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Old 06-17-2014, 09:20 PM   #43
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I am just reading through my reply. I don't like these itty bitty keyboards
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Old 06-19-2014, 11:07 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by chilipepper View Post
Can a thin gauge aluminum be used (i.e. hardware store flashing) for the flashing between the skin and down into the bumper storage? I would like to use something easy to work with and then cut it just inside the bumper trunk and behind the new hinge mount like others have done. Then close off the trunk at the cross-member and down to a new cross-member directly below the top one. In my '71 the rear cross member is in about 1.5" from outer skin at the back center.

The thinner material would be easier to rivet in as well since it wouldn't add quite as much material to buck together. With the skin, hold-down plate and C-channel it is getting a bit 'thick' back there. Thanks!

Another quick question... did you drill any drain holes in the new galvanized black tank pan for drainage? If so how many do you think?
The "roll" flashing seems a bit flimsy to me for that spot, but it might work fine since there shouldn't be a lot of stress on it back there. I'm not sure you would notice much difference when riveting, though. I did not drill holes in tank box, either. I have the opening for the valves through the floor, so I will be able to take care of most moisture problems in the box/pan through that.

Spent the afternoon replacing the shower faucet. (I'm so poky slow it's pitiful!) Only 4" of flat space available for an escutcheon plate, and I could find none made less than 6". Had to grind out the hole on the old one (glad I saved it!!) and made it fit on a new faucet. I could not find any posts dealing with this problem. Is my trailer model the only one like that? I realize this is off subject, but I'll post a photo anyway…
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:01 AM   #45
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Alan this is what was in mine. I didn't measure it but just pulled one of my reference pictures from my ipad. I did heed both of your advice and will use some 0.032 5052 aluminum for sealing the back. I think I'll end up very similar to your approach, Alan if not identical. I hope you didn't patent that!

Do you have a photo of how your black and grey valves worked out? I'm struggling to decide if I'll have them in or out of the black tank pan. There isn't much room either in or out if the pan especially having to get another 1.5" connection in there. Ideally they end up right at the wall of the black pan.

Thanks!

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Old 06-20-2014, 04:50 AM   #46
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My black tank valve is inside the pan, but I cut an access door so I could get to it if I needed to. I will take a picture today and add it later. TennTex your shower valve looks great. TIP: if you need a drain for your bath, go to Lowes and buy a drain for a bar sink. It fits perfectly.
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Old 06-20-2014, 04:51 AM   #47
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Always think of something after I hit send. What did you paint your tub with? I have the Homax brand epoxy paint. I plan to do it this weekend .
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Old 06-23-2014, 12:44 PM   #48
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[QUOTE=chilipepper;1471645]Alan this is what was in mine. I didn't measure it but just pulled one of my reference pictures from my ipad. I did heed both of your advice and will use some 0.032 5052 aluminum for sealing the back. I think I'll end up very similar to your approach, Alan if not identical. I hope you didn't patent that!

Looks like the PO had to come up with their own escutcheon plate replacement on yours. I hope there are no patents on this stuff or I'm in trouble!

Do you have a photo of how your black and grey valves worked out? I'm struggling to decide if I'll have them in or out of the black tank pan. There isn't much room either in or out if the pan especially having to get another 1.5" connection in there. Ideally they end up right at the wall of the black pan.

These show it in progress. Not so elegant, but I'm happy with how they work.
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Old 06-23-2014, 12:52 PM   #49
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Always think of something after I hit send. What did you paint your tub with? I have the Homax brand epoxy paint. I plan to do it this weekend .
Since I'm working solo on this, I have chosen a few of the projects to farm out. I had a bath restorer guy prep and spray mine with a 2-part product they use for resto's. Looks perfect, but pricey (about $75 per piece, $100 for tub - more than I really intended to spend, but how many times have I said that since the first rivet came out?)

Btw, the drain worked out great; thanks!

Have fun,
Alan
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:19 PM   #50
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Thanks for that info Alan. Question; My black tank pan runs right up against the frame on the valve side. Where do you plan to locate the stinky exit?


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Old 06-23-2014, 07:20 PM   #51
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BTW my black pipe and gray pipe cs together inside my bumper trunk, not the pan.


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Old 06-23-2014, 09:20 PM   #52
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It will be tight, but the current plan is to create an opening in the trunk floor for the waste fitting to enter and attach to the dump pipe. That's how it was when I got the trailer (PO-modified), and I think somewhat how the original was, judging from the owner's manual. With a swivel-type elbow, I think it will work. I don't want anything permanent hanging below the belly pan, because you will drag that tail on something at some point.

You have probably seen examples of exiting the pipe through the street side frame of the trunk, which would require a degree of hole-cutting in steel I wanted to avoid. But it would leave you with an easy hook-up once done.
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Old 06-24-2014, 04:47 AM   #53
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Ok. I am not sure what you mean. You cut a hole through the floor for the toilets position. If you have an original black tank setup, the valve will be inside the pan with the 3" outlet exiting the pan straight out the back and into the bumper trunk. From there it would tee off and out through a 4 in hole in the frame. This hole is what I want to avoid. I am going to either add a 90 and go through the floor of the bumper trunk or go straight out the back of the bumper trunk. Explain to me how you intend to route yours please.

Dave


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Old 06-24-2014, 03:30 PM   #54
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Thanks for the photos and the info on your guys' installs. I think I have the black / grey transition figured out and will go with the black dump valve right off of the tank in inside the pan. From there I'll add a very short piece of 3" ABS into a sanitary 'T' that will just fit the hole I drilled in the black pan from the outside. This will allow me to get the grey line and valve tucked right up against the outside of the black pan which in my case will JUST fit inside the back cross member. The another short piece of 3" ABS through the extended flashing and into the bumper trunk and terminate with Valterra bayonet fitting.

This is pretty much how mine was when I received it. I will then put a hatch on the bottom of the bumper trunk where I'll attach the stinky slinky with a 90 degree elbow to the bayonet fitting. I'll know for sure tomorrow when the rest of the parts show up if that will work out like I have it laid out in my head! So far I'm about 50/50 on that one!

I have a few quick questions for you guys. First on the whole topic of sealing the rear up... how does your belly pan seal around the two channels that protrude below the frame where the black tank mounts to? Mine was all messed up originally and was held together with spray foam so I really do not know how that aluminum aligned with those channel pieces. Also, how did you seal the dump valve into the black tank? Mine just had a large stainless hose clamp. Is that 'the' way to do it?

I have the grey tanks mounted and the main part of the sub-floor insulated. I used a 3/4 inch foam spacer to create an air gap against the sub-floor and then a layer of Reflectix. On top of the Reflectix I used a 1" sheet of aluminum coated polyisocyanurate foam screwed with sheet metal washers through it all and back up to the sub-floor. Under the grey tanks I put a 1/2" sheet of insulation and Reflectix. My question is how tight did you tighten the grey tanks up against the floor. I cinched my tanks down just until I could see the side starting to bulge slightly. I used 1/4 inch bolts with nylock nuts and they are not bottomed out so I could tighten them up more if needed. I want to know if I have them too tight or if I need to make sure the bolts are tightly drawn together??

Thanks guys!
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:58 PM   #55
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BTW, I went with the MrTubby product for my bath tub refinishing.
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Old 06-24-2014, 08:45 PM   #56
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Hey Chili,

Sounds like a heckuva job. Mine is a 72 and did not come with a grey water tank. I have a blue boy portable that works just fine. There is approximately 3/4 inch between my floor and the top of my black tank. I still have the foam pad thing that Airstream installed forty some years ago. I painted it with kilz and put it back in there. I used 1" insulating foam around the perimeter of my tank . I did this because I am basically rebuilding it back to stock so I *really* want my throne to line up between the water heater cabinet and the sink area (did I mention that I have the original cloth hamper that fits behind the toilet?

Anyway I think I'll use the Homax product it's a one part epoxy, and I believe the key to all of it is good prep and a liberal application of plastic adhesion paint.

Regarding the belly pan. Mine came without , I think what I will do is simply stretch two long sheets of Aluminum across the bottom. Then fasten them with large head rivets. I live in the south so I don't worry to much about the cold. And the black snakes that live on my property take care of the vermin 😀

You and I have exactly the same idea when it comes to the black tank exit. I want a short piece of abs and a ninety ASAP. I don't store much in the bumper trunk anyway and I don't want to over-engineer anything at this point. When I built old Harley's I saw lots of folks overthinking something that HD had already figured out. I like simple.. But I digress. One of the things I could not stand about this old beast was that the fresh water was less than 18 inches from the black water. Yuck. Thats been taken care of.

This weekend I cut the last hole in the floor when I refitted the battery box. All went well with that job. If I'd been feeling better ( summer cold) I would have had the electricity hooked back up. Anyway that's my evening report. Peace y'all.


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