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Old 02-23-2008, 06:48 PM   #43
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Answer to post #31

Zep is right. Buttercup is close. This is an Argon Printer made by Fairchild Aircraft Co. Fairchild built photo reconissance airplanes in the 30s and 40s. Maybe a little later. The cameras were large flim format. After the negs were developed they used this printer to make the contact print. I don't know why they would not use smaller format cameras then an enlarger. Buttercup's suggestion the switches were used to control the lights for 'burning' areas of the exposure is right plus the knob on the front controls the elevation of the group of lights in the center. Orange C7 bulbs are safe lights. Some online research discovered that these old argon bulbs are a collector item. As you can see most of them work. I given this by a photograher friend in the 70s to 'play' with. Never did that. Now I think maybe an aircraft or World War 2 museum might like to include this one. Now back to Airstreaming.
Neil

P.S. I included a view of the photo chemical bottles on the shelf. I noticed while doing this the dates for the chemicals are '93 and '94. I've been away that long?!!!
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Old 03-01-2008, 03:24 PM   #44
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Roll #2

I just ran roll 2 and I am quite pleased with the results except for one little issue - stripes down most of the images. I think it is perhaps caused by not jumping on thet final rinse before fixer. Or perhaps it was because of not jumping on Part "B" right away after Part "A". I am hoping somebody can tell me what it is...

Anyway, here is a sampling of some of the pictures that came in...

BTW - Some of these shots were done with a LensBaby and sone were done with a .011 pinhole 50mm @ f/180. While the pinhole is not as sharp as the lens, it is quite interesting to see the results...
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Old 03-01-2008, 03:42 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buttercup
I just ran roll 2 and I am quite pleased with the results except for one little issue - stripes down most of the images. I think it is perhaps caused by not jumping on thet final rinse before fixer. Or perhaps it was because of not jumping on Part "B" right away after Part "A". I am hoping somebody can tell me what it is......
Two common causes of scratches are using a squeege to dry the negative or using reloadable film c assets which are prone to picking up dust in the small cloth barriers.
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Old 03-01-2008, 04:21 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
You gotta be kidding! With all your digital expertise you seem to be regressing. This is like driving from LA to NY in a hot car, then deciding to go back in a covered wagon.

On the other hand, I do love the tone and shadow detail you can get in a large B&W negative. Good luck.

Zep
Bravo Zepp! I can't believe I spent 15 years of my career suffering the stress of guessing the exact nature of the image until chemistry had worked it's magic - I did 500 weddings! I absolutely adore digital! So accessible, so dependable - and I think the big C-MOS chips on the modern Canons are up there with the best that film can resolve!

I did fall in love with that silver shadow when I first had a darkroom but now it's a great kick to see everything on the Mac in minutes!

Marc

some pics: http://www.silvertwinkie.co.uk/Marc....r/HomePage.htm
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Old 03-01-2008, 04:46 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen Disarray
Two common causes of scratches are using a squeege to dry the negative or using reloadable film c assets which are prone to picking up dust in the small cloth barriers.
I was meaning the darker (on the negs) streaks thet run from between the holes on the film. I don't have scratches that I can see on the film and what shows on my scans is actually dirt on my scanner.
You can see the streaks in this one...
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Old 03-01-2008, 04:51 PM   #48
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Tim, if those are next to the holes in the film, that sounds like a camera problem maybe.
Perry
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Old 03-01-2008, 04:53 PM   #49
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From thos pics, you are getting it in bright light situations.
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Old 03-01-2008, 05:03 PM   #50
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Actually, they are between the holes and I suspect as they are not straight with respect to each other are chemistry related... I do not believe that I had a light leak
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:57 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buttercup
I was meaning the darker (on the negs) streaks thet run from between the holes on the film. I don't have scratches that I can see on the film and what shows on my scans is actually dirt on my scanner.
You can see the streaks in this one..
I see what you are saying. It looks to me to be an issue related to how the film is loading onto the developing spools. It is a very symmetric pattern. If the film is going onto the spools wrong you can get uneven covering with chemistry and such markings.
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:54 PM   #52
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I checked the film before I took it off the spools and it looked like it was loaded correctly. No - I think what I did wrong was that I ran my Diafine "A" and dumped it back. Then poured in my Diafine "B", but did not immediately invert the day tank 2-3 times. I waited for the first 90 seconds to tick off and then inverted the tank so there has to still be some part "A" chemical on the film. I need to remember to invert when I first pour in chemicals.
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:12 AM   #53
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I'm not convinced. I believe that would have resulted in a more uniform problem whereas the one below is localized and repetitive in nature.

Quote:
I need to remember to invert when I first pour in chemicals.
Also don't forget to 'rap' the tank after changing chemistry to dislodge air bubbles.
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Old 03-03-2008, 10:40 AM   #54
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Right, right! That too. But what I did remember was to pull back a full stop to compensate for Diafine's push of a stop during developing. So my exposures were good.
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Old 03-03-2008, 11:20 AM   #55
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that looks like overdevelopment streaks, which could definitely be caused by your mistake in the A/B pouring you describe. a light leak probably would not be so "streaky" looking. diafine (and acufine) are really best at pushing, especially on tri-x and hi speed films (less contrast buildup than slow films) and you gotta love GRAIN when you use them. (I do). another superb dev you might want to try is AGfa Rodinal, which you can mix from Photographer's Forumulary if not commercially available. it's great with both slow and fast films but fast will be grainy. remember: grain is to a photograph as brushstroke is to painting.... yes, I'm an old dude

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