I got her!!! I'm a newbie and she's brand new to me. My first. I looked high and low form craig's list to every classified ad I could find and ended up knocking on the door of a man right near home...the airstream was not for sale but after a few visits and about 8 hours of being shown all his other projects (there were a lot, and they were cool) he decided to let this project go. There are a couple funny question about her that I would love some help figuring out. First is finding out all I can from the serial # it is 22D-0264, and below that there is another # 659 stamped into the plate near the door on the exterior. The PO was pretty sure it is a 1959 Flying cloud. I think he's right, but I'm not positive. I think the "D" is for the double bed model which jives and the "0" means its California made. Is there a way to know for sure which 22' model it is? I figue the second question will be subject to Montana laws...but I have the current MT registration and title which states that this Airstream is a 1969, and I know enough to know that it could not be...it has leaf springs on the single axel, seven panels and the beautiful door within a door feature. I hope to get it changed, but don't know if thats possible. I will post some pictures tonight...but in the mean time if anyone has any suggestions I'd appreciate it.
I think the 659 on the door tag would suggest it was made in June of '59. Our door tag has 8-58 on it, so we think it was an early unit for the '59 model year.
You shouldn't have too much trouble changing the year designation if you can find a willing participant at the DMV to help with it. They will want to see the rig to verify its year, and having it with you at the DMV will probably generate enough interest to get some help with it.
SNIP I got her!!! The serial # is 22D-0264, and below that there is another # 659 stamped into the plate near the door on the exterior. Thanks
Tyler
Welcome Tyler. You indeed have a '59 model Airstream made in June of 1959 that was made in the CA plant. Yea!!! Another '59 owner is on board. They are the best. The serial number should also be stamped in the curbside 'A' frame between where the frame goes under the shell and aft of the propane tank base. You should get the title updated if at all possible. There were a number of 22 foot models in 1959 and to determine which model you have is dependant on the interior layout nd the placement of the windows. A Caravanner, for instance has a long row of windows end to end on the streetside. Once you post your pictures, we'll get it figured out. The CA plant didn't use model name plates on their trailers in 1959 so determining model is by recognizing the identifying layout and window arrangements. Congratulations and welcome to the vast group of us with '59 models.
Did I ask you to post pictures? If not, please do and soon.
Brad
FF
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1
I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
Here are a few pictures. I don't have any good ones of the street side. There are three windows. One in the bathroom area, one over the sink and one near the front.
From your description and the one interior picture you've shown, I'd say she closely resembles this one here from RJ's archive page. The serial number verifies she's a Flying Cloud as it falls in line with RJ's reference. She looks like a beauty and now that you've figured out how to post pictures, more pleeeeze.
Brad
FF
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1
I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
Tyler, Nice find.Sounds more like she found you. This forums is a great place for info and to get your questions answered. I'm a ways south of you in Lander, Wy. Still in the midst of rebuilding a 58 cruiser/overlander. If your down this way feel free to visit or PM or email me if I can help with any info. Ed
I've done a little work since my last post...and I am happy to report that the title will now read correctly as a 1959 flying cloud. A signature from an officer on a title correction form and its back to the way it should be. For awhile there I thought it would be much harder to get this done.
The real work (demolition) began as well and I've made quite a mess. I have torn out the floor in the front now to match the back that the PO took care of, so there is only a section in the middle left, but its nice and solid. I've come up w/ a solution to secure the c channel to the plywood and would love some input on it. Its all in the hope that I can steer clear of a total shell off floor replacement. I have bought 1/4 twenty stainless steel bolts a matching washer w/ an outside diameter of 3/4" and a toggler snaptoggle from TOGGLER® Toggle Bolts, Anchors, Fasteners. This assembly ran me about $1.50 for each hole. My plan is to place the plywood and then hole saw 2" holes in the interior skin where I need the bolts...drill a new hole though the c channel just large enough to receive the snaptoggle contraption and then washer and bolt it down. The snaptoggle is rated to over 1000 lb each so I should be good. Then I'll go back and pop rivet some round patches over the holes.
[quote=Windy59;692841]I've come up w/ a solution to secure the c channel to the plywood and would love some input on it. Its all in the hope that I can steer clear of a total shell off floor replacement. I have bought 1/4 twenty stainless steel bolts a matching washer w/ an outside diameter of 3/4" and a toggler snaptoggle from TOGGLER® Toggle Bolts, Anchors, Fasteners. This assembly ran me about $1.50 for each hole. My plan is to place the plywood and then hole saw 2" holes in the interior skin where I need the bolts...drill a new hole though the c channel just large enough to receive the snaptoggle contraption and then washer and bolt it down. The snaptoggle is rated to over 1000 lb each so I should be good. Then I'll go back and pop rivet some round patches over the holes./quote]
I've never heard of using Toggle bolts in this way. I would be interested in reading about such an application. I've read a number of threads here where people have replaced the plywood floors without removing the shell. Why do you think this would be necessary?
Granted - the inside bottom skin would have to be removed , but I can't see how that would be that much more work than drilling and patching the skin.
Have you read some of the threads where the floor was replaced without removing the shell? I recently reread this one:
Please do not cut those holes in the side of that beauty. Look here thru the threads and get the right info on what you plan. Please no pop rivet scab patches....ahhhh the agony of it all.
You're moving fast! Good job. The wedding must be coming up soon?
If that is the method you use, you may want to pre-drill the 1/4" holes in the plywood where you want the bolts to go. Then you could glue an additional fender washer to the bottom side of the plywood. It would help give the snaptoggle better support on the ply.
I'd consider removing the bottom row of interior skin. That will give you a better view of the new plywood as it's getting installed, makes working with the bolts easier, and gives you access to wiring (if you're going to replace it). Shouldn't take much time to remove it and will make the finished product cleaner (no patches -- & there would be many).
How do you intend to insert the new plywood at front & back?
I like the stubby little drills sharpened for aluminum. I get them at Grainger but you could order them from Aircraft Spruce too. Should take about 2 hours to drill out all the rivets and remove the panels. I've always labeled the back sides of the panels, but it's not really necessary. Window frames (inside trim part) needs be partially pulled out at the bottom. I vote that it's worth it.
What is the process for removing the lower panels?
I've been reading the It's a girl post and they just flew by that...is it that easy?
Thanks
Don't drill holes & patch!!! There is no need to do a whole shell off restoration to replace the floor sections at the front and/or back. As you found in my "It's a Girl!!!" thread, we replaced our entire floor without removing the shell. You do have to remove the inside lower skins though - which is very easy to do. Just drill out the rivets and slide the panel out. When you are through, replace the rivets with standard 1/8" aluminum pop rivets. No problem. You'd be doing almost as many patch rivets by drilling holes at every bolt - they are about 9-12" o.c. along the entire perimeter. You (and your trailer's next owner) would regret it.
At the beginning of our restoration, we thought we would only be replacing the front and back portions too. However, we ran into the following issues that would have to be addressed if we did:
1) the new wood was not the same thickness as the old plywood. The old wood was 5/8" + the thickness of the floor tiles which went under the c-channels. We used 3/4" marine grade plywood because we could not find 5/8" marine grade. We also would not be able to put the new floorcovering (linoleum) under the channel at the front & back with 5/8" plywood - thus leaving a gap. The c-channel/wood floor connection is an integral part of the structure so we didn't want a gap or have a potential buckle at the exterior skin due to an uneven floor - either with 5/8" or 3/4".
2) the old plywood which was in good shape had the old VCT on it which was not easily removed. What portions we did attempt to remove damaged the plywood underneath which would have needed to be patched/filled/sanded.
As far as replacing the plywood goes, our entire floor was out and we did the two ends first which may have been easier than just doing the ends. The way we did it was to lay the new end pieces down flat on the frame but on an angle to the front/rear and rotate them into place. It did require a 2x4 and a big mallet to pound them into place, but it wasn't hard. However, with the existing middle section of floor in place like you are talking about, you wouldn't be able to lay the new end portions flat, they would be angled up on the existing floor section so it may not work (this was our #3 thought that should be included above). We also had the rivets on the exterior panels along the belt line removed which made the skin more flexible thus allowing the shell to flex a bit - which made it easier than you would think.
I've also heard of some folks who have replaced the end portions of the floor from the outside. They drill out the rivets along the beltline/c-channel and slide the new floor portions in from outside. You will still need to remove/replace the interior panels in order to access the c-channels, but it would alleviate the angled insertion over the existing floor. We considered this option (if we could have resolved 1 & 2 above), but in the end decided that if we were going to do it, we were going to do it right.
We are very happy with the results and would do it the same way if we had it to do over again. Regardless of if you decide to replace just the ends or the entire floor, I wouldn't let a few dozen pop-rivets be the determining factor - they are so easy to drill out and replace.
Shari
__________________
Vintage Airstream Club - Past President 2007/2008
WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005)
AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002
Thanks Insideout. This helps. I won't drill the holes. I want to take my time and do this right but I also need something resembling a trailer by early August and there are so many distractions. Speaking of distractions...PeeWee is in Missoula tomorrow @ Bretz RV. It will be fun to hear him speak.
This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.