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08-16-2011, 01:09 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
van nuys
, California
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 33
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Slide-out in Sovereign 1973
Has anybody had any experience in retrofitting a slide out (for a queen sisize bed ) in the 1973 31 ft?
I have an impression that it is tecnically possible if you do it differently than what was available by airstream.
Didier
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08-16-2011, 01:50 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
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For clarification, are you talking about retrofitting the actual trailer shell to slide out ~20 inches in order to fit the extra dimension of a queen size bed over a full?
OTOH, you could just be asking about fitting a couch to slide out into a queen, or something similar on a much simpler interior redesign.
If the former, then due to the monocoque structure you would need to really understand how much to strengthen the perimeter of the cutout hole and firmly attach it to the existing ribs without allowing for any warping of the shape. I think Andy from Inland might have mentioned in another thread that he did it before. the amount of work required might be so excessive that you should probably consider simply redesigning the interior.
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08-16-2011, 01:57 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starboard
Has anybody had any experience in retrofitting a slide out (for a queen sisize bed ) in the 1973 31 ft?
I have an impression that it is tecnically possible if you do it differently than what was available by airstream.
Didier
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Save your time, and money.
Don't do it.
The slide out models have an entirely different chassis, than the standard trailers.
Andy
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08-22-2011, 02:33 PM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
van nuys
, California
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 33
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slide out 1973
The way they have done it was by cutting and modifying the frame and there is no need to do this if the slide out part is set on an aluminum frame clearing the wheels well and sliding out no higher than the overhead closet. I am an experienced welder ( steel, SS, Al.) and have a good friend who is an aeronautical engineer. The storage would remain under the bed as well as the window. Since the bed is just a bit aft of the wheels well and everything being built of AL weight would not be an issue. I would have to take some space from the rear starboard side of the closet. What do you think. Didier (starboard)
Quote:
Originally Posted by worldinchaos
For clarification, are you talking about retrofitting the actual trailer shell to slide out ~20 inches in order to fit the extra dimension of a queen size bed over a full?
OTOH, you could just be asking about fitting a couch to slide out into a queen, or something similar on a much simpler interior redesign.
If the former, then due to the monocoque structure you would need to really understand how much to strengthen the perimeter of the cutout hole and firmly attach it to the existing ribs without allowing for any warping of the shape. I think Andy from Inland might have mentioned in another thread that he did it before. the amount of work required might be so excessive that you should probably consider simply redesigning the interior.
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08-22-2011, 04:13 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starboard
The way they have done it was by cutting and modifying the frame and there is no need to do this if the slide out part is set on an aluminum frame clearing the wheels well and sliding out no higher than the overhead closet. I am an experienced welder ( steel, SS, Al.) and have a good friend who is an aeronautical engineer. The storage would remain under the bed as well as the window. Since the bed is just a bit aft of the wheels well and everything being built of AL weight would not be an issue. I would have to take some space from the rear starboard side of the closet. What do you think. Didier (starboard)
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First off, oh thank god. The way you wrote the introduction and since you didn't have any other posts for me to verify your abilities or inabilities had me really scared that you were just gonna go chop up some aluminum
Instead, it seems like you have a pretty good handle on the situation. With that design I can't see any structural issues on the frame itself, but my only thought would be of adding the additional weight on the side, although I'm sure you've already factored that in. To make it easier, you could consider "hidden" support posts that come out of the slide-out corners, i.e. once the slide out is fully extended, then you reach underneath each corner and unlatch a pole like for a pickup bed camper support post, and that extends all the way to the ground level. That way you wouldn't need to beef up the slider frame system too much. And I'm not calling you fat or anything, but you never know how much gear you might try to cram in their one day without thinking...
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08-22-2011, 05:10 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1962 19' Globetrotter
1963 19' Globetrotter
1961 19' Globetrotter
Wheat Ridge
, Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 624
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If you got both lots of time and money I would say go for it! Beside its a 70's trailer, not like you are destroying a vintage (5 panel and older) so cut the hell out of your 70's trailer and post lots of pictures! Yes being a little funny...
It can be done if you understand how the frame and trailer work! It will take away from the over all strength of the trailer because unlike SOB's the weight is distributed through the walls and frame. The slide-out that Airstream did worked but at a large weight gain (750 lbs) that is because the frame takes all of the weight!
I like the way you think out of the box (curve) ....Good luck...
__________________
www.VINSTREAM.com
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
WBCCI # 1962
Instagram #Vinstream
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08-24-2011, 07:37 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
van nuys
, California
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 33
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Thanks guys, I will work on the specs i.e the Al, full or over extension, slide hardware and the way I plan to spread the live load throughout the frame. I have to say that I really like this Forum because of the frankness of the members. By the way I have done a lot of work with lightweight material like honeycombed wood and metals ( sandwich or composits) including some pretty sophisticated connections and glues. Thanks for all the ideas. Didier/Starboard
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08-24-2011, 07:52 PM
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#8
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Aluminum Falcon Mechanic
1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel
, Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,169
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Yes that's doable!
Mcmaster Carr offers an industrial rail system just for this purpose. I have used it on a slide out compressor package and it is slick!
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08-24-2011, 08:03 PM
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#9
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Aluminum Falcon Mechanic
1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel
, Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,169
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Also have used the heavy duty full extension lock in / lock out Accuride units
http://www.drawerslides.com/m/accuride
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08-28-2011, 06:43 PM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
van nuys
, California
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 33
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carr
I like the carr slides 24" 400# plus
Thanks Darkspeed
Starboard
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08-28-2011, 06:48 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
van nuys
, California
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 33
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Hey Darkspeed,
By the way, your pictures are very good, what camera do you use?
starboard
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08-28-2011, 07:01 PM
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#12
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Aluminum Falcon Mechanic
1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel
, Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starboard
Hey Darkspeed,
By the way, your pictures are very good, what camera do you use?
starboard
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Your gonna laugh... iPhone 4... Takes great photos and video..
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08-28-2011, 07:04 PM
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#13
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Aluminum Falcon Mechanic
1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel
, Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starboard
I like the carr slides 24" 400# plus
Thanks Darkspeed
Starboard
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They are good!
Look at these, they lock in/out for mobile applications
http://www.drawerslides.com/c/accuride-9308
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