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Old 05-11-2014, 11:04 PM   #1
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1971 27' Overlander
Jackson , Tennessee
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Sealing off the rear end of my '71

This topic has been rehashed many times here, and I have picked among the ideas that seemed to best suit my situation, with a few additions of my own. I always enjoy and learn from others' experiences, so I decided to document my stab at this near-universal problem.

It is amusing to me how many obsessions are expressed here - mirror shine polishing, running gear, frame paint, hitch set-up - endless, really. Mine was coming up with a solution for the rear end leak-prone design. The "anti-flashing" as someone called it. Might as well call it a funnel to your plywood.

I had the typical starting point:
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I also had a variation of the elephant ear fix, with the attempt to hide it behind reflector patches. Genius.
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After getting the frame repair, painting, and new floor section done,
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I cut away the corroded area of the skin under the rear door, treated the rest, then riveted a new alclad skin under the old, attaching to the door frame and stainless hold-down plate. I pieced alclad to seal in the rear wall of the trunk, and made little drip flashing pieces for the frame rails.
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:13 PM   #2
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1971 27' Overlander
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I used waterproof pipe grommets and wire pass-through grip to seal penetrations through rear wall. Then i riveted aluminum angle to the bottom edge of the skin, and then to the belly pan, completing the seal-off.
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I couldn't think of any way to conceal the previous repair hole, so I just patched over it. I wanted to etch on the patch, "This is not what you think it is!"

As long as we're having fun with the process,

Alan
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:34 PM   #3
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1971 27' Overlander
Dickinson , North Dakota
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That is awesome work Alan! I'm so glad you are a couple steps ahead of me so I can learn all I can from your experience. It is kind of cool that we are working on pretty much the exact same trailer.

How are you going to access the dump valve from the bumper trunk? How much of your rusted frame did you end up replacing and did you add and reinforcing to it? It also looks like you kept the rear crossmember as just the two steel channels, correct? Did you weld any extra tabs on the frame to attach the subfloor? Lastly, Did you use saturated epoxy on the subfloor?

Otherwise it looks really good and very inspiring and good motivation to keep my own progress trudging forward. Congrats!

Ryan
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Old 05-13-2014, 07:09 AM   #4
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It looks like you did it right but I am having trouble visualizing how you connected the shell to the frame. I don't have that back door in mine. There is a steel hold down plate right where your door is on mine and two large bolts on each side of that going into the frame. I did something similar and just continued the side skins around the back so water could just roll off and hit the ground. I ended up making a separate box for the sewer hose. The main thing is getting rid of that plate at the back which I call a funnel plate.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...oor-82354.html

Perry
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Old 05-13-2014, 07:25 AM   #5
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I'll take credit for the term "anti-flashing".

How did you do the bumper trunk cover?
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:39 PM   #6
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Thanks, Ryan. I will cut an access opening in the bottom of the trunk box for the dump connection. Mine had an access like that before, and that will also take care of water from above (which used to go under the subfloor!) The valves are inside the rear hatch.

I had to replace the back 2ft of one frame rail, the angle beneath both frame rails, and 3 outriggers. New angles to support the tank box. No extra tabs, and mine did not have the tabs seen on your rear cross member. Epoxied the top and 8-10" of the bottom edges of the floor.

Perry, the new alclad skin extends up to the bottom of the hatch door frame and is riveted there, as well as getting all the rivets going through the stainless hold down plate, the upper edge of which is just below the hatch door frame.

Chuck, I went back and looked at the posts on Top's thread addressing this, and I plan on the same type of solution, using angle across the back for the hinge attachment. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ml#post1206640 I think I'll just leave the little gaps at the corners open. Did you come up with a different way? Btw, I've borrowed your term "anti-flashing" to describe things to my homebuilder a time or two, as well…

Pretty cool how Perry's and Chuck's work helped me as I went along, now what I've done adds some to help Ryan at his stage, and on it goes. Love this forum.

Alan
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Old 05-13-2014, 07:43 PM   #7
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well...I'm one of those people that talks endlessly about stuff, but never actually does anything. (hey, self-aware is half-way there, so, at least I got that going for me. )

I'm leaning toward getting one of those harbor freight stretchers, and trying to make a custom-curved piece of flashing that will both flash the joint, and create an attachment for the bumper cover...without drawing water toward the plywood to accelerate the rotting process. (i.e. "anti" flashing.)
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:00 PM   #8
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Alan, We finished all the welding this past weekend and last night I took the wire wheel on an angle grinder to the entire exposed frame pieces in preparation for painting. So things are progressing. A couple of quick questions for you... is the pan/tray for the black tank needed? My black tank was strapped up to the floor and between cross members similar to how you did you grey tanks. The pan seems a little redundant to me.

Also, I see you had your son help with sliding that rear floor piece in but wow that looks to be a job!! I'm not thinking I can get that much separation between the bottom of the back skins and the top of the frame. Did you have to trim the bottom of those skins to get it in? Also, what is the best order to try and install that hold down plate in there? I'm guessing it has to go in after but it seems like it will be a pain either way! Thanks!
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:45 AM   #9
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I did trim a little of the skin edge on the street side corner (I later added a strip of aluminum riveted in with the U-channel to cover the small edge of exposed plywood), but having the water heater out makes that side a bit floppy, which helps. A little persuasion from a hand sledge and a 2x4 and it's home! You want to make absolutely sure that your plywood curve is right on beforehand (don't ask why I mention this - yessir, had to pull it out, trim the curve, and do it again!)

I remember a million unexpected difficulties, but getting the hold down plate in was not a big deal. With the U-channel out, I think it just slid in under the subfloor from above without problem. The difficulty later was drilling all those holes though stainless steel plate - I bought a Drill Doctor at that point, and I love that thing. I do agree with using some type of corrosion barrier between the plate and the skin - Mylar, window flashing tape, Eck, multiple paint coats, etc.

Your rate of progress is a kick in the pants for me; I can't believe how slow I am with this stuff…

Alan
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:35 PM   #10
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So you basically slid the subfloor in from the street side more or less? I do have a piece of Luan plywood to make my template from so that I can be sure the curve is correct. My bits and pieces that I had to cut out get me pretty close but there are some bits and pieces that are missing and open to creative interpretation... and in my experience that means I need to cut things twice!

I'm very nervous about drilling the 316 stainless 10 gauge plate that I had bent to replace the steel one! That is some crazy hard stuff and I'm thinking it is going to be a major project. I do have a drill doctor but it still seems like you can never put the same edge as a new bit has and the longevity of that new edge is never as good either.

I will likely use some of the at rubber adhesive window flashing for my barriers. I also used that on the mounting straps for the tanks.

What do you think about strapping in the black tank and forgoing the pan under the black tank??

LOL on my rate of progress! It is more like a frantic frenzy to try and get axles back under her so I can hopefully get a camping trip in before the end of summer!

Take care,
Ryan
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:36 PM   #11
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1971 31' Sovereign
1972 31' Sovereign
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Rear floor pattern

TennTex or chilipepper you wouldn't happen to have a rear floor pattern traced out on paper in your back pocket would ya, both my 71 and 72 31' Sovereigns are missing half of the wood on the ends and it is a bugger trying to get a true curve made. One is a frame off and the other is a frame on redo. Double misery at its best.
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:13 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by cole3444 View Post
TennTex or chilipepper you wouldn't happen to have a rear floor pattern traced out on paper in your back pocket would ya, both my 71 and 72 31' Sovereigns are missing half of the wood on the ends and it is a bugger trying to get a true curve made. One is a frame off and the other is a frame on redo. Double misery at its best.
I would be worried it wouldn't match. These things look like they are not that precise, in that one radius would be the same as another...

Can you get some cardboard under the shell to trace the perimeter? Thats what I did, as my rotten sub floor was useless.
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Old 05-21-2014, 12:58 PM   #13
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1971 27' Overlander
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Ryan - Re black tank: Without the galvanized box, since the dump valves are accessed through a hole in the floor, I would have an large opening into the belly pan area. Not good. The box closes all that off. I'm not so concerned about the tank freezing, but that was the other purpose of the box.

I had a thought about the rubber flashing: would that present problems with bucking the rivets? Might want to experiment on some scrap first?

Cole3444 - I agree with Mixter on the templates. My floor was more like mulch around the c-channel, and the channel was a mess due to the corrosion, separation forces, and previous attempted "repair". So a cardboard trial helped, but only a bit. The critical thing is to remember that when it all goes back together, the aft crossmember attaches at the main frame right where the c-channel crosses; and then the crossmember, hold down plate, flooring, and c-channel all have to line up for bolting together. As long as this arrangement, which has little margin for adjusting, is kept in mind, you'll be good.

Fun, fun, fun,
Alan
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Old 05-21-2014, 02:40 PM   #14
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were you able to slide the replacement floor in from the side, all in once piece?
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