to the frame will also increase the overall strength.

But as I've been told before, "Kip, the damn thing doesn't have to fly". I just don't want it to leak or come apart going down those Colorado forest service roads. As my late father used to say "when in doubt make it stout"

Welcome to the Forums D. Phillips
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Old 02-09-2012, 12:26 PM   #455
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I had been looking for some time but I really didn't want to travel to far. I was originally looking for a 60's 19 or a 50's 22 but everything I found close was either way to expensive or had title issues. I finally found the 71 21 in a storage lot on Craigslist with the owner having moved out of state. I went and looked at it and determined it was way to much money for its condition and offered a price that was rejected. the owner called me back around 6 weeks later and asked if I would reconsider at another price that was still to high, I offered 1800 and he took it a week later. When I went to pick it up his representative did not have the title and the storage lot fee was not up to date so I couldn't remove it any way. As another lot fee was coming up the owner overnighted the title to his representative and resolved the lot fee issues and I was able to take possession.

It was in really bad shape but but we were looking for something that we could customize the interior for our liking anyway. I was not originally planning on changing so much skin, but as it is said "while I'm at lets just change this too" and it kind of ballooned from there. It leaked everywhere, so having it gutted and using it as an Aluminum Tent helped identify all the leaks. We also changed the layout of out camping gear inside several times to determine what worked for us best. So the layout is the following, Dedicated full size bed crosswise across the rear with storage underneath, Curbside wet bath with a 6 cubic ft fridge forward of the bath but aft of the entry door. Streetside closet forward of the bed and then the galley with double sinks and a stove/oven. Fwd will be a dinette with an airconditioning unit under the left street side bench.
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Old 02-09-2012, 02:33 PM   #456
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So do you have some photos of your interior work? I liked your leak proof roof vent. I have thought of modifying the existing square teepee and put some sort of top on it so rain can't get in there eliminating the need for the rubber gasket that has to be replaced way too often. Maybe a backwards facing thing.

Perry
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Old 02-10-2012, 04:01 PM   #457
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There is no interior yet. It's still in kit form in the basement.
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Old 02-10-2012, 06:01 PM   #458
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You have a layout yet or are you going back with the original interior? I have a feeling there will be lots of aluminum?

Perry
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Old 02-10-2012, 06:28 PM   #459
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... I have a feeling there will be lots of aluminum? ...
Kip helped me with my aluminum interior on the Sovereign. He told me after I got started that he was too smart to do that. He was right.

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Old 02-11-2012, 10:42 AM   #460
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You have a layout yet or are you going back with the original interior? I have a feeling there will be lots of aluminum?

Perry
The interior is going to be completely different then the original with the exception of the dinette and fridge location. The original stove vent with be in the side bath now and I have another one that I will put on the street side for the new location stove. the dedicated rear bed is where the old bath was. All the interior partitions will be a sandwich construction so I can run conduits inside for various wiring. they will be 1/8" ply facing with a 1/2" foam core vacuumed bagged. I have already done a mock up and a 3' x 1' test article suspended between blocks could hold my ample weight. The interior wood will be natural cherry veneer and solids. As far a polished aluminum inside, there will be none as I feel it is to much maintenance. The end caps will be segmented with the rear being longer then the original fiberglass panel due to the increased with of the bed verse the original footprint of the bath. I have a tendency to get up much earlier then my wife and with the bathroom door open it will seal off the sleeping compartment and let me putter around without disturbing her.

I still have one more "Leakless Vent" to install, and the removal of the streetside windows to reseal the frame to body interface, before I start cutting in the access doors for the battery, water heater, water fill, electrical, etc.

I don't know how much I will get done this year as I have yo go to Salina Kansas for the month of May and to Thailand the month of Aug. with lots of work in between.
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Old 02-11-2012, 10:59 AM   #461
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Well the plans sound impressive. I am sure it will turn out well. I am debating what sort of interior mods I am going to make to mine. I am not nuts about the whole coucho thing. I will probably put it back in there when I get through with the front end R&R. We used a futon last fall but it was not good for sitting at the table. Last fall I barely got the rear floor back in before going to FL twice. I have not had time to R&R the coucho and put it back in. I figure we need to live with it for a while to give me some inspiraton on what would be better. I am thinking a large dinet arrangment for the front. I will make a scale drawing and maybe a 3D model of the trailer so I can play with different layouts. We have a rear bedroom twin now and I like that arrangement with the bath in the center. Like you say, you can divide the living space from the bedroom area. Once the front living area is squared away, I want to either replace the existing plastic coated laun or at least put some cherry or oak vinear over it. The interior is not in bad shape right now so I am in no hurry.

Perry
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Old 02-11-2012, 02:43 PM   #462
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Kip,
This whole thread is an inspiration and a great source of reference material to anyone who wants to learn more about sheet metal work and vintage trailer restoration. I've gone through and copied many of the pictures into a folder on my hard drive and I've created a Microsoft Word document of selected posts and pictures that is currently twelve pages long.

I also want to thank you for reviewing the thread on my floor restoration and leaks. I'm documenting our discussion on the approach to my own repairs.

I am truly in your debt sir!

Steve
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