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Old 08-11-2017, 04:35 PM   #1
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Prepping for roof paint

I'm in the process of prepping for roof paint. I have stripped and sanded the areas of the roof I wish to paint. Click image for larger version

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Now that I'm down to bare aluminum do I need to prep the aluminum, with Alodine solution? I was thinking all I need to do next is wiped down with lacquer thinner and roll on my epoxy primer. My plan is to add these insulating beads to the primer and topcoat.Click image for larger version

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Also should I renew all my seam sealants? Will the paint stick to it sufficiently? Or is it better to scrape sealants, and reapply after painting?
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Old 08-11-2017, 05:45 PM   #2
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I don't know if this is correct, but I would seal before painting. As to aluminum treatment, I would go with whatever your paint system recommends.

Al
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Old 08-12-2017, 05:22 AM   #3
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Thanks for the reply Al, For the seams I'm gonna seal and paint then seal again. I can't stand a leak, especially when it leads to rotting floors!
The Aircraft paint I have doesn't have any prep directions with it, only mixing instructions. I guess I'll just clean the skin with acetone and paint.
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Old 08-12-2017, 06:45 AM   #4
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there are primers that are specifically formulated for aluminum. I would look into using one for peace of mind.
Al
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:07 AM   #5
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Hi Al, I do have the primer for aluminum, what's your take on prep for the skin is an acetone or lacquer thinner wipe down sufficient?
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:57 AM   #6
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I would think so. Just make sure it is clean. If you sanded it and then cleaned it so there is no grease or dust you should be good to go. I used a ceramic based paint on my roof and it made a huge difference on heat load.
Al
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:58 AM   #7
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It is best to scumble bare aluminum with an aggressive scotch bright pad.
Get the red ones from a good auto paint store. Don't skip or skimp on this step as it is necessary for you primer to bond properly.

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Old 08-12-2017, 08:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
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I would think so. Just make sure it is clean. If you sanded it and then cleaned it so there is no grease or dust you should be good to go. I used a ceramic based paint on my roof and it made a huge difference on heat load.
Al


Thanks Al, I wash the roof, sanded with 180 grit, washed again, now doing fine details around Rrivet heads and places the sander couldn't get. Just trying to make sure I get this right, it's a big job that I hope not to have to do again. I'm hopeful the thermal solutions product will be all they say it is. Cheers
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:14 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Iansk View Post
It is best to scumble bare aluminum with an aggressive scotch bright pad.
Get the red ones from a good auto paint store. Don't skip or skimp on this step as it is necessary for you primer to bond properly.

Ian


Ian, Scotch bright is The bomb! It may be a little overboard, but I came up with this tool to detail around each rivet it goes fairly quick.
I know all good paint job are due to the prep work, and I'm hopeful that my extra work will pay off. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-12-2017, 08:41 AM   #10
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You may find this work useful. The method used a material (epoxy based) made for this type of solution:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...ng-156379.html
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Old 08-12-2017, 02:09 PM   #11
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Hmmm.. well... you got the scotch bright down... but I would use a product called alumaprep.... made by dupont and others.. we use it on aircraft... after you seal all the seams... it is not that toxic... but use rubber gloves... when applying it with the scotch bright pad 'ne all... then rense with clear water... and before the water dry's... apply a coat of clear/or other alodine... conversion coating directly to the part... wait for 90 seconds or longer... but not long enough to allow the liquid to dry... and rense with clear water... don't touch it.. let it dry ... once dry... use some zinc cromate primer... don't need to color coat the piece... just enough so that its lightly coated... let dry... then go ahead and paint with your paint that coats alu... such as aircraft paint.. or dupont immron, centari or other PPG paints... I would not use the other junk on the roof... its like adding sand to paint... doesn't work... it ends up to thick... and then you get to do the whole thing over again... You have to remember that alu expands and contracts ALOT... and so the paint has to have something to stick too... alu makes a oxide on its skin that is made to keep things from sticking to it... ie thus we use the alodine for corrosion inhibiting... and the zinc cromate to act as a go between... the alu and the paint... thus the paint then will stick and stay a while longer than just applying the paint by itself..... That is how we do aircraft... although the new kids on the profession.... aircraft are not painted but rather a large sheet decal.. that sticks to the metal and looks like paint... but them their are expensive and hard to handle...

Contact your automotive paint store... as they know what works and doesn't now that several of the auto manufactures have gone to alu body works... that are painted...

Good luck... G.M.... AI&P in aircraft work
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Old 08-12-2017, 02:28 PM   #12
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3m-alodine-acryl r-ceramic beads-flex white

Hi Deja Vu,
Looking at the thorough job your doing up there thought I was looking at me on my 345 roof ! That soft alloy down the centre off our roofs once grit sanded, results in removing the mill surf and leaves it vulnerable to oxidization,even under paint that's how it starts to breakdown paint adhesion, so for the small cost in $+T I'm slapping on the Alodine then hose off, Acryl-R 5504C on the seams as this pulls itself back into the small crevices between the sheets as it cures and can be removed without damaging the alloy unlike some urethane products.I have the same vacuum ceramic insulating beads but still looking for a flexible white top coat to mix them in? I wont be using any hard curing paints on that moving roof, a fundamental to keep in mind for me is everything becomes more brittle as it ages. Me included, so Its a trick to get it right this time.

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Old 08-12-2017, 03:07 PM   #13
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Bare aluminum will always form a layer of oxide. It is the nature of the beast. Even steel will begin to oxidize immediately if cleaned to a fresh surface. Unfortunately steel continues to oxidize, called rust, until the piece is destroyed. Aluminum stops oxidizing after the initial layer is form unless that layer is disturbed. That disturbance can be physical damage or chemicals. Aluminum exposed to salt, or other chemicals, will continue to create that awful white stuff that is oxide commonly known as corrosion.

A surface preparation such as Alodine is highly recommended for longevity of the aluminum parts.
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Old 08-13-2017, 05:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM Airstream View Post
Hmmm.. well... you got the scotch bright down... but I would use a product called alumaprep.... made by dupont and others.. we use it on aircraft... after you seal all the seams... it is not that toxic... but use rubber gloves... when applying it with the scotch bright pad 'ne all... then rense with clear water... and before the water dry's... apply a coat of clear/or other alodine... conversion coating directly to the part... wait for 90 seconds or longer... but not long enough to allow the liquid to dry... and rense with clear water... don't touch it.. let it dry ... once dry... use some zinc cromate primer... don't need to color coat the piece... just enough so that its lightly coated... let dry... then go ahead and paint with your paint that coats alu... such as aircraft paint.. or dupont immron, centari or other PPG paints... I would not use the other junk on the roof... its like adding sand to paint... doesn't work... it ends up to thick... and then you get to do the whole thing over again... You have to remember that alu expands and contracts ALOT... and so the paint has to have something to stick too... alu makes a oxide on its skin that is made to keep things from sticking to it... ie thus we use the alodine for corrosion inhibiting... and the zinc cromate to act as a go between... the alu and the paint... thus the paint then will stick and stay a while longer than just applying the paint by itself..... That is how we do aircraft... although the new kids on the profession.... aircraft are not painted but rather a large sheet decal.. that sticks to the metal and looks like paint... but them their are expensive and hard to handle...

Contact your automotive paint store... as they know what works and doesn't now that several of the auto manufactures have gone to alu body works... that are painted...

Good luck... G.M.... AI&P in aircraft work


GM, thank you for taking the time to write this very informative post. Your experience and detailed instructions will help my process, and peace of mind. Here's a pic of the primer and topcoat I have.
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In the sealants section of the form most people recommend Acrylic-R for the seams and small tight areas, I believe that's what the PO had used on the seems previously. When I scraped off the sealant it came off quite easily and remains soft, is that typical for this Acrylic-R ? I have some time expired 890 B1/2 would that be better? Finally, I estimate a half gallon of paint for this area, what would be your guesstimate?
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