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Old 05-27-2010, 09:36 AM   #365
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That would be dual P3 controllers with an antiskid funtion
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Old 07-16-2010, 12:45 PM   #366
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Clips

I was finally able to get some work done on The GT. What I did was to rivet a small clip attaching the new stringers to the frames. The work was slow and it took me a couple of days to do. Next on the list is to open clean and install stringers on the two upper skin lap joints. I will also be installing a flush lap joint repair to repair a vent hole in the lap joint. Why the engineers at Airstream did this is beyond me.
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Old 07-16-2010, 12:52 PM   #367
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wish my insides were this good looking. I mean my Sovereign's, of course.

Beautiful. I'd fly it.

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Old 07-16-2010, 01:45 PM   #368
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After seeing what it is you do with those airplanes, I can see why re-habbing a little ol' trailer comes so easy for you! Now if you only had more time for it...
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Old 09-22-2010, 04:06 AM   #369
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door repair

Aerowood,

Looking at your photos of your inner door repair was helpful as I need to replace the skin on mine. I'm sure that to you it was a simple repair but it causes me anxiety to do it right.

I notice one my door the old skin goes on under the edge of the door. The one you did seems to go right to the edge of the door. Has this caused any difficulty?

How did you make the pattern for the new skin? How did you work out the hole for the inner lock assembly.

What is that piece on the edge of the door? When is it's function?

thanks for any assistance.
Robert
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Old 09-23-2010, 10:57 AM   #370
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The door frames are different between my 71 (mine is cast aluminum) and your door, which I believe is extruded aluminum. I used the old skin as a pattern,even though it was in rough shape. I just measured for the latch cutout as I changed the location and type. The stiffener on the side is there because I had to remove a lot of materail from the insde of the frame, so that the latch would protrude enough to seat into the stricker pocket.

If all you are doing is replacing the the inner skin only, I would just use the old skin as a pattern. If you do not have the old skin then you can use poster paper to make a template. Tape the paper well to the frame and then using a dirty finger rub around the holes and they will appear.
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Old 11-12-2010, 03:07 PM   #371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
... I also made a new internal rib and match drilled it along with cutting the hole for the new 41.00 latch. The new latch works much better then the old KT latch, and all it takes to close it is a gentle push. The built in deadbolt is a definite plus. I am going to finish up a few odds and ends and start shooting it together. The latch replacement is not for the faint of heart.
Kip, what's the new latch part number/manufacturer? I've finally had a unrepairable failure on the Caravel latch.

Look like you made a tray for the new latch, rather than a channel that fits over it. I am dismayed to find out that the internal door channel hides the old KT latch, so you've got to take out the solid rivets in order to get the darn thing out.

Zep
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:54 PM   #372
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My very wise son in law said after one year of marriage "I just do what she tells me to do and we get along just fine." I have to remind the husband of 34 years sometimes of the wisdom his son in law learned in just one year........
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:20 AM   #373
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Kip, what's the new latch part number/manufacturer? I've finally had a unrepairable failure on the Caravel latch.

Look like you made a tray for the new latch, rather than a channel that fits over it. I am dismayed to find out that the internal door channel hides the old KT latch, so you've got to take out the solid rivets in order to get the darn thing out.

Zep
31-3611
TRAVEL TRAILER
LOCKSET
QUICK-CORE tm SYSTEM
CHROME
43610-00-SP

There is also a sticker on the box that reads
FASTEC TRLR LK CHROME
864G
(barcode)
31-3611



You will most likely have to put a skin repair on the door if you do not re-skin it as the latch sets higher then the KT. I also had to mill a big chunk of the internal casting out, ond this required de-skinning the door.
The Screen door will also have to have one of the cross braces moved and re-welded on, to clear the latch. Like I said in my post, "This Mod is not for the Faint of Heart"
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:32 AM   #374
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Update

I have not had a chance to work on the GT for the past 2 years do to very hectic travel for my job. I am getting ready to travel again on the 29th of this month, and another trip to that country north of us in Feb. It looks like I will be able to resume work next spring as I only have one trip to the Virgin Islands in June and that will only be for a couple of weeks. So don't give up on me as I am still accumulating materials for the interior that is in kit form in my basement.

Kip
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:30 PM   #375
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Kip,
The wife and I want to hit the road for the holidays and go south for a change of scenery. What kind of grease should I use to do a repack on the GT bearings?

Have a great Christmas and regards to the wife.

Guiseppe & Maureen Margiotta,
Pagosa Springs, Co
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:08 AM   #376
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I use a Mil Spec aviation grease, go figure. I'm thimking that any high quality high temp bearing grease sold at any autoparts store will be OK.
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Old 12-14-2010, 08:42 AM   #377
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Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
Those are actually 10/32 pan head screws and 10/32 bolts. I installed floating self locking nutplates at all the old pop rivet locations. It makes removing and reinstalling the belly pan much easier.
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com.../nutplates.pdf
Kip, with this warm weather, I'm getting the insulation installed under the floor of the Safari. I was looking at the old rivet holes and wondering how the heck you got nutplates in the main frame? Also, you had stated that you picked up the holes from the old skin for the new skin. If your old skin isn't that good, how do you pick up a hole that's a couple feet from the edge? I my hole finders are only good for an inch or so.

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Old 12-15-2010, 12:51 PM   #378
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I installed the nutplates first, and then in order to pick up the holes in the belly pan I have some bolts with a center-punch tip pressed into the head. Put the panel up and hit the bolt with a hammer and it will leave a center-punch mark on the panel.

In order to install a nutplate inside a tube, cut the head off of a bolt the same thread size of the nutplate. Grind a flat on each side of the bolt shank, and then drill a small hole through the flats. To install the nutplate fish a piece of safety wire through the hole that requires the nutplate until the wire can be captured. Tie the bolt via the hole in the shank to the wire and then thread the bolt into the nutplate and the pull the nutplate into position and install with blind 3/32 rivets.
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