2017 Basecamp Issues

[randsfl]

had back door replaced the day after we picked up - leaked badly first night home
luckily we had rain - we don't get much in fla outside the summer and we don't camp then

first long trip - leaked during rain while driving - went through JC - they redid seals and some caulking and i asked for beefier top socket since mine was bent - noticed at dealers that top socket was bent on all i looked at

second long trip - rained first night out and spent rest of trip with garbage bag duct taped to door - noticed you need the "right volume" of rain - hard it ran off roof without hitting door - light the gutter and seals worked - so it was like a study rain did it and it was how it flowed off roof over gutter in middle (roof bowed to channel there) - thats why hose tests didn't really show leaks

i have heard 2018 and maybe late 2017 have wider gutter and complete seal around door (have done some dusty roads and complete seal would be nice - i will probably install as others have) - also, the roof design does channel the water to center of door)

long story - so now i haven't been out in rain yet but they replaced the locking rod with longer one I'm told - sounds like your problem

will report back - next long trip apr may jun

thanks to all for input to forums - reid

[switz]

Wonder if the door needs a "fine tuning" bend to properly fit the contour of the opening without a latch being used? Have seen the "bend to fit" process in use at the factory more than once.

[AirstreamInc]

Hi dickgeo,

We're very sorry to learn about the issue you described in your Basecamp. Please send us a direct message with your contact information and the last 6 digits of your VIN so we can share it with our Customer Service and Technical Support team.

You can also reach Airstream Customer Service and Technical Support at customer_support@airstream.com

We look forward to helping you get this resolved.

[badgeruw]

Originally Posted by randsfl

had back door replaced the day after we picked up - leaked badly first night home
luckily we had rain - we don't get much in fla outside the summer and we don't camp then

first long trip - leaked during rain while driving - went through JC - they redid seals and some caulking and i asked for beefier top socket since mine was bent - noticed at dealers that top socket was bent on all i looked at

second long trip - rained first night out and spent rest of trip with garbage bag duct taped to door - noticed you need the "right volume" of rain - hard it ran off roof without hitting door - light the gutter and seals worked - so it was like a study rain did it and it was how it flowed off roof over gutter in middle (roof bowed to channel there) - thats why hose tests didn't really show leaks

i have heard 2018 and maybe late 2017 have wider gutter and complete seal around door (have done some dusty roads and complete seal would be nice - i will probably install as others have) - also, the roof design does channel the water to center of door)

long story - so now i haven't been out in rain yet but they replaced the locking rod with longer one I'm told - sounds like your problem

will report back - next long trip apr may jun

thanks to all for input to forums - reid

I had the same problem and was finally able to catch the leak in action. You're right - if it rains just the right amount you'll get the leak. Too much and the water shoots off the roof and over the gutter/top seal of the door. Too little and it's caught by the gutter as it runs off the roof. However, just the right amount and it'll jump the gutter, hit the black casing around the door and go in through the seal. I took mine in to get fixed and my dealer, WindishRV in Denver, said that despite postings to the contrary Airstream does NOT make a wider replacement gutter. Rather, Airstream instructed my dealer to shim out the existing gutter and to seal around it. They did so. Eyeballing it it's about 1/4" further out from the camper body. Hopefully that's enough to do the job.

[randsfl]

badger thanks for the info - i would think more then a sham and caulk - perhaps a insert between guitar and body that was solid and ran length of gutter and seal with caulk

i am either going to fabricate that and insert to push out gutter - or more likely an acrylic deflector to afix under gutter that sticks out over door beyond gutter a inch or two - also someone created a roof dam to deflect water away from middle of door when running of roof

just an aside, does anyone use the messages here - i have wrote some to individuals and was wonder if that is appropriate

[Gail Miller]

Originally Posted by randsfl

had back door replaced the day after we picked up - leaked badly first night home
luckily we had rain - we don't get much in fla outside the summer and we don't camp then

first long trip - leaked during rain while driving - went through JC - they redid seals and some caulking and i asked for beefier top socket since mine was bent - noticed at dealers that top socket was bent on all i looked at

second long trip - rained first night out and spent rest of trip with garbage bag duct taped to door - noticed you need the "right volume" of rain - hard it ran off roof without hitting door - light the gutter and seals worked - so it was like a study rain did it and it was how it flowed off roof over gutter in middle (roof bowed to channel there) - thats why hose tests didn't really show leaks

i have heard 2018 and maybe late 2017 have wider gutter and complete seal around door (have done some dusty roads and complete seal would be nice - i will probably install as others have) - also, the roof design does channel the water to center of door)

long story - so now i haven't been out in rain yet but they replaced the locking rod with longer one I'm told - sounds like your problem

will report back - next long trip apr may jun

thanks to all for input to forums - reid

My 2017 has the wider gutter. I installed additional seal, so it goes all the way around, myself. I bought it by the foot at a local RV place.

[randsfl]

checking things now

1) the air conditioning unit on roof - the back half the cover is not slotted - it hangs over edge freely - is this common on other BCs - thanks for responses

2) gail can't find your back door fix - could u send pic of what it looks like now - thanks

3) does anyone use the messaging capability here - should we just post things to others for all - worried about clutter (like trying to reach people that have specific things in common - may not even be issues) - have messaged 9 people with no response yet

i appreciate all the activity here - thanks all

[FricknFrack]

After seeing several posts about roof leaks and water getting into the wall and shorting out the Truma panel, I got up on top of my BC and found 6 plastic moulding caulk sites along the roof edge that have ALL completely deteriorated and could easily let rain flow down into the walls. The old caulking on all 6 spots along the moulding pretty much crumbled with just my fingers. Here's a before & after example of one of the spots I fixed. I used Sikaflex urethane filler at the recommendation of the service manager at my AS dealer.

[Rocinante]

Sorry this caulk degraded so completely in such a short period of time. Using Sikaflex seems an excellent suggestion. You may be able to get it in black, as well as white, if you care. We've been very happy with Sikaflex where we've used it on our trailer.

Similar rules about checking the integrity of all caulk and seals applies to standard Airstream trailers as well: check all seams and caulked areas at least once a year, preferably every six months, and repair as needed.

One other thought: it usually pays to remove as much of the old caulk as possible (preferably all of it) before applying new caulk. This is in part because sometimes differing caulks don't stick to each other. (Honestly, I don't always take this step either, so I'm not "Mr. Purity" in this regard.) Anyway, keep an eye on it. If it works well, you can save the clean-up for next time you have to renew these seals.

[FricknFrack]

Originally Posted by Rocinante

Sorry this caulk degraded so completely in such a short period of time. Using Sikaflex seems an excellent suggestion. You may be able to get it in black, as well as white, if you care. We've been very happy with Sikaflex where we've used it on our trailer.

Similar rules about checking the integrity of all caulk and seals applies to standard Airstream trailers as well: check all seams and caulked areas at least once a year, preferably every six months, and repair as needed.

One other thought: it usually pays to remove as much of the old caulk as possible (preferably all of it) before applying new caulk. This is in part because sometimes differing caulks don't stick to each other. (Honestly, I don't always take this step either, so I'm not "Mr. Purity" in this regard.) Anyway, keep an eye on it. If it works well, you can save the clean-up for next time you have to renew these seals.

The caulk used on those seams was different than the caulk used everywhere else and was much lower quality and more brittle. It was literally dried out and crumbling. Point taken though - something to always keep an eye on regularly.

[MrKenmore]

What Sikaflex product exactly was recommended? I have the cracks as well.

[FricknFrack]

Originally Posted by MrKenmore

What Sikaflex product exactly was recommended? I have the cracks as well.

I didn't get an exact recommendation - just to use Sikaflex. The products all look like they are urethane and I just grabbed one that was a patch/filler product.

[switz]

I believe I saw a choice of white or silver at the Airstream store a few years back. I just carry silver...

[Rocinante]

We have used Sikaflex 221 on our trailer with very good results, so you may find this to be equally useful on the Basecamp. Best wishes for an incredibly successful repair.

[MrKenmore]

It appears Dap 18816 Polyurethane Construction Adhesive and Sealant may be an equivalent. It's readily available in black (https://www.amazon.com/18816-Polyure...ords=dap+18816). I am going to give that product a try. I would have ideally purchased Sikaflex 221 in black but was having difficulty sourcing it in time so I can wrap up the work this weekend.

[gouchodon]

We have the same issue on the roof of ours. Original “sealant” cracked wide open within 4 months of purchase. Wonder if that’s what shorted our original truma controller...
Have had it undercover all winter but glad to know there are some options other than another trip to the dealer.

[Glamp4M]

Am joining the group. Purchased my 2018 Basecamp a year ago, noisy fans added, but still does not cool. As a landscape builder/designer, there are very few refrigerators that truly function after the temperature rises above 80 degrees. My dumb opinion is it is a combination of design and product. The Dometic refrigerator is an on going problem with Airstream trailers. My 2008 Safari at least cools, albeit freezes my food and always has had this problem. Meanwhile, other AS associates, including those with newer models, have both too cold or not cold enough issues.
Seems to me, the Basecamp issue is a "hotter" topic as this vehicle was made to go off the grid. And the refrigerator does not work on propane.
Hope this was not too redundant. So is there an answer or help somewhere?

[OTRA15]

Welcome to the forum! FYI there is the Simple Survey . . . thread about the BC fridge. It is not pretty reading, but is the most current source of info for that specific subject.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f404...ne-169937.html

. . . warning . . . rough road ahead!

You might want to read the last 20-30 posts before tackling the entire thread IMO.

Good luck,

Peter

[AirstreamInc]

Originally Posted by Glamp4M

Am joining the group. Purchased my 2018 Basecamp a year ago, noisy fans added, but still does not cool. As a landscape builder/designer, there are very few refrigerators that truly function after the temperature rises above 80 degrees. My dumb opinion is it is a combination of design and product. The Dometic refrigerator is an on going problem with Airstream trailers. My 2008 Safari at least cools, albeit freezes my food and always has had this problem. Meanwhile, other AS associates, including those with newer models, have both too cold or not cold enough issues.
Seems to me, the Basecamp issue is a "hotter" topic as this vehicle was made to go off the grid. And the refrigerator does not work on propane.
Hope this was not too redundant. So is there an answer or help somewhere?

Hi Glamp4M,*

We're very sorry to learn about the issue you are having. Please send us a direct message with your contact information and the last 6 digits of your VIN so we can share it with our Customer Service and Technical Support team. We look forward to helping you get this resolved.

You can also reach Airstream Customer Service and Technical Support at*customer_support@airstream.com*

Thank you.*

[BC18]

Dometic was not cooling, so my Dealer added a fan. It was still about seven degrees warmer than optimum temp. Problem solved after cutting an opening in the back of the propane tank case which was obstructing air flow in front of the fan(s).

The new opening allows air to circulate from under the tank casing and in front of the fan(s).

We thought of the blockage of air flow after installing the second fan. We’re not sure you need a second fan. I would ask your Dealer to cut a clean square opening in the back of the propane case before adding a second fan.