Originally Posted by Phoenix
I use aerosol Teflon dry lubricant for places and things where WD-40 and regular lubricating oil is too messy or draws dust and dirt. This is available from auto parts and home improvement stores, and even hobby shops, under many different labels and descriptions. I have even found this product labeled as a candle-mold release agent.
Just look for an aerosol can that looks like spray paint, with Teflon, TFE or tetrafluoroethylene listed as the main ingredient, that has the keywords "dry lubricant".
Note: This lubricant leaves a slight overspray of white Teflon on the surrounding surface, which can be wiped off easily, if desired.
Below is a listing for a typical product. However, this lubricant may be available locally under a different label, at a cheaper price:
Amazon.com: DuPont Teflon Non-Stick Dry-Film Lubricant Aerosol Spray, 10 Oz.: Sports & Outdoors
For example, I bought this at a local Autozone:
Liquid Wrench L512 Dry Lubricant with CERFLON - 11 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive
A dry film aerosol lubricant is the all around handy choice. I have others for more specialized purposes, but this type serves best for TT GP. Combined with a penetrant (usually liquid) one has -- with disposable paper or cloth -- a one-two punch on "rust-free and freely working".
NAPA usually carries quality brands (as their real business is not so much retail, but wholesale to repair shops). I have preferred CRC
brand over the years. (Jig-A-Loo
is another brand of a different type I have also used as GP).
Internal lock mechanisms, like sewing machine or gun works, will benefit more from other types. In those cases, a quart of synthetic ATF
dispensed from an applicator can keep them running. Combined with some acetone, the ATF will "defeat" about any rust problem found in devices seeing use, limited or otherwise. (ATF lacks the needed additives for combusion byproduct control found in motor oil thus leaving almost no residue). Along wtih acetone, lighter fluid is a tool to get old, dried grease out of a mechanism not easily opened (assuming one is removing an item for a partial breakdown/renovation).
A box that contains these which will not allow leakage is key. Use dividers to separate. And understand flammability
of both types. I would not keep paper or cloth stored in combination with this.
Whatever your TV look in the owners manual for lubricants/greases in a list or chart. Use that as starting point (if one wishes, as with a spare tire, to be thorough in supplies. NLGI #2 grease
is about the only addition to the above. Where engine oil is called for, use ATF).
If a DF aerosol, ATF +/- Acetone, or #2 grease can't do it . . call NASA.
The aero DF is enough to keep for a fulltimer. A bit of oil can always be taken from an engine dipstick for small problems, etc.
Use and dispose of the other types once a bigger project is done, IMO. The risks (leakage high among them) outweigh the purchase price versus buying them several times over a decade (except where they are TV specific and kept in that vehicle in a safe, clean manner).
Where an older TT may need a year or three of work, overall, a newer TT may not need much of anything. The TT's which are genuine "projects" will probably find the owner with a shelf of products . . but note that the shop or garage is where they are kept.
IOW, if one is down to maintenance only, minimize
. "Ideal" doesn't mean too much in re basic, scheduled lube . . only that one do it.