Sealing off the rear end of my '71

[mccrosti]

Alan, here are some pics if what I wound up doing: 1) installed diverter 2) used small sharkbite to attach copper to copper shower supply. Here is where I got creative, with a lot of heat applied I disassembled the shower supply and the copper. Then I used an electrical box flat nut on the copper side which provided something to push up against. I added a dab of white silicone to the chrome side and tightened it up. All in all I am pleased with the results. Hopefully I'll get the bath complete this week.


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[TennTex]

I think one of the addictive things about this trailer reno stuff is the puzzle-solving, making-something-that-works-well aspect. When I was trying to reattach my shower connection, I couldn't find anything on the forums like your solution, nor your bird-dogging the replacement cartridge for the faucet/diverter. Your pics and explanation should really simplify that project for the next guy. Nice work.

I've got a guy helping me redo some cabinets, then I've got a little window work, finish flooring, and a few odds and ends (that probably never end), and we will be officially camping! We're missing the best part of the season, but still getting close. Looks like you're getting mighty close, too.

And, Jackson is one hour out of Memphis on I-40. Holler at us if you're ever headed west!

Have fun,
Alan

[chilipepper]

You guys are doing some awesome work! I have been getting back in the swing of renovations after a pretty good season of camping. The bath was limited to just the latrine but for the most part that is all we needed. After googling the Hepvo trap I have one on order from vintage trailer supply. That looks to be the ultimate way to plumb the tub without cutting another hole. I too was a bit reluctant to cut another hole in my nice new rear floor.

We are still looking for a good bathroom design that will utilize the old tub but new toilet and vanity. You guys are a great inspiration for ideas and motivation.

Alan, where are you from the Nashville area? I'm going to be in Franklin Wednesday through Monday starting this coming Wednesday.

[mccrosti]

Guys I need a favor. I pulled my battery door off, since it had a dent. I replaced the aluminum in it, but for the life of me I cannot figure out how the hinge at the bottom attaches to the casing. I took it off a loong time ago. Would one of you guys post a picture of yours from the bottom that shows the connection? Thanks!

[mccrosti]

Ryan, took a look at your blog tonight - what incredible work! Wow!

[Mixter]

Originally Posted by mccrosti

Guys I need a favor. I pulled my battery door off, since it had a dent. I replaced the aluminum in it, but for the life of me I cannot figure out how the hinge at the bottom attaches to the casing. I took it off a loong time ago. Would one of you guys post a picture of yours from the bottom that shows the connection? Thanks!

Mine was falling apart when I bought it.... I think it had been messed with before. I have the same question on the proper configuration of that hinge.... Hopefully someone has some pics they can post.

Mic

[chilipepper]

Thanks Dave! It has been a fun journey. We did have a ball camping this summer.

Unfortunately I cannot help with the battery door. My trailer doesn't have the battery compartment curbside. My battery was in the rear access when I got it. That is one of the oddities of my trailer. I also have a straight front on my galley counter and not the little bulge at the rear by the oven. I also have the RM60 fridge with the freezer inside the fridge compartment. It looks like almost all the other 71 trailers have the larger fridge/freezer combo.

Cheers
Ryan

[TennTex]

Originally Posted by mccrosti

Guys I need a favor. I pulled my battery door off, since it had a dent. I replaced the aluminum in it, but for the life of me I cannot figure out how the hinge at the bottom attaches to the casing. I took it off a loong time ago. Would one of you guys post a picture of yours from the bottom that shows the connection? Thanks!

Sorry, Dave, but my model doesn't have that battery door. Is the hinge (8) in the diagram the one you're working on?

[TennTex]

Originally Posted by chilipepper

Alan, where are you from the Nashville area? I'm going to be in Franklin Wednesday through Monday starting this coming Wednesday.

Man, that's quite a camping trip!
I'm 2 hours from Franklin - you may be hitting that part of the state at a good time for fall colors.

[mccrosti]

Alan,

Yes, that's it. I'll mess with it this weekend and figure it out - then I will post a pic.

[Chuck]

Bumping back to life from a year ago...

Hey, do you think that grommet from way back on page 2 would work with this fitting:


I'm planning on running my dump line through the frame on the side of the trailer (actually, through the 3" extension that is attached to the bottom of the main frame rail), and I was thinking of plumbing the line on the inside to terminate with a female threaded adapter, then threading this in from the outside.
That grommet would make a nice, neat seal, but if its super-tight, you might not be able to push this through, and still be able to thread into the pipe on the other side.

[TennTex]

Chuck,

The hole required for a 3" pipe is 4.01" according to McMaster-Carr's site. McMaster-Carr And the grommet is about 3/4" thick, so it would also depend on how much thread depth is needed on the inside.

Let us know how it goes -

Alan

[Chuck]

I guess my main concern would be how tight the fit is; if the grip is really tight, would it be possible to rotate the fitting so that it can thread?


what do you think of this situation: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...ml#post1636968

[TennTex]

I see now what you mean - that would be a problem.

From looking at your setup, I think I would run it out the side instead of the rear, but use a Fernco coupling in place of the threaded connection; then you could use the grommet for a closed exit. Can you cut the hole through both existing frame pieces like Top did here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...-73643-11.html (last pic post #143)?

[Chuck]

Yeah, I don't have to use that particular threaded fitting--I just like the idea of putting things like this together in a way that also lets you take them apart, should the need arise. (and it almost certainly will). But that one fitting isn't the only way to do it.

I can't go straight out the side without adding another extension piece to the existing one, and possibly lowering the tank a bit--in this area, the main frame channel is completely covered by the belly pan/banana wrap; in the bumper area, not an issue...and back there, you can cut into the main 5" frame rail and not be concerned about weakening it, because the frame isn't supporting anything back there.

I showed this to a co-worker today, who is also an rv-er, and understands "dump station" issues...he thought I should go back to the bumper, because of the ease of access...old knees and backs being the way they are. It would be an awkward reach to connect the slinky if I go straight out the side; much much easier with the bumper area connection. It would be easier to plumb, too...more room to work with. I'm starting to lean in that direction.

[TennTex]

Easier to build, easier to use - I'd go for that. As long as you can keep the backside water- and critter-proof...

Have fun,

Alan