2017 Basecamp Issues

[Gail Miller]

Originally Posted by Tom P.

...Otra15 is right... so I put a 1" diam. dowel from the base of the catch to the interior frame, which is further supported by the galley counter, all set in and shimmed generously with West 610 - no flexing here - The catch on the door is on the frame under the window - Now it works as intended! Catches open with the slightest movement, and solid enough if it gets thrown open. File this under Not Necessary But Sure Is Nice.

Do you have a photo of that ... I can't envision exactly what you did.

[Tom P.]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x5fanflf7s...50.21.mp4?dl=0

Hope you can see this - i adjusted the bumper and catch a little to minimize the jiggle. Engages with very little jiggle now.

[FricknFrack]

Here's a couple of new problems...anybody else noticing these rust issues on the main and back doors of their BCs? The rivets all along the bottom of the main door have rust around them. On the back door that is some kind of contact switch - connected to what I have no idea - and those two pushpin switches have rusted to the point where they don't hardly even move now. Attachment 1

[Bborzell]

I have not seen rust around any of the door rivets. However, the two spring loaded contact points in the rear door frame are providing power to the license plate light and mine had light rust on them.

I sanded the rust away and applied some dielectric grease to them. No more rust so far, anyway.

[switz]

Looks like steel rivets rusting....

[OTRA15]

Ditto

[Gail Miller]

Originally Posted by Bborzell

I have not seen rust around any of the door rivets. However, the two spring loaded contact points in the rear door frame are providing power to the license plate light and mine had light rust on them.

I sanded the rust away and applied some dielectric grease to them. No more rust so far, anyway.

I checked mine today and I did not see any rust. As a preventative, I bought some dielectric grease and put on my rear door contact points. Thank you for that info!!!!

[BkroadTravlr]

The Basecamp manual says to isolate the Truma system before pumping antifreeze into the system. It would seem like that is the most critical piece of the system to winterize. Is there a reason to not pump antifreeze through the Truma? I can't seem to be able to close the line valves to isolate it anyway. Is there a trick to turning those valves without breaking them?
I have done all the draining and jacking the front up and down, but I'm worried there still may be some water in the system. I don't want to take it to the dealer until spring, hoping they will get all of the issues worked out with the fridge.

[Flats]

Not being confident that the current fridge fix is the way to go, and understanding that poor circulation may be the culprit, as well as seeing the box as useless, I went with the naked look. Prepped and painted the propane tanks and mounting parts with aluminum colored paint. The weather has cooled somewhat here in the south, but during a recent 5-day outing the fridge functioned perfectly.

[OTRA15]

An excellent approach -- thanks for the photo, and welcome to the forum! I have quoted you in the Simple Survey thread which has focused on the fridge.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f404...ne-169937.html

Have a good weekend.

Peter

[Bborzell]

Originally Posted by Flats

Not being confident that the current fridge fix is the way to go, and understanding that poor circulation may be the culprit, as well as seeing the box as useless, I went with the naked look. Prepped and painted the propane tanks and mounting parts with aluminum colored paint. The weather has cooled somewhat here in the south, but during a recent 5-day outing the fridge functioned perfectly.

At the risk of raining (so to speak) on your idea, I feel lke I should mention that I asked the techs at Jackson Center about doing pretty much what you have done here. They responded that removing the tank cover might aid venting and consequently allow the fridge to operate more as designed, but that the tank cover actually served to block rain intrusion into the vent screens from the immediate front of the trailer.

Some of the early leaks came about as a result of inadequate caulking around the perimeter of the vent frames but not from rain being driven in to the vents themselves. It is my understanding that the only thing that ensures that rain will not be driven into the vents while towing or from rain being driven from the front is the tank cover.

For your sake, I hope I have been given bad information.

[OTRA15]

Good points, especially the one about towing, when the absence of the propane cover could also permit [encourage?] rain, and road moisture, to be driven into the vents by air pressure.

Thus, earlier calls for a total re-design -- moving the fridge to the traditional side location, with a flue through the roof -- may start to seem reasonable, when AS runs out of Bandaids for this bad design?

[Tom P.]

Originally Posted by Flats

Not being confident that the current fridge fix is the way to go, and understanding that poor circulation may be the culprit, as well as seeing the box as useless, I went with the naked look. Prepped and painted the propane tanks and mounting parts with aluminum colored paint. The weather has cooled somewhat here in the south, but during a recent 5-day outing the fridge functioned perfectly.

Good job! Please keep us up to date - for fridge performance and rain/ leak issues. Fyi, my fridge operates well for periods of time, then goes rogue: used to get warm in sept and Oct, now freezes produce, leftovers, and milk.

[OTRA15]

Tom, do you have the sliding thermistor on a fin inside the fridge, to adjust the temp in theory, as JDKnight reported on the Simple Survey thread, which has focused on the fridge issues:

[click on orange arrow in quote to go to that thread]

Originally Posted by JDKnight

. . .
Our fridge does have the slider like the one in this video, but doesn’t have the scale sticker on the wall.
. . .

Gail Miller reported on that thread that she does have the thermistor, but that it does not seem to make a difference.

Thanks,

Peter

[Flats]

Good points that I hadn't considered. One reason that I had pulled the box off in the first place was to treat all the corrosion that had developed on the bolts and washers attaching the box (a couple of washers literally crumbled as I removed them), as well as the threaded rod, "wing nut" and bracket securing the tanks. Surprising how corroded all those parts were in the nine months since new. The contact points on the trailer frame where the bolts secured the box were also corroded.

So, the box also serves as a rain shield? Any work-around will create the same issue of restricting air flow. I guess I'll let it go at least until I go towing on a rainy day and see if it is in fact an issue. With the box removed, access to the vents allows them to be easily removed in order to have a look inside.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by Flats

. . . a couple of washers literally crumbled as I removed them . . .
Surprising how corroded all those parts were in the nine months since new. The contact points on the trailer frame where the bolts secured the box were also corroded.
. . .

How much more would it cost to use stainless steel washers, bolts and nuts?

Shameful cost-cutting IMO. No wonder AS has so many QC issues, with such poor planning and vision from Thor the parent company.

[BkroadTravlr]

Just got Wallie back from the dealer service dept. after having them do the service memo on the fridge. They added insulation around the fridge, baffles at the coil and another fan for air movement. They also added another battery to take care of the additional power draw. There was a die cut seal put over the gap where the vent fits into the access opening. Work was also done to prevent rain water from entering the living space.
I will have to wait to see if the fridge cools better, but the additional fan noise may be a problem. Could someone post again the info on the silent computer fans. I may want to replace the factory fans at some point. I also don't like the idea that I will have to destroy the seal if I need to access the fridge compartment. That seems like a short-sighted solution.

[OTRA15]

Thanks for the update. I just replied in the Simple Survey thread which has focused on the fridge issues, in hopes that the focused audience there will have some guidance for you.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...-11811-11.html

Cheers,

Peter

[KayakGa]

Probably my last post for Base Camp; 1 yr and still issues with leaking behind refrigerator- My dealer is buying it back and I am starting over; sad that Airstream will leave dealers responsible to continue to attempt to fix and then resell. Considering Lance 1575 and 16 ft Sport; but almost afraid to continue with Airstream. Made in America. Such a disappointment.

[Jazgrass]

Traded my Basecamp for a Bambi, very satisfied.
Looking forward to a much happier year and season.
Good luck to you in your resolution.
Jz