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Old 08-22-2007, 07:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobfowler
I made an appointment at Colonial for Friday to see if they can find out what's going on.
I be interested to know what they say- and if they are fans of running gear balancing.
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Old 08-23-2007, 07:30 AM   #16
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Two ways to eliminate the whole running gear stuff.

Get the Centric discs about $70+- a wheel.

Or Dyna Beads about $6 a wheel.

Same theory on both, both work great.

I have the beads going 13K miles this year.
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:50 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
hey bob

we aren't allowed to take photos on the tour anymore...

so here is a pic of the bcamp shell....

enjoy!

cheers
2air'
HOLY CRAP! How cool is THAT!!! Thanks!
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:52 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
the drums come from dexter also, correct? i would still contact them about this you are under warranty.

are the tires contis?

many of us (my track club) with stock contis in 40/45 series have had issues with out of round tires.

i've had 7 of 8 replaced on new cars because they were TOO asymmetrical to correct with the hunter road force balancer.

terry's offer to road force is worth some bucks!

my concern with these 45 series tires would be flat spotting from prolonged parking; this is common on lower profile tires.

some tires i've had need 10 miles of driving to correct and others 25 or more.

the solution for me, besides switching tire brands,

was to inflate the tires 3-5 psi higher (when parked) that the vehicle guide, but still under max cold inflation pressure,

then quickly bleed some pressure b4 driving.

given how long an rv can sit unused it is very likely those tires will flat spot...

so consider some easy way to raise this trailer off the wheels when not in use....

of course none of this finds or fixes the leak...

cheers
2air'
The tires are Goodyear Eagle GT's. As for developing flat spots, I move it in and out of the driveway (with a couple of miles up and down the highway) every couple of weeks for just that reason.
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Old 08-23-2007, 09:20 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LI Pets
Two ways to eliminate the whole running gear stuff.

Get the Centric discs about $70+- a wheel.

Or Dyna Beads about $6 a wheel.

Same theory on both, both work great.

I have the beads going 13K miles this year.
The beads look interesting, I might have to give them a try. Their website has a warning about low profile tires, so I'll call them first and talk to them about my application.
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:17 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobfowler
The tires are Goodyear Eagle GT's. As for developing flat spots, I move it in and out of the driveway (with a couple of miles up and down the highway) every couple of weeks for just that reason.
Bob,

Have you considered putting the trailer up on jack stands when you park it to get the tires up off the ground. You wouldn't get flat spots that way and it would save you towing it around every couple of weeks.

Barry
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Old 08-23-2007, 02:24 PM   #21
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The military reduces pressure in tires after raising weight off them - 15psi for storage is what I've read for 'mothballing' vehicles...
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Old 08-23-2007, 04:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by safari57
Bob,

Have you considered putting the trailer up on jack stands when you park it to get the tires up off the ground. You wouldn't get flat spots that way and it would save you towing it around every couple of weeks.

Barry
No, I haven't. Being realistic here for a second, just how often should we HAVE to tow our trailers (have v. want). There is no reason in the world that I can think of that I should "have" to hitch up every two weeks and tow for ten or twenty miles to prevent flat spots on my tires, much less keep the trailer up on stands if it's going to sit a couple of weeks.

I'm thinking it would be better to get rid of the 20" rims and 275/45 tires and going with "standard" 15" Airstream rims and Marathons. I called Airstream this afternoon to discuss just that with them (as a warranty issue), but they were not receptive to the idea. The person I spoke with claimed that they use a different axle for the trailers with 20" rims than the ones with 15" rims. Since there is a difference in 1.5" in tire diameter between the two (28.3" for ST225/75R15 and 29.8" for P275/45R20 according to the Goodyear website), I find it impossible to believe the lowering of the chassis 3/4" would require a different axle.

From all of the reading I've done in the past couple of days, those tires (275/45R 20 Goodyear Eagle GT II) are not designed to be used on trailers. I'm going to bring it up with Colonial and see if they can get Airstream's attention more than I could. If the problem is indeed the brake drums/wheels/tires (and I'm pretty sure the root cause is there), the problem won't go away by itself. I'm perfectly willing to bring the trailer back to the dealer after every rainstorm to get the leaks fixed if that's what it takes. Sooner or later, someone will get the message and FIX the problem.
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Old 08-23-2007, 05:11 PM   #23
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hi bob

yea that was my point about the 20s...

they aren't much good for trailers OR tow vehicles...

as noted in posts #12 and 20 here...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f438...ize-25739.html

isn't the bcamp available 2 axle options +/- 500 lbs?

perhaps therein lies the difference...

even if the running gear isn't the cause of d'leaks....

opting for 15s or 16s on the trailer is wise.

once again the ONLY functional reason for 20s is to accommodate bigger brakes.

did the bcamp come with a spare tire or a roll of tape?

cheers
2air'
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Old 08-23-2007, 05:52 PM   #24
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As I've said before in other threads, most (if not all) 20" tires are not rated for trailer use, either towing or being towed. I know Airstream's idea was to help make the trailer more high-performance, thus the low pro tires, but low-pro tires RIDE ROUGH. They will transmit more road sock to the trailer than higher profile tires, as there is less sidewall to flex and absorb impacts.
If you don't want the low-pro tires on your basecamp, try finding a pair of LT 16" tires and wheels that will be of a comparable height. You will notice two things: 1- the trailer will ride more smoothly, and 2- the trailer will tend to sway more.
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Old 08-23-2007, 06:07 PM   #25
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Bob

I was wondering why you were towing your trailer every now and then. If you knew something about the 20" tires I have yet to learn (I do have a lot to learn about a lot of things , some of them I knew once and have forgotten)

I have several vehicles, some with low profile tires. They sit around, a lot more now than when I was the primary driver but anyways, they sit for sometimes months at a time till I convince the lady of my life to take me for a toot in one. I hook up the battery and off we go. Nary a problem with flat spots on the tires. The last time I had a flat spot happen with a radial was better than 20 years ago and I attribute part of that to the fact that the tire was sitting on dirt and not cement or gravel for several years between moves.

Anyway, I do lift my trailer up for the winter but for a different reason. After raising it to re-grease the wheel bearings, grease the axle/spring Zerk's, and check everything underneath for tightness and to ensure it's nicely sealed up from critters for the winter I'm too lazy to take it back down. It may as well sit in the air for the winter, after all, it is an Air stream .

That's my take on it at least for what it's worth.

Barry
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Old 08-23-2007, 06:15 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safari57
It may as well sit in the air for the winter, after all, it is an Air stream .
Groan...
I have found the flat-spotted tires, at least around here, come from months of not moving, and the air slowly coming out of them. Once they get to a certain point, the tires will take a 'set', kind of like the old bias tires did. Unlike the bias tires, though, they seem to remain unround (is that a word?) for quite a while.
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