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Old 05-29-2014, 08:24 PM   #29
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The pics on that C (f) channel show it as 5/8ths; I thought our early 70's had 3/4" plywood.
I suppose it would be impossible to do a 1 piece floor while also attempting to retrofit that new channel, as well....thoughts?
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Old 05-30-2014, 04:59 AM   #30
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The C channel is 3/4. I'll take a picture of a piece I have next to a ruler later. OODM has a couple of C channels.
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Old 05-30-2014, 05:02 AM   #31
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I gave a lot of thought to one piece, in fact I have one that I am now using for a workable . I didn't want to wrestle with something that large heavy and awkward. I suppose if there was a way to slide it in under the skin it might be doable. Also meant to say what I used was 22/32 not 3/4.
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Old 05-30-2014, 05:32 PM   #32
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Using the "edge-wrap" c-channel would require piecing in the floor from inside. Would likely require a shallow rabbet on the lower edge of the floor. I probably would give this more consideration if I were ever to do it again (insert maniacal laughter here), from looking at mccrosti's work and the improved c-channel as a result. A lot of other threads' posts question the strength of pieced-together floor; hard to estimate this with monocoque design, etc. I might add full outriggers under the side pieces?

I put 3/8" ss bolts where the c-channel, aft crossmember, and frame rails overlap, but I added a 1/4" plate, 6" long and cut to fit in the c-channel to beef up that connection a bit. Added screws through both ends of the plate, as well. This would lay across the plywood joint on mccrosti's floor and might help structurally. Just a suggestion.

Enjoy the process…
Alan
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Old 05-31-2014, 12:55 PM   #33
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Hey Alan, I'll take another look in 20 years or so ( add my own maniacal laughter) . I did weld angle aft of both the water Heater and the battery box. The box that the black tank sits in also adds strength as the floor is about a 1/16 off the top of the edge. Also, the factory used approximately ONE bolt at each corner, then tiny little wood screws to hold the c channel on top of the floor. I'm reusing the old tub and sink stuff so I am adding no weight to the back end . I'm satisfied that it's gonna be fine. At least in my lifetime Once I get the new belly pan in it'll be "above the floor" for me.
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Old 05-31-2014, 03:48 PM   #34
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mccrosti, do you have any shots of the bracing you added prior to laying the sheets in? I'm seriously considering this method since I was trying to put some beef on the frame and shell to see if I would be able to slide the sheet in. I just don't think I can get that much separation. It's seems like to splice it would be much better to have the improved c (or F) channel to strengthen that outer edge. I'm sort of scared to enquire to out of doors mart to see what they will charge to ship that piece!
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Old 05-31-2014, 08:12 PM   #35
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Hey chili I will post some tomorrow for you. I am on my iPhone tonight but don't have access to the photos.
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Old 05-31-2014, 08:35 PM   #36
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Chili.
I fired up my computer. These were added as soon as I welded the frame, early in the project. I wound up removing more floor. Welding is not my forte (as you can see). One shoes the support prior to por 15 the other after. I notice that the frame rails do not look straight in these pics, but I assure you they are straight and level.
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Old 05-31-2014, 09:59 PM   #37
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Awesome and thanks for posting those. It still just amazes me how much variation there is in the same trailer and from the same year. What is your manufacturer date from the front plate on the lower road side? Mine is 8-1970. I do not have the battery box as other 1971's have. My vertical ribs in the rear are also different from yours.

I put about 12 hours in on mine today. Finished Por-15 on the frame. Cut a template for the rear floor. I'm hopefully going to make an attempt at a trial fit tomorrow if I can get some extra help here and we'll see if we can split things enough to get the rear floor in as a single piece. If not then I'll be looking at some cutting and splicing. I was going to install the grey tanks today. I received them yesterday from VTS and unfortunately they forgot one spin fitting on the connection between the two tanks. The plans had it circles and written on there that it should be installed but it was missed for one reason or another. I'm sure they will make it right but it throws off my timing a bit.

I also stripped some old Vulkem from around the road side windows to re-seal those while I was waiting for the paint to dry. I also think I'm going to grind off the crossmember that I installed in the rear and move it. As Alan pointed out it will interfere with my black dump. I'm not sure what I was thinking but I'll fix it and make it work. I think I'll move it to the bottom angle and that way I'll have a place to rivet the rodent barrier to! I might weld on a couple of other outrigger mounting points in case I have to cut and split the rear floor.

As I'm bouncing from one end to another I was working on reinstalling the fresh water tank. There was 1" plywood surrounding the tank originally. It seems like a 1" closed cell foam board would work just as well for that and cut a good chunk of weight off?

Well too much fun for one day. We'll see what happens tomorrow. Damn this is a lot of work?
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:02 PM   #38
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McCrosti, btw hole saws suck. Sorry to hear of your misfortune. There is always something right?
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:12 PM   #39
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That looks great - I get the added angles now; I was a bit slow getting the description. Structural strength should be no problem there. What did you do at the corners?

I'm "all inside" now except for some window issues. So glad to be out from under that thing with stuff falling in my face. New water heater, furnace, and vent fans in, inner skins all back in, finishing up pex lines, ready to paint walls and reinstall bath. (Does anybody else get this weird euphoria after getting a part of the process back in place?)
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:09 PM   #40
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The hole saw is just a dumb tool the dumb a$$ wielding the drill is another matter altogether. I've been fooling with power tools long enough to know better. But I appreciate your sentiment. Chuck, you are right OODM shows that channel as 5/8ths. The 22/32's fit perfectly, so I don't know it works, and it ain't going anywhere.I thought I'd post a couple of before pics. I moved all of my pics onto this computer so if you'd like to see anything, just let me know.

Also, when i got into the tank, it had 1" foam stuffed around the edges, I figured it was a good idea, so the new setup was the same. Can you see the crack in the old tank....and my wife would blame ME for the odor....
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:05 PM   #41
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Can a thin gauge aluminum be used (i.e. hardware store flashing) for the flashing between the skin and down into the bumper storage? I would like to use something easy to work with and then cut it just inside the bumper trunk and behind the new hinge mount like others have done. Then close off the trunk at the cross-member and down to a new cross-member directly below the top one. In my '71 the rear cross member is in about 1.5" from outer skin at the back center.

The thinner material would be easier to rivet in as well since it wouldn't add quite as much material to buck together. With the skin, hold-down plate and C-channel it is getting a bit 'thick' back there. Thanks!

Another quick question... did you drill any drain holes in the new galvanized black tank pan for drainage? If so how many do you think?
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:00 PM   #42
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I don't see why you could not use a thinner gauge aluminum as long as you know it won't look the same as the rest of the trailer. I think anyway you can seal up the bottom to keep vermin out is a step in the right direction. I did not drill the pan, it is made of aluminum two coated with POR15. Inside and out. I think holes would invite corrosion.

I am doing the slow tedious work now, I installed a 30 amp inlet street side. I installed a 20 amp outlet curbside. And I installed the water inlet/ pressure regulator street side. Click image for larger version

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The photos make them look uneven it's a trick of the light.
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