Just finished re-reading the thread, looking for a little inspiration.
(think I got a little TOO much inspiration, but anyway..
Couple questions: I didn't catch what you used for sub-floor. is it mgp? and it looks like it was just finished w/ poly--is that "enough" water proofing? perhaps with your construction techniques, its safe to conclude that it isn't ever going to leak again. my construction techinques, otoh...
Someone recently opined that much of the "musty old trailer smell" that so many notice is just "the way old plywood smells". wondering if sealing the entire sheet w/ poly would take care of that...(and maybe even help if I were to poly over any exposed old flooring that I'm not planning on replacing).
Anyway...no mention of an epoxy coating around the perimeter...what about the fastener holes?
-also noticed that you used aluminum angle for the rear hold-down. I've seen some angle-aluminum (seemed pretty heavy; don't know the exact thickness, though) at the big-box hardware stores...wonder if that would be an adequate replacement for the rusty steel?
and does the rear skin absolutely have to be buck-riveted to this? I know, you'd do it anyway, because "you can"; I can't, so easily, but I'm sure I could arrange to have it done...unless olympics would be adequate?
treating corrosion on the inside of the the rear-exterior skin/u-channel: I have a bit of the 'standard issue'...I see that you and other airplane-guys use alodine and zc primer to treat this. can you explain this treatment?
also, how best to remove the corrosion? scotch-brite, wire-wheel, etc?
I have a bit on the exterior of the rear panel, too, along the line of rivets that attach to the hold down plate. its covered by the moulding, but I'm sure this skin cancer should be stopped while I have the opportunity.