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Old 07-17-2014, 08:46 PM   #15
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More Pix of Damage

Rune's other half here. See more pix of the damage (prior to today's fix).


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Old 07-17-2014, 09:04 PM   #16
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Rune's other half here. See more pix of the damage (prior to today's fix).


Attachment 216576

Attachment 216577

Attachment 216578

Attachment 216579
Looks like you will need to the top center curved panel (not the roof panel) as well, making it three panels, if you don't replace the lower panel above the banana wrap.
Replacing the top center panel will allow you to align the other panels properly.
My guess for a professional repair bill from a dealer would be around $8000-10000.
If you do it yourself, 1500 for three panels and 300 for rivets, clecos, vulkem, drill bits, masking tape, rags and paint thinner, plus shipping.
3 long weekends and a very patient buddy to give you a hand.
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:37 PM   #17
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PeterH-Airstreamer: At the moment Im not considering the lower panel to be replaced, so were thinking only the top center and the adjacent panel to the left (and hope for the best) Clecos are ordered. It will be a new experience
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:57 PM   #18
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Fix to ceiling rib

Rib had a tear and slightly bent forward in it. I used 2 steel bars and was able to align the rib and got it straightened out.
In the picture you should be able to see the steelbar with 4 screws in it.Click image for larger version

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Old 07-17-2014, 09:59 PM   #19
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PeterH-Airstreamer: At the moment Im not considering the lower panel to be replaced, so were thinking only the top center and the adjacent panel to the left (and hope for the best) Clecos are ordered. It will be a new experience
Not replacing the panel around the scare light will make your job a lot !! easier, since you have something to line that next panel up to. Keep in mind that the corner panels are pre-formed, but not prefit. You will find that you have many options in placement of the panels.
I wish you the best of luck!
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:57 PM   #20
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Thanks Peter
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:28 AM   #21
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Interesting thing - while waitiing for Clecos to arrive, nothin to (not quite true) I tried to use some Drywall Ankers (aka Toggle bolts) to pull the skin opening together. Voila- worked like a dream. I did put big washers on both sides to prevent pulling the screw straight the skin. Looks pretty nice even before I have rivets in place, which brings up next question: Olympic rivets or Buck rivets? And what tools are needed? Pro's and con's here, please.
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:42 AM   #22
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Galvanic corrosion

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Originally Posted by RuneM46 View Post
Rib had a tear and slightly bent forward in it. I used 2 steel bars and was able to align the rib and got it straightened out.
In the picture you should be able to see the steelbar with 4 screws in it.Attachment 216582
If you leave the steel bars against the aluminum structure, corrosion will set in as soon as a little moisture condenses in between the two different metals. Basically, it's the same chemistry that is used in a battery, only slower.

Better to use aluminum to reinforce the rib and stop the reaction before it starts. Otherwise, use plenty of corrosion-resisting paint between the aluminum and the steel.
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:48 AM   #23
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Thanks MimiAndrews - will keep that in mind
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