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Old 02-13-2014, 03:20 PM   #15
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Drat! I can't even find it online.

All that came close was

https://www.airpartsinc.com/shopexd.asp?id=167

and it's too small a dimension.

I have a new query which I guess I could start here…. Rivet guns. The rivet gun kit from VintageTrailersupply looks geared to 1/8 AND 5/32… since I'm going NEW construction.

I'm guessing I only need 1/8?
I also need a de-burring tool I assume.
I also assume I'll go with Brazier not Universal rivets because I'm sure there is some advantage I don't know about.

So my Rivet buy list would be slightly different. Any input would be appreciated:

I copied this from VTS. What's in RED I would NOT Need. Blue is what I'm adding.

3X Pneumatic Rivet Gun with Beehive Spring & Air Regulator ($149.99)
Rivet Set for Airstream Rivets (1/8" Brazier & 5/32" Modified Brazier) ($10.99)
Bucking Bar ($19.99)
Heavy Duty Rivet Cutter ($39.99)
Marvel Mystery Oil ($2.97) I have pneumatic tool oil
25 Copper 1/8" Clecos ($14.99)
25 Black 5/32" Clecos ($14.99)
Cleco Pliers ($7.99)
2 No.21 Split Point Drill Bits ($4.98)
2 No.30 Split Point Drill Bits ($4.38)
4oz of 1/8 Brazier Head Solid Rivets 1/4" Long [Approx 450 rivets] ($6.99)
4oz of 1/8 Brazier Head Solid Rivets 1/2" Long [Approx 290 rivets] ($6.99)
4oz of 5/32 Modified Brazier Head Solid Rivets 1/4" Long [Approx 340 rivets] ($6.99)
4oz of 5/32 Modified Brazier Head Solid Rivets 3/8" Long [Approx 265 rivets] ($6.99)
4oz of 5/32 Modified Brazier Head Solid Rivets 1/2" Long [Approx 205 rivets] ($6.99)

Deburring tool
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Old 02-13-2014, 04:32 PM   #16
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I'll have a go. I'd stick with Universal head rivets. I do on my Airstream stuff as it's very close in appearance to brazier and modified brazier but also because it's readily available and the head is more forgiving. Doubly so on your project as there is no originality to keep up.

I'd also get 3/32" or #40 drill bits and Cleco. When you are building a new part you typically want to start with the smallest hole and end up with a perfect #30 to pop that 1/8" rivet in. Just to be more clear say you are making a patch or new skin, you do the layout and drill off at #40, assemble and cleco, check, drill to #30, disassemble, clean up and assemble, check, disassemble, seal and reassemble then rivet. Or something similar that works for you.

I'd also get the intermediate rivet length in 1/8" if that's what you expect to use most.

Hole deburring tools are nice but an old 1/4" drill bit stuffed in a file handle or wrapped up a ton of tape is just fine. Edge duburring tools are also nice but a smooth file is decent too.

The beehive spring is something I have loads of kicking around; I have never seen one used on a gun in aviation, ever. Everyone I have ever worked with has used shock cord tied in a loop at either end, one end over the handle one over the "snap" (snap is a rivet set). I'd say it would be fine in manufacturing to use a beehive if you were shooting just one size rivet and you didn't need to get in tight spots or if you felt the urge to pull the trigger when holding the gun in mid air….

So, just trying to answer you enquiry really but with your list you would also do just great with the addition of the smaller drill bit and clecos.

Separate note but I'd buy a $30 30" metal brake and some .032" aluminum and make my own C channel. It's handy to have for making other little stuff the only snag is you have to cut the aluminum into strips first; and if you do I'd suggest cutting against the grain so you bend against the grain, it'll turn out better and stronger.
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:10 AM   #17
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Excellent! What would you consider an intermediate length? Also I found a dizzying array of rivets… soft and hard.

SOLID ALUMINUM RIVETS - UNIVERSAL HEAD - AN470 from Aircraft Spruce

Any recommendations would be apprectiated.
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:11 AM   #18
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And do you mean 5/32 clecos? or 3/32 clecos? Nevemind. I found em.
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:29 AM   #19
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Silver ones :-)
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:35 AM   #20
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Silver… got it.

So it sounds like I start with

AN470 Soft Rivets 1/8"D 3/8"L
With a 3.5 inch 1/8 Straight Rivet set

You actually got me thinking silver and it appears all the "AN" rivets are anodized and are brass like finish to start…

I couldn't find "Silver" per se. OH, you mean silver clecos. I misread.

derrrrrr…..
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:46 AM   #21
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For design/layout ideas look at Trilliums, Bolers and Scamp's.
They have great use of space, are a similar shape to the Airstream and about the same size as your trailer.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:53 AM   #22
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Yup Yup. You can use the soft 470's (A) or the harder (AD) alloy rivets. It's a tricky choice here as you're engineering it yourself, but the AD's are a lot stronger than A's. Airstream uses A's for pretty much everything as I understand it but if you think a bit of extra durability wouldn't hurt such as in the front or rear hold down zones AD's might be prudent. The coating on all the rivets will come off very very easily, it's funny as it's there for it's anti corrosion properties and "we" want it off. The 3 1/2" straight set will be great. To assess the length you want add up the material thickness that you want to hold and add 1 1/2 times the diameter of the rivet to it.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:59 AM   #23
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Oh no!!! I have to do math! What is the world coming to!
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:01 PM   #24
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Well, I always like to go with stronger. I assume they will take a little more skill to buck in?

The Harder ones?
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:15 PM   #25
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They are a little harder to buck not much; however they are also easier to drill out cleanly should you make a learning error. Rivets are super cheap so you could always buy some of both and experiment during the learning on scrap phase.
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:42 PM   #26
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Whoooop!

OK, everything is coming in the mail. Once I learn to rivet properly I'll start building the frame. I'm not fooling around here!

My next challenge is C Channel though….

1. Don't I want long pieces? That's why the 10 footers sound tasty.

2. Not that I doubt you guys but $2.10 a foot is high? But, But,… it'll all be done and pretty.

I guess I could make an 10 foot break in my shop? Hmmm…. but by my calculations that might save make it 1.10 a foot… Hmmmm… I'm pondering.

Pondering.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:55 PM   #27
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Is the C channel is just going around the floor like on an Airstream?
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Old 02-14-2014, 03:11 PM   #28
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It sounds like in my situation I can use the C Channel for the entire frame.

Uprights, Baseplates, Joists, Window/Door headers… the woiks!
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