Where is the door adjusted? I have access to the hinge bolts to the frame but they do not seam to have adjustment. To get to the hinge to door bolts it looks like I will have to remove the upper inner door skin. Is this the approach?
What specifically are you attempting to "adjust" on the door?
We have a '96 34' with a hinge that looks identical to yours. The top hinge's upper bolt spins in its hole - we were told by Sutton in OR that somehow, the nut behind the wall has come off. In order to properly "repair", we were told that the entire door and door frame would have to be removed in order to repair.
We also have the mouse fur on the wall behind the door - maybe we should drill a hole thru the inner skin behind the bolt to repair?
Makes us think that every time we take the trailer out that the door, held by 2 hinges, is only attached securely with 3 bolts & the door locks (we have a deadbolt as well)
...The top hinge's upper bolt spins in its hole ...In order to properly "repair", we were told that the entire door and door frame would have to be removed...
well that's bad info, IF just needing to tighten the hinge bolts.
the fur can be peeled back, rivets removed ALONG that sidewall and the skin lifted or opened as i've described.
as i recall there is a lock washer/nut or one lock nut on each bolt.
the hinge on my '05 has been 'repaired' twice as described in post 2...
AT the factory service center in j/c and at a dealer service shop.
next time i'm gonna have the FLAP added so i can just do it myself...
these hinge bolts COMMONLY work loose (no it's not because of running gear, wheel balance, vibrations or too much tv )...
so add a 2nd nut and lock tight and so on...
cheers
2air'
__________________ all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.johnson
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
What specifically are you attempting to "adjust" on the door?
We have a '96 34' with a hinge that looks identical to yours. The top hinge's upper bolt spins in its hole - we were told by Sutton in OR that somehow, the nut behind the wall has come off. In order to properly "repair", we were told that the entire door and door frame would have to be removed in order to repair.
This is not true. I have had my door off before with out removing the frame. Just inside the hinge I cut access holes in the inner skin about 1 1/4 in. in dia. This give you access to the nuts. They are NyLocs. I covered the holes, top and bottom hinge, with blank white electrical plates.
My current problem is adjusting the gag at the upper part of the door. I had the door off again last month when the latch broke. Looking at the outside of the hinge it looks like if there is adjustment it will have to be from within the door rather than at the frame.
Actually we did that to LIPets door last year at the Can Opener. A 2x6 cut to the desired couture and some brute force and ignorance to force things into submission.
That is not the gap I am working on. When I look at the door the gap along the hinge open from bottom to top as if the hinges have sagged or slipped in the mounting holes.
I had the door off last month and when I remounted it at 90+ degrees while on the road i did not pay that much attention to the alignment. Now when I look at it the hinge to frame position looks good and I think I will have to get into the door, as you mentioned, to see if there is adjustment in there or if I can modify things to allow adjustment.
The door on my 34' Excella was hitting the frame. The bolts on the top hinge were loose and could not be tightened. I was able to remove the old bolts on the top hinge and then drilled new 1/4" holes right through into the inside. They came out right at the edge of the "kitchen" paneling. Then I got two 1/4" stainless steel machine screws with heads to match the old ones. Push them through the newly bored holes and put locking nuts (elastic stop nuts, the kind with the little nylon insert) on them and the hinge is secure and the door fits like a charm.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Phil
__________________ Phil & Doris Drugge WBCCI #4941 2006 Dodge 2500 4wd w/Cummins diesel.
Ext. cab, tonneau, and 16.5 mpg towing!
Well if there is adjustment in the door I can't find it.
The bolts both into the trailer frame and door itself are close fitted holes that have not elongated. The pins in the hinge are tight. Nothing appears to be bent.
Here are pictures of the bolts into the trailer frame and into the door itself. The upper one is of the inside of the door and the lower shows the access to the frame bolts.
If I want to reduce the gap produced by the door sag it looks like I will have to remove the door and cut the upper hinge to frame hole back and then remount the door. The problem with that will be backing up the holes so the door can not drop again.
Before you do something really radical, that you might regret, think about this.
Is it possible to put a screen door turnbuckle on the outer door? My front screen door on our house gave me all sorts of trouble until I put a turnbuckle on it. They usually come in two lengths. I think the shorter one would would be ok for an Airstream door. At worst, you'll end up with two small screw holes in your door if it doesn't work.
And they don't cost a lot either.
__________________ Phil & Doris Drugge WBCCI #4941 2006 Dodge 2500 4wd w/Cummins diesel.
Ext. cab, tonneau, and 16.5 mpg towing!
...The problem with that will be backing up the holes so the door can not drop again.
Howie,
You can create a backing plate that goes inside the skin with non-enlongated holes, then rivit it in place to hold the hinge bolts in the new location. Flush rivits from the outside will allow everything to reassemble.
__________________ Hi Ho Silver RV!
Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie - 'Epiphany' the 29' Airstream and a honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy
Howie,
You can create a backing plate that goes inside the skin with non-enlongated holes, then rivit it in place to hold the hinge bolts in the new location. Flush rivits from the outside will allow everything to reassemble.
You may have something here. I think a backer plate could be made and bolted into place with flat headed bolts and have them hidden under the hinge. Have to look into that.
I had to elongate the upper holes in my door frame in order to close a upper gap also. I used serrated plates under the nuts to hold it in place. I found the plate in my misc. hardware box at work so I have no idea what airplane it came off of originally. I just cut it in half to work.
By the way, I don't like the welding idea. The door is steel and aluminum. That is two different welding processes. And if you add some stainless, another problem. It would all have to TIG welded. I taught that type of welding and used it for many years. I wouldn't want to go there unless it was a last resort.
__________________ Phil & Doris Drugge WBCCI #4941 2006 Dodge 2500 4wd w/Cummins diesel.
Ext. cab, tonneau, and 16.5 mpg towing!
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