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Old 10-20-2017, 08:21 AM   #781
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2017 Basecamp
Superior , Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickgeo View Post
I travel a lot on dusty roads and notice a lot of dust in my Basecamp. I know the back door does not seal well but will dust enter thru the vents in front of the refrigerator?

Thanks
I noticed this too when driving down a dusty road. Dust for sure can enter the front vents behind the propane tanks. Because the fridge compartment isn't airtight, the dust can enter the cabin.
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Old 10-20-2017, 08:24 AM   #782
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Superior , Colorado
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Originally Posted by dickgeo View Post
Will someone please check their Basecamp and tell me if the drivers side, rear, overhead storage netting has one or 2 support straps screwed into the ceiling. The passenger side netting has 2 such straps.

I worry about putting too much weight up there because the only real supports are the end brackets screwed into the walls.

Thanks
I only have one too on the roadside (driver's side) of the camper. Note, however, that the front of the storage frame on that side is bolted to the side of the bathroom giving it extra support whereas the one on the curbside of the camper is only attached to the camper wall itself, front and back. That one needs the extra support.
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Old 10-20-2017, 08:36 AM   #783
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Superior , Colorado
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Basecamp Rear Door Leak

I have finally captured my Basecamp rear door leak in action. Turns out, when water is running off the roof at just the right speed, it can "jump" the rain gutter and hit the black facia surrounding the door. It then runs down the seam between the door and the frame, and because the seal isn't beefy enough it enters the cabin. (If the water is going fast enough, it lands on the door itself and runs down harmlessly. If it's going slow enough, it lands in the gutter and runs down harmlessly.) The fix is 1. a wider gutter so the water never lands on the facia, and 2. a beefier seal. I have tried to upload video, both inside and outside. If that didn't work, I have also posted them on Youtube:

https://youtu.be/h3n8y4JMXiY
https://youtu.be/k3_IHhHgVDo
Attached Files
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Old 10-20-2017, 08:51 AM   #784
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2017 16' Sport
Suwanee , GA
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It seems like after all this time Airstream would get the hint recall everybody's Basecamp I too had a base camp on hold almost 2 years ago and because I wanted a regular bed decided to go to the sport 16 instead.

In hindsight it was a good idea for me but I'm still sorry for everything everybody's going through.

I would suggest that Airstream take the first six of any kind of new unit and put it on the road for about 6 months before they bring it out to the public
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Old 10-20-2017, 11:01 AM   #785
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2017 Basecamp
Seattle , Washington
Join Date: Feb 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badgeruw View Post
I have finally captured my Basecamp rear door leak in action. Turns out, when water is running off the roof at just the right speed, it can "jump" the rain gutter and hit the black facia surrounding the door. It then runs down the seam between the door and the frame, and because the seal isn't beefy enough it enters the cabin. (If the water is going fast enough, it lands on the door itself and runs down harmlessly. If it's going slow enough, it lands in the gutter and runs down harmlessly.) The fix is 1. a wider gutter so the water never lands on the facia, and 2. a beefier seal. I have tried to upload video, both inside and outside. If that didn't work, I have also posted them on Youtube:

https://youtu.be/h3n8y4JMXiY
https://youtu.be/k3_IHhHgVDo
Perfect shots! This happened to us twice, once on the road and once parked during very heavy rain. I fashioned a temporary drip edge that tucks under the gutter when parked. For a long term fix, I might just put a bead of caulk near the roof edge to break up the water flow.
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Old 10-20-2017, 05:48 PM   #786
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2017 Basecamp
Conway , Arkansas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badgeruw View Post
I have finally captured my Basecamp rear door leak in action. Turns out, when water is running off the roof at just the right speed, it can "jump" the rain gutter and hit the black facia surrounding the door. It then runs down the seam between the door and the frame, and because the seal isn't beefy enough it enters the cabin. (If the water is going fast enough, it lands on the door itself and runs down harmlessly. If it's going slow enough, it lands in the gutter and runs down harmlessly.) The fix is 1. a wider gutter so the water never lands on the facia, and 2. a beefier seal. I have tried to upload video, both inside and outside. If that didn't work, I have also posted them on Youtube:

https://youtu.be/h3n8y4JMXiY
https://youtu.be/k3_IHhHgVDo
Some of the 2017 basecamps that were manufactured a bit later have a wider rain gutter on the back door. It looked like you have the more narrow gutter from the short video clip I saw.
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Old 10-22-2017, 07:39 PM   #787
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2022 23' International
Folsom , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickgeo View Post
Will someone please check their Basecamp and tell me if the drivers side, rear, overhead storage netting has one or 2 support straps screwed into the ceiling. The passenger side netting has 2 such straps.

I worry about putting too much weight up there because the only real supports are the end brackets screwed into the walls.

Thanks
The road sides mount to the sidewall of the wet bath and only have one support strap. The curb sides only mount to the trailer wall and have two straps.
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Old 11-02-2017, 09:46 AM   #788
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Park City , Utah
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Is it safe to assume that the water tank heater will completely drain the battery overnight in freezing temps if not connected to shore power? Trying to figure out the cold camping boondocking thing. Suggestions appreciated.
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Old 11-02-2017, 01:27 PM   #789
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The AS site Features page refers to "Tank Heaters" so both the fresh water and holding tanks are heated at the same time, I would guess. Is there only one switch?

https://www.airstream.com/travel-tra...camp/features/

Can't find anything in the manual:

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...ers-Manual.pdf

The electrical diagram at the end is too difficult to read IMO. Do you have any wattage specs for the tank heater? Will you also be using the furnace, lights, etc.? Have solar panel?

Also, you really don't want the battery to fall below 12.2 volts [about 50% of capacity] so that is the number to watch IMO. Below that the discharge affects the life span of the battery over time.

I would turn on the tank heater for an overnight test now, to check it out. It may not be as cold as in winter, but you can monitor the [one?] battery voltage overnight to get a sense of how this might play out later. I assume the water tank and holding tank should have some liquid in them to do this safely, but could be wrong.

Good luck!

Peter
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Old 11-02-2017, 09:00 PM   #790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
The AS site Features page refers to "Tank Heaters" so both the fresh water and holding tanks are heated at the same time, I would guess. Is there only one switch?

https://www.airstream.com/travel-tra...camp/features/

Can't find anything in the manual:

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...ers-Manual.pdf

The electrical diagram at the end is too difficult to read IMO. Do you have any wattage specs for the tank heater? Will you also be using the furnace, lights, etc.? Have solar panel?

Also, you really don't want the battery to fall below 12.2 volts [about 50% of capacity] so that is the number to watch IMO. Below that the discharge affects the life span of the battery over time.

I would turn on the tank heater for an overnight test now, to check it out. It may not be as cold as in winter, but you can monitor the [one?] battery voltage overnight to get a sense of how this might play out later. I assume the water tank and holding tank should have some liquid in them to do this safely, but could be wrong.

Good luck!

Peter


Probably best test is to just fill it and run it overnight before our trip and see what happens. We have the solar panel option. I really doubt it will last thru the night. I was just wondering if anyone else had any experience with it.
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Old 11-03-2017, 06:34 AM   #791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FricknFrack View Post
Probably best test is to just fill it and run it overnight before our trip and see what happens. We have the solar panel option. I really doubt it will last thru the night. I was just wondering if anyone else had any experience with it.
We don't have any experience with the water heater but have notice that just the regular heater will drain the battery over night. Our last trip we had the heat on set to about 50 ( the heater is VERY aggressive) and by morning our battery was down to 12.3. We use a few of those inflatable lights instead of lights in the cabin, except for the bathroom, and the only other thing running was the fridge.

I'm guessing if you have 2 batteries this likely won't be as big of an issue though.
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Old 11-03-2017, 11:30 AM   #792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungishJedi View Post
We don't have any experience with the water heater but have notice that just the regular heater will drain the battery over night. Our last trip we had the heat on set to about 50 ( the heater is VERY aggressive) and by morning our battery was down to 12.3. We use a few of those inflatable lights instead of lights in the cabin, except for the bathroom, and the only other thing running was the fridge.



I'm guessing if you have 2 batteries this likely won't be as big of an issue though.


Yes the thermostat setting is NOT accurate with the actual inside temp. We also set it down around 55 and it's still pretty warm. I think there is an offset in the panel but haven't tried it. We haven't run into trouble yet running out of battery juice at night 🤞🤞

The two batteries added with the fridge fix may help...unless those 2 supposedly large and loud fans drain them too [emoji849]
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Old 11-03-2017, 11:36 AM   #793
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You saw RocIngersoll's updated report on the Simple Survey thread, which seemed to indicate that the fan noise was acceptable to him? His overall review was not entirely favorable IMO.
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Old 11-03-2017, 11:39 AM   #794
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Update on fridge issue - I asked the AS dealer here to fire up a fridge on a new 2018 BC with new fridge cabinet setup and I would come in to check out noise level. When I got there the 2018 floor unit was plugged in, fridge on and cold & no fans running. They said they tried a couple new outside units too and couldn't get the fans to kick on using shore power. They won't run off propane to test. They have done a few fridge fixes and said those fans are always on once they install them. FWIW they showed me the fans they use and did not seem unusually loud when they hooked to 12v battery.

So what gives??? Are the fans installed in new units on a thermostat and ones they install with the fix always on?? The dealer did not know the answer. So I'm still unsure about doing the fix yet.
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Old 11-03-2017, 11:42 AM   #795
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You might want to ask on the Simple Survey thread, as that is focused on the fridge IMO.
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Old 11-11-2017, 06:01 PM   #796
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2018 Basecamp
Tomball , Texas
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New 2018 Basecamp

So... I just bought a 2018 Base Camp. Loved the design, perfect size for my needs and truck, slightly better offroad than typical trailers, etc.

I went to the dealer today (in Houston) to pick it after being told it's been through their inspections, cleaned and ready to go. They found a leak in the fill hose during their inspection but was repaired (otherwise all good). Well here's a list of the issues I found during my inspection.

- A/C doesn't cool at all, the fan is on, the compressor turns on, no cold air. Spoke to AirStream and a new A/C is being shipped out.
- No hot air from the heater. The heater is getting hot, but no air coming out of the vents. Not sure what the fix is yet.
- No hot water. Valves open from winterization I'm sure, so probably an easy fix.
- Rivets pulled through on the propane tank lid. Rather than re-rivet, I've asked them to replace with nut / bolt.
- Broken air vent fin - really minor, but hey, it's new.
- Sink is loose in the counter. I could move it around - I'm sure it's just tightening the screws.

Some of these are big, some small, but I just don't understand how QC misses these things from the factory. It's not like they are producing 100's a day. Anyone with just a little attention to detail would discover these things. I noticed on the other unit in stock that there were rivets missing from the interior aluminum. Not broken or pulled through, but never riveted.

I really love this little trailer and I'm holding out hope that there aren't other issues yet to be discovered. Frankly, there's not much to these trailers, so I can't imagine what else can be broken.
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Old 11-11-2017, 06:50 PM   #797
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JD, did you test the fridge.
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Old 11-11-2017, 07:14 PM   #798
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Tomball , Texas
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Originally Posted by Troutboy View Post
JD, did you test the fridge.
I did, problem is that I'm not sure how long it had been running. It was cool (not cold), but can't say that it wasn't working. The technician mentioned they changed the design of the exhaust vent, but I don't have a previous model to compare to. Anyone have pictures of their outside fridge vent to compare with?
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Old 11-11-2017, 08:18 PM   #799
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Just saw your post on the Simple Survey thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f404...ne-169937.html

Good luck,

Peter
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Old 11-16-2017, 10:25 AM   #800
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Essex , Massachusetts
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... and modified a yactransom door catch to the right angle - there is no support directly behind the base of the catch, so it bounces a little, and if slammed into the catch, it might bend the panel - -
...Otra15 is right... so I put a 1" diam. dowel from the base of the catch to the interior frame, which is further supported by the galley counter, all set in and shimmed generously with West 610 - no flexing here - The catch on the door is on the frame under the window - Now it works as intended! Catches open with the slightest movement, and solid enough if it gets thrown open. File this under Not Necessary But Sure Is Nice.
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