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Old 03-04-2019, 04:13 PM   #29
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Youíll have to remove the charge controller on your portable panel and wire it into the sunexplorer in your basecamp, you canít have two solar controllerís. sunexplore solar charge controller can handle up to 40 amps on most basecamps,
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Old 03-06-2019, 06:22 AM   #30
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Iíve used the Zamp portable 160 Watt panels successfully for 3 years to recharge my AGM batteries at sites when we have no 30 Amp power. The problem I had was how to charge batteries on the day of departure after a night without AC power. We would artive at our next site with partially depleted batteries. I purchased a Yakima ďOff GridĒ roof rack (see photo) and mounted the Zamp solar panels to it using nylon straps, cushioning under the panels, and cable locks for security. I simply connect the solar panel to my batteries as usual but can now charge as I drive to our new destination. This has worked very well during my recent test on the way to Death Valley from Orange County in preparation for an Alaska ttip this summer,.



An added advantage is I can position the Zamp wherever I get best benefits while camped yet get total recharge on the day of travel.


Iím confused. I thought the trailer batteries change from the tow vehicle when running.
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Old 03-06-2019, 10:55 PM   #31
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Iím confused. I thought the trailer batteries change from the tow vehicle when running.
Iíve been confused, too.

Iíll defer to, and welcome comment from, those with more knowledge of auto alternators and the Airstream electrical systems, but my experience and limited reading suggests that only minimal battery recharging occurs while driving. I also understand that running the refrigerator while driving consumes electricity, as do other phantom draws like the lpg detector.

On numerous occasions I have started a day-long drive with fully charged (and favorable tests of my AGM batteries in the Airstream) after being on shore power the previous night only to arrive at my destination with partially discharged batteties (usually about 12.5V on the Airstream gauge and also using a volt meter at the battery terminal).

My electronic vehicle information center (EVIC) shows my alternator (TV has a factory tow package) to be putting out 14 V and several independent tests of the battery and alternator by mechanics have been good. I maintain clean and tight connections to the batteties and the 7-pin connector.

I know the batteries should rest for a few hours before testing in order to obtain an accurate reading, but thatís not usually practical while on a trip.
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:22 AM   #32
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Ok I checked my TV manual. I have several fuses designated for towing. One for ďtrailer tow battery chargeĒ.

Someone with more knowledge (not guessing) PLEASE chime in because Iím only guessing.

It all has to do with how many amps/hr the TV puts out vs how many amps/hr the trailer is asking for.

1. If I am running nothing in my trailer, the trailer battery should charge fine. Because nothing is using any of the TV output.
2. If I am running very little in my trailer, as in the refrigerator on LP so just the circuit board is using current, the trailer battery should charge slower. Because the circuit board is using some of the TV output.
3. If I am running the refrigerator on the 12v heater, the battery may not charge. If the 12v heater is drawing more amperage/hr than the TV can put out.
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