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Old 07-27-2014, 08:51 PM   #85
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1971 27' Overlander
Jackson , Tennessee
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Catching up

Bathroom reinstalled and plumbed. I used Flair-It fittings a la Uwe of Area 63 Productions (his old thread on a reno is still one of the best). Used a Hepvo drain on the tub, running back to the gray tank opening which will be under the bed.

Haven't decided what to do with the bathtub wall; I'm replacing the poorly designed sliding-door-cabinet thing that was the original wall. Finding a rigid replacement that looks good and is removable for future repairs is tough. Gluing panels to hardboard like a home bath isn't easily removed. I'm not crazy about the look of FRP and it's too floppy without backing. Any suggestions would be great!

Got the dump drain opening finished in the trunk with a little sliding cover that moves in a track made up of some aluminum scrap.

The furnace pic shows how I did the ducting. I did not want to move the intake piece on the outer skin, so I salvaged the old plenum by enlarging the right side opening, then attaching to a rectangle-to-double-round transition piece I rigged up from two smaller ones. This gives me the most space under the galley cabinet and also the proper amount of exit air surface area for this furnace (including the left-side duct).

Oh, and it feels good to have the ac install behind me, too.

Fun everywhere!
Alan

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Old 07-27-2014, 09:19 PM   #86
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Tampa , Florida
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Wow- nice work. Questions for you:

1. Did you epoxy coat your tub and bath counter? What did you use?

2. On the rear bumper/ trunk/ waste line area... Does that area fill up with water when it rains? How does it drain? Thats a cool sliding door.

Thanks!
Mic
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Old 07-28-2014, 10:42 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixter View Post
Wow- nice work. Questions for you:

1. Did you epoxy coat your tub and bath counter? What did you use?

2. On the rear bumper/ trunk/ waste line area... Does that area fill up with water when it rains? How does it drain? Thats a cool sliding door.

Thanks!
Mic
Thanks, Mic. I treated myself to a break on the bath because I just didn't want to attempt that without good spray equipment/experience, and I needed to outsource a few things or never get finished. (Limited free time, working alone, outdoors, waahh, waahh, waahh…) Anyway, a bath refinisher guy used a commercial 2-part finish, and I really like the results. Having said that, I've seen some of the DIY products' results and they look great, too, especially with a little sanding and polishing.

My trunk area isn't sealed on the ends aft of the aluminum angle cross-piece yet, but I will eventually drill some holes in the trunk floor for drainage.

Alan
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:24 AM   #88
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So I've decided to replace my 4 year old suburban furnace with a wave 6 catalytic heater. I want to boondock a da furnace will run the battery down quickly. Comes in on Saturday an I ll take loads of pictures during the install process!


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Old 07-30-2014, 06:45 AM   #89
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Suburban heater

What size heater are you taking out, curious if you are getting rid of it. Been hunting for a NT34SP for my 31'.
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:08 PM   #90
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1971 27' Overlander
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Hey, could you folks with similar trailers give me some help with this?
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...lp-123134.html
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:46 PM   #91
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Cole, PM me. This is furnace is in excellent condition. I
Let's talk about it.




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Old 08-01-2014, 10:56 AM   #92
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Dickinson , North Dakota
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Alan,

Your work looks awesome. My wife is giving me the rebuild the bathroom vibe so I'm currently just running with it until this fall and spending some time thinking about how I'm going to keep the tub and build a new vanity to have basically the same functionality. At the same time I still need the ability to hide plumbing and wiring behind it as well.

There are some weird layout issues with changing too much about the bathroom with the way the walls and the pocket door work there. You almost have to go back to some sort of pocket door if you want to keep walls in line, etc. The original pocket door was stupidly heavy for some reason or another. I want to try and find some new hardware and basically re-create it with a lot lighter construction and maybe some frosted acrylic sheets to let some light through.

I like your little sliding door idea for the dump valve. Mine originally had a hinged panel that latched and dropped out of the way. Did you use heavier material for the door itself?

Also, thankfully it has been warm enough where we have been camping to not have to worry about heat so that is another head scratcher for the time being. I like the argument for rigid ducting if it is buried like originally below the cabinets in the rear. The way I have it in my head to run the duct up and around my redesigned bed should make it easier to get to and 'mend' if necessary. In principle I don't like that thought but on the other hand I think it will provide more storage options under the beds.

Dave, I would like to hear your thoughts and reasoning on the catalytic heaters. I really like the idea of radiant heat but am not too sure on the air exchange issues. It seems somewhat counter intuitive to leave a window or vent open to run the heater. Are you going to run another unit in the back of the trailer as well?

I did sneak out and camp last weekend and going to do the same this weekend. I mounted my awning and so from the outside no-one would know it isn't quite done yet. I still haven't attached the belly pan under the black tank and bumper. I just can't seem to get a time that works for me or my buddy that has the metal break to bend those angles in there. Alan, did you bend your yourself or have someone do it?

Thanks!
Ryan
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:28 PM   #93
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Ryan,

I originally wanted to rebuild the bath, but my plastic was in good shape - I only had to re-glass the area around the tub drain underneath - so I went with the old. Now if I could just figure out the tub/wall thing.

Agree with the bath door comments. I may just compensate the staggered walls with a wider frame facing offset on each wall (so the door frame trim is even across the opening even though the walls are not.) That gives me a bit longer bed on the curbside, which I need. Then, accordion door, or …?

The sliding trunk hatch is scrap 0.032 Alclad.

I look forward to seeing what you come up with on the furnace ducting; my double round ducts do kill storage space. Both rear ones will vent into bed room space; because of my tub plumbing, I couldn't get it to the bathroom. My wife wasn't too happy about that.

About the belly pan, the repaired lower frame metal that makes up the lower belly area on mine ended up not being exactly symmetrical, so I sweated over the measurements, but a local heating and air company cut and bent it to spec, and it worked out great.

Fun is the point,
Alan

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Old 08-04-2014, 07:18 PM   #94
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Well I'm hung up under the sink. Replaced that silly ass kitchen faucet with a new one. Pulled all the crap plumbing. Tonight was working on locating the flojet pump.

So I've been thinking about the location of the new heater and I am thinking of locating it street side in that cabinet that is kitty corner to the gaucho. I'm gonna remove the shelves and hook up a flexible 3 ' line to it along with legs so I can aim it towards the back of trailer if I want. I pondered installing it in the kitchen cabinet on the left when you come in the door, but I am not certain how effective it will be. I thought the doggone thing would heat the heck outta the front of the trailer but not so much in the rear. Thoughts?

Worked on her till the Mosquitos drove me inside. Florida humidity up here in North Carolina!




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Old 08-04-2014, 07:32 PM   #95
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Someday’59 did a cool job installing a cat heater under the kitchen sink, I'm not positive but as I remember it slid out and could swivel. Otherwise it was hidden in the cabinet.
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Old 08-05-2014, 06:56 AM   #96
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Hey Reinergirl!

The PO installed a new suburban under there and used the old case that was there you'd think he welded the dang thing to the frame! I'm gonna explore the other option on this one. Need to check my propane lines anyway.


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Old 10-10-2014, 08:10 PM   #97
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1972 27' Overlander
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Been hung up on that dang work stuff.... Have my sink, toilet tub and water heater in. What I learned form all this was that Airstream - even 40 odd years ago used top of the line stuff. For example, if you need a new shower diverter a new one is roughly $110.00 from Moen. So I called Moen and learned they don't make our style any longer...but they do have a replacement cartridge. $27.00 plus $20.00 for the removal/install tool. I found both in one package for $24.00 on Amazon, score!! yay! So tomorrow ...theoretically I will complete the bath.

I've also decided to go with a peel and stick type floor from Lowe's. I believe like everything preparation and a good primer is key.. I'll update after things are a tad further along. I've installed a waterless P trap from Hepvco because the thought of cutting yet another hole in the floor for a Tub P trap was killing me. So tonight I rest a happy man. Will get some pics up soon.

Lucky Dave
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Old 10-10-2014, 09:23 PM   #98
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Good find on the replacement cartridge; using the original faucet eliminates any difficulty mounting a new one (like I had). I am interested to see how you connect your new lines to it.

I had planned to use the waterless traps on all three of my drains, but I couldn't fit one from the bath sink to the existing vent/drain. The tub has one and so will the galley sink, and - yes! - no P-trap through the floor.

Congrats on your progress.

Alan
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