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Old 10-11-2009, 06:56 PM   #1
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Safari 25' FB Twin - Where is our water pump & how do we access it??

Help!
It's time to winterize our Airstream and we can't seem to find the elusive water pump. Went on our final camping trip this weekend and we had 7 fellas attempting to help me locate it to no avail.

The manual is delightfully (NOT) vague on where it is located in our 2007 FB Twin Safari SE.

If it is truly located under our tiny wardrobe in a small access door how do we add the bypass kit?

We'd like to winterize tomorrow or Tuesday so any help is greatly appreciated! Pictures would earns you eternal gratitude.

Teresa
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:08 PM   #2
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Hi Teresa

It is indeed located under the closet floor. It is sometimes hidden under the heat ducts that run through the closet space. It is fairly easy to see once you move the heat ducts a little.

Andy
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:22 PM   #3
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Open the cupboard under the refrigrator. The rear panel in the back of the cupboard is held in by two screws. Remove the panel to find the water pump. This is how I get to the winterization valve. FYI - the winterization kit was an add-on from my dealer, not stock on my unit.

The panel underneath the closet opens on a hinge, but there is no handle on the outside. This also allows you to see the water pump, but if yours is like mine, you could never reach it to install / use the winterization kit.
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:47 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew T View Post
Hi Teresa

It is indeed located under the closet floor. It is sometimes hidden under the heat ducts that run through the closet space. It is fairly easy to see once you move the heat ducts a little.

Andy
Hi Andy,
Armed with a flash light, warm clothes, and your instructions I did find the water pump under there. I was happy to see your reply!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperion View Post
Open the cupboard under the refrigrator. The rear panel in the back of the cupboard is held in by two screws. Remove the panel to find the water pump. This is how I get to the winterization valve. FYI - the winterization kit was an add-on from my dealer, not stock on my unit.

The panel underneath the closet opens on a hinge, but there is no handle on the outside. This also allows you to see the water pump, but if yours is like mine, you could never reach it to install / use the winterization kit.
I was thinking this same thing as I was inspecting the amazingly overwhelming array of tubing and wires in the aforementioned hinged closet.

My little cupboard under the fridge is TINY (like small enough that only a box of cereal fits sitting on the skinny side (think landscape)). Is yours this small too? Do you have a picture of what your kit looks like installed?

Makes me want to dump the AF right into the water tank.... I'm hoping it will get easier as we become more experienced AS owners. Right now the whole winterizing thing is making me a bit ill....
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:03 PM   #5
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Teresa - I posted about my bypass valve install here. The pump is behind the lower panel to the left of the shower. You will have to temporarily disconnect the furnace duct that routes through that door-without-a-handle or other discernable method of opening. Unscrew the 4 phillips head screws than hold down the pump. Move the pump toward you and put the Camco bypass on the intake side of the pump (use teflon tape to seal threads). Then screw the pump back down to the floor with the original screws.

I'm winterizing on Tuesday. To locate your main plumbing drain -- open the curbside forward outside compartment. On a 25' FB you will see 3 valves into the water heater per john hd's diagrams. There is a fourth valve closest to the floor -- this is the main plumbing drain I referenced. This one drains directly thru the belly pan underneath. That's where I put a bucket to collect antifreeze after I'm done.
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream View Post
...

I'm winterizing on Tuesday. To locate your main plumbing drain -- open the curbside forward outside compartment. On a 25' FB you will see 3 valves into the water heater per john hd's diagrams. There is a fourth valve closest to the floor -- this is the main plumbing drain I referenced. This one drains directly thru the belly pan underneath. That's where I put a bucket to collect antifreeze after I'm done.
Many thanks Bob!
I've printed out your picture and directions for the install of the 3-way bypass valve. Will be going to the local RV store tomorrow.

As for the plumbing drain - my husband and I are wondering why we need to open the main plumbing drain and where it actually drains. Obviously I don't know where the belly pan is. If I understand correctly there are three valves to bypass the hot water heater (and H configuration) and then another valve on the floor of the compartment that is in another white pipe and the valve turned to be the same direction as the pipe. Is this the valve you mentioned?

DH wants to know if my 'message board friends' think it is OK winterize inside the pole barn if we figure out the belly pan thing and catch all draining liquids. I hope it is because that's where all DH's cool tools live.
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:03 PM   #7
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Yep – that little storage compartment under the refrigerator is tiny. I removed the inside panel this year to get to my winterization kit and decided to just leave if off. No real loss of storage space.

My pump is installed with the intake facing to the rear and the output to the front. The output side is what I can see when I open the panel under the closet. I watched the dealer install the winterization kit. He removed the intake, installed the three way valve, and then reattached the input to the three way valve. He did this without moving the pump – there was enough play in the intake line – but my setup may be different. Just a few inches in the intake pipe length or water pump location may make a difference.

Sorry – no pictures. Not sure I could get a camera into the compartment. I attach the antifreeze hose by feel, reaching between the heating duct pipes.

One other thought – I have the Camco winterization kit and the input hose is too short to reach a jug of antifreeze once attached to the three way valve. I bought an additional 18” of hose from Ace hardware and attached it to the original with a brass connector. The hose is 5/8" interior diameter, if I remember correctly.

Good luck – the pump location is less than ideal.
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperion View Post
Open the cupboard under the refrigrator. The rear panel in the back of the cupboard is held in by two screws. Remove the panel to find the water pump. This is how I get to the winterization valve. FYI - the winterization kit was an add-on from my dealer, not stock on my unit.

The panel underneath the closet opens on a hinge, but there is no handle on the outside. This also allows you to see the water pump, but if yours is like mine, you could never reach it to install / use the winterization kit.
The panel under the closet is on hinges - no handle but use a scraper or knifeblade or fingers if very strong and it will open just like the closet.

Paula
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:18 PM   #9
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Teresa, the valve handles oriented the same direction as the pipe are open and will allow flow. The lowest of the 4 valves in the roadside compartment is normally oriented cross-ways -- closed.

campadk had asked whether the system has to be full of antifreeze over the winter. It does not -- once blown out and having antifreeze run through it. It also doesn't hurt to have antifreeze left in it. So I'm wondering if, for now, this main drain/bucket issue is an unnecessary distraction. You've got enough other things to get through first.
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:47 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by CanoeStream View Post
Teresa, the valve handles oriented the same direction as the pipe are open and will allow flow. The lowest of the 4 valves in the roadside compartment is normally oriented cross-ways -- closed.

campadk had asked whether the system has to be full of antifreeze over the winter. It does not -- once blown out and having antifreeze run through it. It also doesn't hurt to have antifreeze left in it. So I'm wondering if, for now, this main drain/bucket issue is an unnecessary distraction. You've got enough other things to get through first.
I think you are most correct!

I'll change the orientation of the valve tomorrow and post a picture if you would be kind enough to tell me if we are all set for the winterization/blowout. I drained the HW heater today and have the water heater valves set for winter (I hope).

I sure hope someday I'm a help to a newbie. You are all so great!

Teresa
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:09 AM   #11
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I drained the HW heater today and have the water heater valves set for winter (I hope).
Who knows? Can't trust much if you follow this guy's advice.

Having the HW heater valves in winter position will save you from filling your HW heater with 6 gallons of unneeded antifreeze. All the HW heater needs is to have the drain plug removed. A puddle water resting in the bottom is no problem.
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:30 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream View Post
Who knows? Can't trust much if you follow this guy's advice.

Having the HW heater valves in winter position will save you from filling your HW heater with 6 gallons of unneeded antifreeze. All the HW heater needs is to have the drain plug removed. A puddle water resting in the bottom is no problem.
I guess I've completed step one of winterizing. The drain plug is out! WHEW.
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:43 PM   #13
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Success!

Had a successful buying trip to the RV store. Came home with a blow out plug, a winterizing bypass kit, and four darling AS looking table cloth weights. All required for the winterizing process!

Boy did we have 'fun' putting that puppy in. Armed with CanoeStream's picture, flashlights and our new gadgets out we went. We removed the little door under the wardrobe & under the fridge. With a little torquing that back access panel under the fridge came right off Even so it was really tight to get in there. Hubby is 6'2" and I'm not petite. In the spacious hallway splayed out on the floor we managed to get the bypass hooked up. More by braille than anything.

Thank goodness our hoses looked exactly like CanoeStream's picture. I kept telling my hubby "we only have to put this thing in once and then it will be easy every year". Right?

We blew out our lines. Sucked up the pink stuff. Poured some down the drains and I'm thinking we are done till spring. Then we have to figure out what to do to get the tanks ready for camping in the spring. I'm getting this goodie for the blow out before next year.

Did anyone have to put a longer line on the bypass (the thing that sticks in the jug of potable antifreeze)?

Into the barn tomorrow where I will proceed to do a deep clean!

Why doesn't Airstream just put one of those water pump bypass kits in when they build the camper????????? Doesn't at least half of the country live in a cold climate? Aren't they in OHIO???? I'll happily pay $10 more for my Airstream and have them install the bypass before they put the fridge and wardrobe on top of it.

Thank you to everyone on this thread and the other one I was posting on for your help.

Teresa
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:50 PM   #14
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Don't forget to spray pink stuff out through your outside shower if so equipped!

-yakman
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