Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-21-2014, 06:17 PM   #15
3 Rivet Member

 
1971 31' Sovereign
1972 31' Sovereign
1967 22' Safari
Soddy Daisy , Tennessee
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 191
Rear Floor

Thanks TennTex that has been my biggest worry on aligning everything up and making it fit.
__________________

__________________
cole3444 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2014, 11:05 PM   #16
3 Rivet Member

 
1971 27' Overlander
Jackson , Tennessee
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
were you able to slide the replacement floor in from the side, all in once piece?
Mostly from the rear, but the street side had a bit more skin in the way that I had to trim, and it also had more give for wiggle room as the panel was worked in place.

Increasing the gap took some teenage son help, and we also ran a 4x4 in through the hatch door to leverage upward against the floor to raise the shell just a bit.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	ross floor install.jpg
Views:	172
Size:	490.5 KB
ID:	212489  
__________________

__________________
TennTex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 07:10 AM   #17
Patriotic
 
Chuck's Avatar

 
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,533
Images: 260
So it looks like that method is pushing down on the frame rails, rather than lifting up the shell (?).
So its possible to slip the hold-down plate into place after the floor is in?
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
Chuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 01:17 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,648
I had to section my floor into three section and I left the intact hold down plate installed. If you remove the hold down plate you can probably get the floor in, in one section. Now you have to have a buck riveting setup to install a new hold down plate. This doubles the time and the amount of tools you need. If the hold down plate is toast you have to do this anyway.

If you want to use one section and leave the hold down plate alone, you would have to lift the whole shell up far enough to push the floor past the hold down plate and over the intact section of floor and the position it properly and drop the shell. This would be more work than removing the hold down plate.

Perry
__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2014, 09:29 PM   #19
3 Rivet Member

 
1971 27' Overlander
Jackson , Tennessee
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 157
I don't have a photo of the aforementioned 4x4 lifting up on the shell through the hatch door while we had the downward force on the frame rails. There still was only a small amount of separation gained but just enough.

The old hold down plate is seen in this pic between c-channel and the hatch frame. It was so corroded you could break it by hand. Amazingly, the cross member it sat on must have had a good paint job, as it had only surface pitting and cleaned up really well. With the c-channel out and the cross member being only a couple of inches wide, there was enough play in the rear skin to easily slip the new hold down plate in. Bucking all the rivets wasn't bad (kinda fun), but drilling the holes through that plate was a workout.

By the way, there has been discussion on other threads about the plate thickness raising the floor. My plate was 0.063; since the crossmember attaches below the upper frame rail plate, the effect on the floor is negligible.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	rearrotholddown.jpg
Views:	144
Size:	328.1 KB
ID:	212542  
__________________
TennTex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 06:25 PM   #20
3 Rivet Member
 
chilipepper's Avatar
 
1971 27' Overlander
Dickinson , North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 109
Images: 5
Alan, where do you find the giant pipe grommet and what was the approximate cost? I've looked at the local Ace hardware and they really didn't have anything quite like that. Did it come with the aluminum flashing too or was that added? Is it 3" ID?

I'm working on my black tank now and was also wondering if you used straps and the pan to install the black tank? Also, are you going to route your dump connection through the main frame rail aft of your power hookup? I've looked at a few threads that went that route and I like the concept but wondering if I'm missing something there with the frame integrity by doing so? Seems like it wouldn't be an issues since it is behind the body mounting point.

Thanks!
__________________
Ryan Jilek
WBCCI 7165 | TAC ND-3

Ms. Streamy - 1971 Overlander Restoration Blog
chilipepper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 08:19 PM   #21
Rivet Master
 
Mixter's Avatar
 
1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 796
Quote:
Originally Posted by chilipepper View Post
Alan, where do you find the giant pipe grommet and what was the approximate cost? I've looked at the local Ace hardware and they really didn't have anything quite like that. Did it come with the aluminum flashing too or was that added? Is it 3" ID?
Im interested in this too... I'll be reconnecting my waste lines soon and havent been thrilled with the original design. This looks like a great way to do it. Any help is appreciated!

Thanks!
Mic
__________________
Mixter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2014, 08:29 PM   #22
Rivet Master
 
1972 27' Overlander
Denver , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 750
Images: 4
I am doing the same job. I've replaced the last four feet of frame, Black Tank, Recreated a pan like the original, and this weekend installed the floor from the inside. I did mine in three pieces. two "wings" and one middle. It was a fair bit of work getting the floor joints to fit tightly. I used penetrating resin epoxy and 15 elevator bolts around the perimeter of the C channel. I fabricated a piece of aluminum drip shield as well, which will serve as the connection point to the bumper trunk lid, and like Ryan I will run the ABS straight through the bumper trunk floor. I used self tapping screws on the rest of the floor. What did I learn from this experience? That It's a difficult job to do by yourself, and that a 4" hole saw and a tired old guy are not a good mix I need to listen to myself . That I haven't had stitches in like 20 years... Sorry about jumping in here, hope you don't mind.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	photo 1.JPG
Views:	148
Size:	102.6 KB
ID:	213098   Click image for larger version

Name:	photo 2.JPG
Views:	156
Size:	122.6 KB
ID:	213099  

Click image for larger version

Name:	photo 3.JPG
Views:	128
Size:	109.4 KB
ID:	213100  
__________________


Lucky Dave, Denver NC
mccrosti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2014, 12:04 AM   #23
3 Rivet Member

 
1971 27' Overlander
Jackson , Tennessee
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 157
Quote:
Originally Posted by chilipepper View Post
Alan, where do you find the giant pipe grommet and what was the approximate cost? I've looked at the local Ace hardware and they really didn't have anything quite like that. Did it come with the aluminum flashing too or was that added? Is it 3" ID?

I'm working on my black tank now and was also wondering if you used straps and the pan to install the black tank? Also, are you going to route your dump connection through the main frame rail aft of your power hookup? I've looked at a few threads that went that route and I like the concept but wondering if I'm missing something there with the frame integrity by doing so? Seems like it wouldn't be an issues since it is behind the body mounting point.

Thanks!
I got the grommet from one of my favorite websites: McMaster-Carr
McMaster gives you all the specs you need to make the measurements. I made the surround from alclad; makes for an easier fit when lining it all up through the wall. Btw, Ryan, looking at your (cool) blog, the "added crossmember" looks like it will block the dump pipe. Am I seeing that wrong?

The galvanized box with the fore and aft angle underneath it are the only support for the black tank. As I mentioned, the box was necessary for me to seal off the belly since my dump valves operate through the rear floor.

My dump connection will be through the floor of the trunk, as original. Through the side frame rail should work (see Top's thread on "Abby…").

Mixter - I just wanted to keep the black tank, tie in grey tanks, and still be able to completely water/vermin-proof the rear. The belly pan runs under the aluminum angle attached to the bottom of the vertical skin, so there is no opening to the belly space from the back. So far, I'm happy with how it turned out.

McCrosti - A lot of us can commiserate on that Last Four Feet. Very clean, precise-looking work you've done - congrats! Sorry about the hole saw mishap. Keep us posted on your progress.

Much fun,
Alan
__________________
TennTex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2014, 08:24 AM   #24
3 Rivet Member

 
1971 27' Overlander
Jackson , Tennessee
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 157
mccrosti - how did you get that new curved c-channel?
__________________
TennTex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2014, 10:56 AM   #25
Rivet Master
 
Mixter's Avatar
 
1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 796
Nice find on the grommet. Thanks TennTex!
__________________
Mixter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2014, 05:45 PM   #26
Rivet Master
 
1972 27' Overlander
Denver , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 750
Images: 4
Hey Ten, you buy it from Out of doors mart. For roughly $60.00 what I liked about it is that it isn't a C channel, it's more of an F channel that fully encloses the edge of your floor.
__________________


Lucky Dave, Denver NC
mccrosti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2014, 06:06 PM   #27
3 Rivet Member
 
chilipepper's Avatar
 
1971 27' Overlander
Dickinson , North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 109
Images: 5
mccrosti, thanks for those pictures. I'm still worried about sliding the sheet in whole. Your cleats and splices must be just inside of the main frame rails? How wide of a cleat did you go with? I do like the clean look of the original c-channel replacement. I did look at those on out of doors mart but was a little lery that it wouldn't fit the '71 due to it having the "F" that wasn't the way the original one was! I'm glad to see that it worked out for you. Did you have any issues getting it to fit in place and did it make the rear sub-floor harder to put in? I suppose you had the luxury of picking it up rather than having to have it shipped. I think shipping would be the deal breaker for me.

Alan, thanks for the McMaster link! I'm also a big fan of McMaster but I guess I just didn't look there for that grommet. I guess I had hardware store on the brain when I was thinking about it.

Good eye on the 'new' rear cross-member. I was planning originally to see if I could get the dump connection to drop down and out the bottom just in front of the cross member. I guess I'll still look at that but in the mean time I have been looking at other options and am liking the way some of the others look. I also think that running it out into the trunk and then through the rear frame rail is the 'cleanest' way to do it on all accounts. It is easily accessible without having to get under the trailer as well as it might help keep unwanted crud out of the trunk too. So I guess I'll see a little better once I get my grey tanks and the black tank pan constructed. Then I'll have to decide if it will stay or if it will go.

I might be able to move it to the bottom of the lower angle and get away with having it there.
__________________
Ryan Jilek
WBCCI 7165 | TAC ND-3

Ms. Streamy - 1971 Overlander Restoration Blog
chilipepper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2014, 07:41 PM   #28
Rivet Master
 
1972 27' Overlander
Denver , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 750
Images: 4
Hey chilli,

Adding the F channel which curls around the edge of the floor was a no brainer for me. Was it more difficult than the C that sits on top, probably but it was worth it.
I did not use cleats. I added a couple of fabricated outriggers to either side, than cut the tolerances between boards very tightly. The outriggers are just rear of the battery box and water heater. I just used 1 x 1 angle. One thing I would highly recommend is to weld a 2x2 angle across the frame rails directly under the rear skin, this way you will have something to through bolt into that will provide much more stability and strength. I por 15d the heck outta everything even the pan. What amazed me was that with all this work I figured I removed 70 lbs of junk the PO used to try and shore the rear end up.

I won't be going back to original again with the sanitary line. I will come out of the tank and 45 though the bumper trunk floor. I don't like the idea of cutting another hole in the frame. I am also going to add a 30 amp plug just aft of the water heater and will plug in my shore power to it. Also adding a 20 amp curtesy plug to the other side so wecan have power under the awning. Water will come in just forward of the heater that's about it for now.
__________________

__________________


Lucky Dave, Denver NC
mccrosti is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Is this the end of my end caps? unit13 Upholstery, Blinds, Walls & Interior Finishes 9 01-02-2017 11:42 AM
Brand new RVers went off deep end with 1968 Globetrotter rickyfish Member Introductions 8 01-19-2014 03:08 PM
looking for rear rear end molded plastic interior freerider 1974 Overlander 2 07-18-2012 08:39 AM
Sealing Rear Bumper area bwaysteve Bumpers & Bumper Storage 2 03-02-2010 01:16 PM
Off the deep end... blackboat Member Introductions 13 05-30-2006 07:39 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.