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Old 05-01-2011, 11:34 AM   #435
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1960 33' Custom
Saskatoon , Saskatchewan
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I might give those discs a whirl; I've been using something similar I made using a slice from a trim otter landing gear compression block (rubbery stuff).

1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
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Old 05-01-2011, 04:35 PM   #436
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1976 31' Sovereign
1959 17' Pacer
1965 26' Overlander
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Put my order in please....

If you decide to make a bunch, I would love to buy one. Anything that helps restore the trailer and do it without too many tears and other fits of emotion would be good. Let me know if you decide to make them and sell them; I'll be on the ordering list for sure. Thanks.

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Old 05-01-2011, 05:06 PM   #437
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Originally Posted by Top View Post
Thanks Kip. I found them. Sky Geek dot com has them.

Buy 3M™ 048011-30098 Scotch-Brite® SR Plastic Radial Bristle Disc 3"- Sky Geek, Skygeek Owner, Shop Supplies, Sealant Accessories, 3M SR Cutters and Bristle Disks,

Sky Geek is where I got my alodine, ZC primer and alumiprep. They were fast. Of course if my tech supply guy found me an NSN and started stocking them on the floor..
Thanks for the Link, I am anxious to try these! It looks to easy to be true
It's not worth doing if you're not having fun.
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Old 05-01-2011, 07:37 PM   #438
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I will gladly send you a deposit!

Originally Posted by Aerowood
There is a long list of people wanting me to make some. I will be raffling one away at the FCU Restoration Rally in June though.

I guess I just need to order the materails and make a bunch.
Indianapolis, IN
1968 Airstream Trade Wind
2005 Chevy K1500 crew, reg. bed, 4WD, gas
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:40 PM   #439
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Floor Plans??

Hey Aerowood, enjoyed your resotration so far. Sure like what you have done. I like what you have said about your interior redesign. Do you have anything sketched up you could share. I have been working on a large bed option and wondered what you have came up with.

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Old 06-15-2011, 06:34 AM   #440
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1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
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Sorry, I don't have anything formal drawn up. I just use the "TLAR" method (that looks about right)

Welcome to the Forums
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:12 AM   #441
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Kip: You did an OUTSTANDING job at the Vintage Airstream Restoration Rally in Albuquerque! Thank you for taking time out of your busy life and sharing your knowledge with us! Just don't test me on all those aluminum numbers....
AIR 24539 WBCCI 2705
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:05 AM   #442
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Kip thanks for your presentations at the resto rally, I learn something from you at every rally
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:58 AM   #443
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1973 31' Sovereign
Columbus , Ohio
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mounting windows

Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
Yesterday I removed the curb side window just because it had so much sealant on it. After removing the window frame I saw the main reason that they leaked (see 2nd picture). The windows are installed with a foam gasket. When shooting rivets through a material softer then the rivets, the rivet will swell in that material. The foam gasket then starts to deteriorate and the swelled up shank of the rivet acts as a spacer between the frame and the outside skin, thus allowing water to flow right in. Almost all of the rivets were like this. I tried a new tool for my die grinder to remove the layers of different kinds of sealant. I had tried it once before at the rally last year and it scratched the aluminum so I didn't try it again. Then last week one of my co-worker was using one to remove sealant off of our Gulfstream V's polished leading edge and it was not scratching it at all. Long story short here I had the disc's on the mandrel backward. Any way they are made by 3M P/N 30098 and they work great as long as you pay attention to the rotating direction. I had all the old silicon /latex/epoxy/etc mixture cleaned off in about 15 minutes. Re-shot the window back on with no issues.
Kip, When you reseated the window frame, did you just use vulkem or sikoflx between the frame and the body, or did you also use a 2 faced 3m tape. I recently mounted one of my windows and used the 3m 2faced tape with Vulkem, because that was what was there. The 3m tape looks like it has a foam consistency, which now worries me having read your post.
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:58 AM   #444
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Arvada , Colorado
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Just sealant, I'm using an aircraft fuel tank sealant but those you mentioned should work fine. I have been removing all of the foam gaskets from the whole trailer. Leaks are disappearing on all outside mounted appliances as I remove the foam and reinstall wet with sealant only.
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:03 PM   #445
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1970 27' Overlander
Lafayette , Colorado
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End Caps

New forum member here. I just got through reading this entire thread. I am overwhelmed at not only Kip's work but the dedication that is alive on this forum!

Kip ... I have a 1970 27' Overlander an have pretty much stripped the interior back to the interior skin. I also want to do an interior layout change but my plans are to keep a rear bath.

I'm wondering what your plans are for covering the interior end caps of your trailer? I think it was Zep's photo that showed a segmented interior end cap made up on a form, is that your intent also.

I believe my end cap is ABS and it just isn't going to function with the new baths design. I see there is no interior structure to hang things off of back there and understand the current dynamic of a molded piece formed and attached at it's edges. Some have said this molded piece is integral to the structural integrity of the unit. Could you comment on your thinking?

Your commitment to documenting your process has meant so much to so many. I'd just like to add my thanks for making this possible. I appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge and experience.

Best ... Dave
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Old 07-28-2011, 07:27 AM   #446
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Arvada , Colorado
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My current plan is for segmented interior end caps. The rear unit will actually attach to the second frame from the aft side. I'm hoping to get some time this summer to continue with the restoration.

I do not think that the interior end caps contribute any structural strength. IMHO the "as built" Interior skins add only a marginal amount to the overall strength of the torque box due to the low numbers of fasteners. If a greater amount of fasteners were used on the interior and exterior skin it would add significantly to the overall strength, in compression, tension and torque. Attaching the stringers to the frame will also increase the overall strength.

But as I've been told before, "Kip, the damn thing doesn't have to fly". I just don't want it to leak or come apart going down those Colorado forest service roads. As my late father used to say "when in doubt make it stout"

Welcome to the Forums D. Phillips
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Old 07-28-2011, 04:15 PM   #447
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1970 27' Overlander
Lafayette , Colorado
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Thanks for the quick answer. After a little more interior research I found the rear end cap to be fiberglass. I have some thinking to do around layout. Today I found some rot in the last two inches of the rearmost floor panel (under the corner drain curbside) so I'm going to have to do something about that.

Thanks again for the quick response. I'll be keeping my eye on your thread. If you find yourself in need of an extra hand I'm in Lafayette and have a pretty open schedule so give a shout.

Best ... Dave
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Old 08-13-2011, 10:19 AM   #448
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Just finished re-reading the thread, looking for a little inspiration. (think I got a little TOO much inspiration, but anyway..)

Couple questions: I didn't catch what you used for sub-floor. is it mgp? and it looks like it was just finished w/ poly--is that "enough" water proofing? perhaps with your construction techniques, its safe to conclude that it isn't ever going to leak again. my construction techinques, otoh...
Someone recently opined that much of the "musty old trailer smell" that so many notice is just "the way old plywood smells". wondering if sealing the entire sheet w/ poly would take care of that...(and maybe even help if I were to poly over any exposed old flooring that I'm not planning on replacing). mention of an epoxy coating around the perimeter...what about the fastener holes?

-also noticed that you used aluminum angle for the rear hold-down. I've seen some angle-aluminum (seemed pretty heavy; don't know the exact thickness, though) at the big-box hardware stores...wonder if that would be an adequate replacement for the rusty steel?
and does the rear skin absolutely have to be buck-riveted to this? I know, you'd do it anyway, because "you can"; I can't, so easily, but I'm sure I could arrange to have it done...unless olympics would be adequate?

treating corrosion on the inside of the the rear-exterior skin/u-channel: I have a bit of the 'standard issue'...I see that you and other airplane-guys use alodine and zc primer to treat this. can you explain this treatment?
also, how best to remove the corrosion? scotch-brite, wire-wheel, etc?
I have a bit on the exterior of the rear panel, too, along the line of rivets that attach to the hold down plate. its covered by the moulding, but I'm sure this skin cancer should be stopped while I have the opportunity.

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'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
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