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Old 06-24-2014, 10:11 AM   #1
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Replacing Aluminum exterior panel - Where to put Trempro?

Hi guys,

So - I'm cheating here... I have a 1956 Silver Streak Rocket, not an airstream. I'm in the process of restoring her, and I had to replace the Lower left-rear panel due to corrosion. The window was damaged at one point, and the years of water leaking in corroded the exterior skin and the ribs to the point where it was just white dust...

I've ordered a new sheet of 2024-T3 aluminum, and instead of bending new C-Channels, I am using a section of 0.125"x1"x1" 6063 Aluminum channel. I'm actually replacing the ribs all around the perimeter, in an attempt to beef things up. I've already replaced the entire floor with 3/4" plywood (A-C Exterior, 2 coats of polyurethane, nice side facing down).

Question is this: Where should I apply sealant to the new skin? I'm putting a dab of Trempro 636 on each rivet, but I also want to run a bead. To me, logic says to put it up high. The panels overlap by 4", so I should put a bead on the inside of the skin where things overlap. Then if (when) water does get in, it won't just sit in between the two panels, but leak down to the floor (hopefully giving me advance notice).

Any thoughts to this, vs a bead in the middle, or one down along the line of rivets?
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:30 PM   #2
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There is no need for the sheet to project any higher then approx 1/2" above the rivet line. Put the bead of sealant right at the rivet line, this is call ED or edge distance and the aviation industry recommends that the edge distance from the center line of the rivets to the edge of the skin to be 2-4 D with D= the diameter of the rivet being used. If you do this then they is no need to "Dip" each rivet into the sealant before shooting in the rivets. Apply sealant at all mating surfaces of the new skin. Have fun and welcome to the forum.
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:15 AM   #3
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There is no need for the sheet to project any higher then approx 1/2" above the rivet line. Put the bead of sealant right at the rivet line, this is call ED or edge distance and the aviation industry recommends that the edge distance from the center line of the rivets to the edge of the skin to be 2-4 D with D= the diameter of the rivet being used. If you do this then they is no need to "Dip" each rivet into the sealant before shooting in the rivets. Apply sealant at all mating surfaces of the new skin. Have fun and welcome to the forum.
Great. Thanks for the insight! Besides the main rivet line, Silver Streak tied that lower panel into the vertical ribs above that line, hence the 4". I had just used the old panel as a template.
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Old 06-25-2014, 10:17 AM   #4
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I've ordered a new sheet of 2024-T3 aluminum,
Aren't Silver Streaks annodized? How does the new sheet match up with the originals? Are you going to strip the annodizing on the rest of the trailer & polish it? It'll look great if you do! Post pics - I wanna see!

Shari

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Old 06-25-2014, 11:48 AM   #5
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Now that You are here.....

Clint0511, Now that you have an account set up and an Avatar, You can go into User CP on the blue tool bar above and ad a trailer to your account as 1956 Silver Streak or 1956 Vintage Kin. If you do this then you can delete the '56 Airstream you set your account up with and POOF!!! no more cheating! LOL! Ed

P.S. Welcome to the Asylum 'er I mean Forums!
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:57 AM   #6
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Shari - Silver Streaks were originally Alclad Aluminum, and switched to Anodized in the 60's (I think '68?). We are polishing her up - Right now she's gutted to the exterior skin so we can plug all the leaks. POs put a lot of small holes in the skin. Some are thoughtful, most are sinful.
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:07 PM   #7
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Shari - Silver Streaks were originally Alclad Aluminum, and switched to Anodized in the 60's (I think '68?).
Thanks Clint...I learned something new today! Tis a good day...

Shari
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:17 PM   #8
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I learned in a mill tour last month that Anodized sheet started in 1966 for the building industry mainly for Airport terminal projects around the country. Alcoa was the first company to offer such a product and it was twice the cost of non anodized sheet. Talk about mark up!
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:46 PM   #9
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Anodizing is not cheap but it is the perfect coating for aluminum and is very durable if done right. It does not peal off and is self healing to some extent. The top layer of aluminum is converted to an oxide layer that is hard and strong. It is basically a ceramic coating. The process is also not environmentally friendly with a lot of toxic residue like hexavalent Chromium.

Hexavalent chromium - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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