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Old 02-25-2011, 02:57 PM   #379
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Vents

I have finished the final design of the "Leakless Vents". I have a prototype assembled and just have to make two more and have them welded up.

I will be using 1 1/2" polypipe for my vent pipes that will be routed between the interior and exterior walls.

These pass thrus will be mounted from the outside with the original surrounds to dress it up. The plate shown will be welded to the 1 3/8" OD pipe and then sealed, riveted or screwed to the exterior skin. This should take care of any leak issues with the original design
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Old 02-25-2011, 08:46 PM   #380
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Wow, nice work. Your trailer is going to be outstanding when it is done. Looking forward to seeing it on the road, as we know you are too. Soon, right?
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:38 AM   #381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
I was finally able to get some work done on The GT. What I did was to rivet a small clip attaching the new stringers to the frames. The work was slow and it took me a couple of days to do. Next on the list is to open clean and install stringers on the two upper skin lap joints. I will also be installing a flush lap joint repair to repair a vent hole in the lap joint. Why the engineers at Airstream did this is beyond me.
Aerowood, Did you buy or build the stringers? If you built them, what aluminum grade and thickness did you use?
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:00 AM   #382
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I bent them up at work. They are made of .063 2024-T3 Bare (no Alclad)
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Old 03-17-2011, 07:18 PM   #383
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Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
I bent them up at work. They are made of .063 2024-T3 Bare (no Alclad)
Kip, I see that airparts has 3003 H14 .063 for a lot less. Would it work OK?
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:52 PM   #384
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Kip, I see that airparts has 3003 H14 .063 for a lot less. Would it work OK?
Let's see if I've learned anything from Kip.

Use 5052-H32, it's also cheaper than 2024. The 3003 is soft, you don't want it for structure. You can also use 6061-T6, which has great corrosion resistance.

Let's see if the Master agrees...

Zep
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:02 PM   #385
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Here is a answer from best to worst

7075-T6 overkill
2024-T3 best
6061-T6 better
5052 H34 good
3003 worst
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:47 PM   #386
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Kip, I have heard from others that 2024T3 cracks when bent to a 90. Has that happened to you?

thanks
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Old 03-18-2011, 04:31 PM   #387
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2024-T3 cannot be bent with a knife edge top die on the break, it requires a radiused bend. For .063 a 1/4" radius is best, 3/16" will work but breaking against the grain is a must, along with polishing the edges at the bend. 6061-T6 will require a smaller radius of at least 1/8". 5052 and 3003 can be broke with a knife edge.
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Old 03-20-2011, 08:37 AM   #388
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70-G T water tank

Kip,

I noticed a small leak last summer in the area of the water tank panel that is lowered on the bottom of G T. I removed the front angle iron and bellie pan sheet metal covering the plywood that supports the water tank but the plywood will not slide out of the angle iron channel even with the help of a rachet strap and a com-along. I pryed and beat on the plywood and angle iron but to no luck it would not budge. There are no apparent fastners from the plywood to the angle iron. I have a couple photos attached. Any suggestions on removing the plywood that appears to be in good shape with no apparent rot?

Thanks,

Guiseppe Margiotta
Pagosa Springs





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Old 03-20-2011, 10:36 AM   #389
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Mine had a few screws that went through the bottom channel into the ply that had rotted off leaving the shank still in the iron. I punched these into the ply. I also had the devil of a time getting mine out. you might try screwing a strap or something to the ply to get a good hold of with the come-a-long. It took me the better part of a day and a six pack to get it out.
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:39 AM   #390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnmostream
Kip,

I noticed a small leak last summer in the area of the water tank panel that is lowered on the bottom of G T. I removed the front angle iron and bellie pan sheet metal covering the plywood that supports the water tank but the plywood will not slide out of the angle iron channel even with the help of a rachet strap and a com-along. I pryed and beat on the plywood and angle iron but to no luck it would not budge. There are no apparent fastners from the plywood to the angle iron. I have a couple photos attached. Any suggestions on removing the plywood that appears to be in good shape with no apparent rot?

Thanks,

Guiseppe Margiotta
Pagosa Springs

<img src="http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=124942"/>

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<img src="http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=124944"/>
Mine was stuck in there too. Tons of gunk! I used my TV. I attached a chain to the front center of the plywood. The other end of the chain was hooked to my TV. I made sure the trailer was secure and then very slowly pulled. It came out like sliding on butter. Once out I could see that the rust and debris along with swelling from dampness had it wedged in so tight that I would never have gotten it out without such measures.

It took all of 15 minutes to do. What a relief it was.

Ed

Ed/Breadbug
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:41 AM   #391
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Mine was a fairly heavy piece of plywood. A thin pry bar between the back edge and rail moved the board a few inches. That gave enough space at the front to drill a hole. The come-along attached to a loop in the hole got it out along with some hammer blows and expletives. A jack was used to control the tank drop. There are four plywood strips around that might drop also.

Jim
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:10 PM   #392
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The constructor took off the front angle iron after removing a few screws and rigged a come along to the tow chain and screwed a hook into the end of the plywood with long screws to the attach to the come along. The 1st 1 inch was tough and stuck then released and pulled out once moving.
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