Caulking and Sealants (silicone, parbond, vulkem & more)

[Jim & Susan]

I used Parbond behind seams and in other areas where it can't been seen. Primarily where the banana wrap attaches. You're right, it's messy. The Sikaflex is very hard to use also, it takes two hands to sqeeze it out of the tube, and then is goopy once out. Sticks to everything and is near impossible to get smooth. Thanks for the tip.

Jim

[SilverGate]

Lewster (post #127) and wahoonc (post #138) got it right…
Alan Wuebbenhorst, Airstream Relations Representative confirmed last week to me…
That Airstream uses Sikaflex 221 for large work and Acryl-R for the small stuff…
Such as sealing seams. Good, just what I needed for the missing sealant over my Vista Window.
It was my only leak allowing a few drops of water to trickle down onto the blinds next to Galley.

So I ordered Acryl-R with its wonderful applicator from Airstream’s Store:
http://www.airstream.com/shop/dynamic.php?ProdCat=Maintenance&action=cat&offset= 15

The product came Friday and I applied it last Saturday (See photos below).

Acryl-R is a small joint sealant designed for sealing mechanically fixed joints.
Information on the can continues, "This sealant has excellent resistance to ultraviolet radiation, atmospheric oxidation, and temperature extremes. It remains ductile and adheres to most commonly used fabrication surfaces."
I agree with lewster that application is easy and cleanup can be done with isopropyl alcohol.

I am happy to tell you that after heavy rains last night and today, I’ve not had a single drop of water enter trailer!

SilverGate

[SilverGate]

Areas of missing sealant over our top Curbside Vista View Window:

[SilverGate]

SilverGate applying sealant for his first time!

[SilverGate]

Application close-up:

[2airishuman]

hi silvergate...

excellent demo shots!

the acryl-r has 2 nice/unique characteristics...

1. it seeps into the gap via capillary action,
2. as it dries any high spots seem to retract/flatten

so even a beginners work can look great.

on the negative side, it doesn't last as long as 221 or vulkem...

so usually it isn't applied in critical seams or really high stress areas.

trim, tail lights, running lights, and alcoa panel overlaps are the usual places...

i had a gap along the top of a vista view, like your photo,

and the a/s factory guys used sikaflex there.

they applied a big glob sort of like doing home/bathroom sealant.

then mushed it into the gap and wiped 'some' of the excess away; then applied more.

so there was a big line of sealant. they LIKE using large amts of this stuff.

i asked the fellow "why not acryl-r there?" and

he said the window frames flex/contract differently than the panels with heat/cold ....

if your work doesn't survive the california sun, next time try the sikaflex.

but the acryl-r kit is fun to use...

cheers
2air'

[SilverGate]

Thanks, 2air’… Well I did get a tube of Sikafex 221 from our Airstream Dealer…
He told me the trick is to smooth it on with a moistened finger.
So if that Acryl-R does not hold where I put it, I’ll sic Sikaflex on it!

SilverGate

[lewster]

..............on the SikaFlex tubes. they seem to brcome virtually unuseable on or about the date printed on the label.

[CanoeStream]

A partially used tube can be saved by putting aluminum foil over the snout, throw it in a couple bread wrappers and toss it in the freezer. Like camera film (do they still make that? ... and Airstreams?) the freezer can probably extend beyond an expiration date. Don't use my name in explaining it to any domestic partner!

Sikaflex is usable pretty quick out of the freezer. I probably would worry about sweating and adhesion if you use it cold in a humid environment.

[SilverCabin]

I need to drill four holes in the front panel just under the window to mount a Level Master level. The Level Master is a large level in an aluminum frame. I've got aluminum sheet metal screws for the mounting. Do I need to put any sealer on the holes before and/or after I drive the screws? I have a small tube of aluminum gutter sealer (Seamer Mate, it was mentioned around post #70 in this thread), can I use that, so I don't have to buy a big tube of something that will go to waste?

[BIGED52]

Randy, Always.... Always put some sealer in new drill holes and dip the aluminum screws threads in sealer before installing them. You shold be fine with gutter seal as a temporary seal just keep in mind it will probably dryout and crack sooner than Vulkem or Sikaflex or Acryl-R. Where did you purchase your Level Master? Ed

[Fyrzowt]

Is that gallon can of Acryl-R pictured above going to dry out like the tubes? Will it need to be used right away?
Dave

[lewster]

Dave,

I believe it's a pint and mine has been useable for over a year. You just have to clean out the applicator tip once in a while................

[SilverGate]

Fyrzowt… lewster is right… it is actually a can holding 16 fl. oz. of sealant.
The applicator came with no instructions, so after my application, I unscrewed the applicator and pumped the remaining sealant back into the can and flushed out the applicator with the recommended isopropyl alcohol.

Lewster… thanks for sharing your experience with Acryl-R… if I read you right, the next time I put the applicator in the can, I should just leave it in there until the can is used up… and occasionally use the wire pin that they supply to unclog the nozzle?
And do you store this can in a cool or cold place?

Thanks,
SilverGate