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Old 11-04-2017, 08:16 PM   #1
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Winterizing a Basecamp

I checked the winterizing forum but this question seems pretty Basecamp specific. There are two valves in the Basecamp plumbing system, post March 2017, that I can't decide how they should be set. The water heater draining lever, according to the winterizing instructions, should be left at the "drainage" position. And drain the hot water tank it did. The Truma bypass valve (or so it is labelled; another thread in the forum seems to indicate it is a mixing line for hot and cold water) is supposed to be in the open position. I want to push antifreeze through the system, but I don't want to fill the water heater tank (2.64 gallons) with antifreeze and I want to avoid putting antifreeze in the Truma at all. Not sure how to go about this.

Anyone know how best to do that?
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Old 11-05-2017, 07:56 PM   #2
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So ... I have a question. I bought my BC a little over a year ago. It was winterized when I bought it. I drained all the water out of it. Last winter, I did not re-winterize it. It is parked in my carport, hooked up to shore power. When it's cold, I run the heater part of the AC unit in the ceiling. I open the door under the sink, open the bathroom door and prop open the seat that has all the Truma equipment in it. My thinking is all that stays warm because I have the heat on. My desire is to camp when it's cold out ... since I HATE summer. Am I wrong to not add anti-freeze? Will keeping the heat on be sufficient since I have all the doors open to the areas that might freeze?? Arkansas has pretty mild winters.
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Old 11-05-2017, 10:52 PM   #3
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You donít need antifreeze if youíve removed all the water. But draining the water doesnít necessarily remove all the water, water can accumulate in low points and when it freezes it will expand and pipes may break. You can use an air compressor and blow out (almost) all the water, and then antifreeze is unnecessary.

The Basecampís plumbing is pretty simple so draining and not trapping air in the pipes (so the frozen water can expand) may be good enough. But donít take my word for it. :-)
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:11 PM   #4
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Thanks, Troy. Airstream agrees with you. I called them today and talked with John in customer support. They recommend blowing out the water using an air compressor, and suggest you use the antifreeze "if you need additional protection." I also found out that the lever near the water pump---closer to you---is to control water going into the Truma. If you close it, no water goes into the water heater. If you have the fresh water plumbing diagram, it is the lever below the water pump.
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Old 11-09-2017, 10:48 AM   #5
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I am going to give this a go tonight. I think I'll start with blowing out with my air compressor.
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:21 AM   #6
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drain hot water heater

I think I am clear on everything except how do you drain water from the hot water heater?
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Old 11-09-2017, 12:02 PM   #7
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A standard Atwood 6 gallon water heater has a white plastic drain plug at the bottom left corner of the tank, usually with the copper gas supply line and its fittings right in the way in front of it...

Best bet is a combination box/open end wrench in the right size, and a few choice words to get it out, as it is a pain in the butt to get to. Some have changed it out with a brass or stainless steel adapter, a short section of stainless steel hose from the big box store, and a small valve. Search the Winterization threads for the idea...

When you replace the plug, use several wraps of good Teflon tape, and be careful not to cross-thread the plug or round the corners. do not over-tighten, as it is plastic... It's a good idea to purchase and carry a spare...
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:32 PM   #8
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I believe our Truma system is insta-hot so it's tankless.
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Old 11-09-2017, 02:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickgeo View Post
I think I am clear on everything except how do you drain water from the hot water heater?
Check this thread here for more info on this:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f404...ve-174726.html
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:17 AM   #10
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OK! I did my winterization last night. Here is what I did as the AS BC manual is quite generic and certainly not BC specific in the least.

1. Opened up the fresh water tank drain underneath.
2. Turned the bypass valve #7 to the open position and #8 to the closed position. I need to look more into the function of the #8 valve.
3. Opened up the sink and shower for hot and cold.
4. Turned on the 12V pump to get all the water out.
5. Opened the low point drain which is a lever that flips up positioned right in front of the Truma unit.
6. Hooked up 50 PSI of compressed air to the city water connection keeping the sink, shower and low point drain open. Also flushed the toilet a few times.
7. Undid the inlet and the outlet from the 12V pump (through the triangle access panel). Turned on the pump a couple of times while having a rag on the outside facing connection. That's the outlet. Small amount of water came out.

Tonight I will add some RV antifreeze to the shower drain and sink drain that will hopefully work it's way into the combined black / gray tank. I did forget what the two brass valves on the bottom of the water tank are. Need to figure that out. I did notice the overall workmanship for the HVAC, water and electrical is not very good at all. Everything is so packed in there. Access is limited. Lines are not secured properly. Wiring not dressed cleanly. Insulation around the hot air ducting is sporadic and missing in some areas. It also looks like the pex piping and fittings were installed in a sequence that does not aid in servicing. The outlet of the pump pex fitting was likely installed first and then piped out. The pex was installed too tight so while I could get the nut off the pump outlet, there really is no easy way of getting it back on without risking cross threading. I think if I unscrew the fitting at the pressure relief valve (where it is fastened to the floor), I'll have the wiggle room I need.
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:55 AM   #11
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Actually the Truma AquaGo water heaters do have a very small water tank. There is a yellow pull out water dump lever on our Aqua Go Comfort models that I have installed in both our 23D and 31' Classic. So one does have to make sure that both the propane tank valve(s) are off as well as the switch is off to the 12Vdc logic board.
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Old 11-12-2017, 06:03 PM   #12
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Questions for winter camping

I have a couple of questions .... it's been months since I read all the info on my BC and I don't remember some of it. For the solar panels to charge the battery, does the battery need to be turned on? I know the battery has to be turned on when it is plugged up to shore power in order for the battery to charge, just not sure about the solar. IF ... the solar doesn't work ... some folks hasn't ... won't that drain my battery? Second question: Does the underbelly heater run off propane??
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Old 11-12-2017, 06:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basecamp516 View Post
Thanks, Troy. Airstream agrees with you. I called them today and talked with John in customer support. They recommend blowing out the water using an air compressor, and suggest you use the antifreeze "if you need additional protection." I also found out that the lever near the water pump---closer to you---is to control water going into the Truma. If you close it, no water goes into the water heater. If you have the fresh water plumbing diagram, it is the lever below the water pump.
Okay ... so I'll take the hit here ... blow out the water from where? The kitchen sink, the bathroom floor drain, the toilet, or all of those??
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Old 11-14-2017, 07:13 PM   #14
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You want to blow it out from all of them. I'd recommend having at least one open faucet, shower, drain valve, etc.

And I did finally open those two brass valves on the bottom of the freshwater tank. A small amount of water did come out. This is after I drained the white plastic petcock drain valve and blew everything out with the air compressor. I am not clear what these brass valves serve. However, I am inclined to think they are picking up low points in the tank.
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