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Old 10-26-2009, 07:55 PM   #1
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Profile:  1979 23' Safari
1954 29' Liner
Orange , California
Posts: 2,148

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazyjohnny View Post
I guess I need to put the pics on some sort of website then post a link to them. Arghhh! I read all through the owners literature on the trailer and no where does it give you any load requirements on the WDH bars. It does give you hitch heights which is the same as the hitch manufacturers instructions that I followed. Sorry all I am not buying the hitch being too stiff as the problem. Does anyone know the alloy and heat treat for the skin on these trailers? (ex. 6061 T6, 2023 T5, etc.)
krazyjohnny,

You can post pictures in the thread. Go down to manage attachments when you compose your post and upload the pictures.

Bill
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:14 PM   #2
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Profile:  1967 22' Safari
1960 18' "Footer"
Edmonds , Washington
Posts: 864
Images: 7

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazyjohnny View Post
I guess I need to put the pics on some sort of website then post a link to them. Arghhh! I read all through the owners literature on the trailer and no where does it give you any load requirements on the WDH bars. It does give you hitch heights which is the same as the hitch manufacturers instructions that I followed. Sorry all I am not buying the hitch being too stiff as the problem. Does anyone know the alloy and heat treat for the skin on these trailers? (ex. 6061 T6, 2023 T5, etc.)
This will help with the photos.

How to add photos to a post
  • When creating a thread or posting a reply, scroll down below the text box to the 'Additional Options' area.
  • Click "Manage attachments." A separate window will pop up.
  • Click "Browse." Then select the file from your computer to be uploaded. Be sure that the photo is appropriately sized. 1600 x 1600 pixels (or smaller) and no more than 3 Meg. Forums software will automatically reduce the size, but smaller size photos will upload much faster. You may select several photos to upload at the same time by repeating the last step.
  • Click "Upload." After pics have loaded close the pop-up window
  • Complete your post. Click "submit reply" to mount the text of your message - photos will automatically appear at the bottom of your post.
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:50 PM   #3
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Profile:  1977 31' Sovereign
Riverhead , New York
Posts: 1,838
Images: 28

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazyjohnny View Post
no where does it give you any load requirements on the WDH bars.
Really!

What do you call tongue weight?

What other reason would you need to know that?
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:11 PM   #4
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Profile:  1994 30' Excella
Huntsville , Alabama
Posts: 23
Blog Entries: 4

Andy advised me to buy the Reese Dual-Cam system with 800lbs bars for my '94 30' Excella. I hitch it on link 6, and that seems to work well, and it's not beating the fool out of the trailer.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:08 PM   #5
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Profile:  2005 25' Safari
Lakewood , California
Posts: 2,305
Images: 18
Blog Entries: 25

Failure in design.

Hi, you already have been given tons of information on causes and explanations of how and why Etc. Etc. Etc. So I will add a little more of my opinion. First off, Airstream has no business making square corners on something that flexes as much as these trailers do. I don't know about your deal/or dealer, but my dealer made the connections and hitch decissions when I was there to pick up my new trailer. If your tow vehicle is too, whatever, your dealer should have informed you. [heavy, light, weak, unsafe, under rated, over rated, wrong color Etc.] This goes for your hitch too if it wasn't part of your purchasing deal. [you brought your own hitch] Many of the things mentioned will accellerate the dammage of the square box, but the defect was built in. A square box frame would last longer if it were made from a single, seamless, billet, or one piece stamped out hardened Aluminum such as used on Aluminum body Grumman Olson trucks.
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Old 10-27-2009, 01:19 AM   #6
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Profile:  Corona , California
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Trailer damages.

Airstream, Ford, GM, or whoever, sell you a product, period.

How you use it, is up to you, the owner.

It's always the owner's responsibilty, to learn the if's, and's and but's.

That is part of what this Forum is all about, at least pertaining to Airstreaming.

If any owner wishes to take a different avenue about rigging, as an example, that is solely their choice.

There is an abundant number of posts, that state when they reduced the rating of the torsion bars the rough ride stopped and the control improved.

The test is simple. When hooked up ready for travel, jump up and down on the coupler. That should make the coupler move vertically a couple of inches.

IF NOT your rigging is excessive, be it the torsion bar rating and/or the tow vehicle

Airstream and Argosy trailers are made to have a soft ride. Violate that, and your trailer WILL experience damages, as well as not being adequately stable.

If any owner, wishes to disagree with that, that then is their business and loss of happy Airstreaming.

Many folks have stated what should be done, yet others all blame Airstream, because of their unwillingness to listen to "FACTS", not personal opinions.

Yes, even Reese will say the a large Airstream, based on their chart, should have a 1200 pound hitch.

The news is, that Reese, nor any other hitch manufacturer, has "EVER" repeat "EVER" tested their published suggestions, by using what they profess, on an Airstream.

Therefore the only conclusion that can be made, is until they do that, they are in no position to spec out any ratings for their hitches, for Airstreaming.

Loss of control accidents are caused over 80 percent of the time, by improper rigging and/or rear end suspension modifications. That is "FACT" based on extensive examinations and testing of over 1000 (one thousand) loss of control accidents, specifically when towing an Airstream or Argosy.

If you want to believe that, then fine. If you wish to "NOT" believe it, then the problem is all yours, no one elses.

An additional fact is that when an Airstream or Argosy trailer becomes damaged, other than from a "sudden, accidental and direct" cause, your insurance company will always decline coverage for long term damage.

Ignoring the facts, being stubborn, not listening to good advice, listening to a personal opinion that's wrong, is all a person's choices.

Blaming Airstream, is "NOT" the problem, nor the answer.

Hundreds of owners with new trailers are not having the "fatigue" problem, so why the few????

Ah yes, Airstream service departments love customers who damage their trailers, thru misuse. It's great for their bottom line.

Opinions are just that.

Facts are facts that can be demonstrated and proven, at least to those who choose to, for once, listen.

Physics are Physics. When they are violated, negative results step forward.

We all went to school to learn. I was always taught, that learning is a life long "good" thing to do.

Unfortunately, there are some that disagree with that, especially when it comes to Airstreaming.

And so it is.

Andy
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Old 10-27-2009, 02:12 AM   #7
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Profile:  2005 25' Safari
Lakewood , California
Posts: 2,305
Images: 18
Blog Entries: 25

Airstream versus Ford & GM.

Hi, FACT is, that this square box is weak and is going to crack sooner or later no matter what you do.

Fact, Ford & GM will repair a bad finish coating; Airstream won't.

Fact, Ford & GM manufacture vehicles with balanced running gear; Airstream doesn't.

Fact, Ford & GM will repair cracks caused by known weak areas or by out of balance running gear, from the factory; Airstream won't.

Fact, Ford & GM have a rust through policy for five years; Airstream doesn't.

Fact, Ford & GM have had recalls for body cracks; Airstream hasn't yet.

Fact, Ford & GM will send factory engineers out to diagnois problem vehicles; Airstream doesn't.
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2005 Safari 25-B
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[ Small Silver Castle ]
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YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
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Old 10-27-2009, 09:05 AM   #8
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Profile:  2001 30' Limited
Novato , California
Posts: 1,062
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"The test is simple. When hooked up ready for travel, jump up and down on the coupler. That should make the coupler move vertically a couple of inches."

Regarding the test... is this a guy who weighs in @ 270lbs or say a smaller guy that's a little over 160?
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Old 10-27-2009, 09:11 AM   #9
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Profile:  2010 31' Classic
Longmont , Colorado
Posts: 244
Images: 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airslide View Post
"The test is simple. When hooked up ready for travel, jump up and down on the coupler. That should make the coupler move vertically a couple of inches."

Regarding the test... is this a guy who weighs in @ 270lbs or say a smaller guy that's a little over 160?
How high should he jump?
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:51 AM   #10
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Profile:  Corona , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts View Post
How high should he jump?
12 to 14 feet.

Nah, only kidding.

2 to 4 inches is plenty.

Andy
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:49 AM   #11
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Profile:  Corona , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airslide View Post
"The test is simple. When hooked up ready for travel, jump up and down on the coupler. That should make the coupler move vertically a couple of inches."

Regarding the test... is this a guy who weighs in @ 270lbs or say a smaller guy that's a little over 160?
Any size and weight "adult" can do the job.

Andy
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:23 PM   #12
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Profile:  2005 25' Safari
Lakewood , California
Posts: 2,305
Images: 18
Blog Entries: 25

?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?

Hi, doesn't the size and weight have anything to do with physics?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post

Physics are Physics.

Andy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Any size and weight "adult" can do the job.

Andy
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[ Small Silver Castle ]
2000 Navigator / Equal-i-zer / P-3
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Old 10-27-2009, 09:25 AM   #13
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Profile:  2008 30' Classic S/O
Dearborn , Michigan
Posts: 472
Images: 6

St*ff happens, folks. 'Cracking'- whether it's structural or not (waiting for pix), on a few units does NOT mean there's a fundamental design flaw with Airstream frames. 66% still in service, right?
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:41 AM   #14
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  2007 20' Safari SE
Battle Lake , Minnesota
Posts: 49

Good points made by all. But if we want to hook up our Airstreams and go, Inland Andy's advice cannot be ignored. Experience is valuable and we are fortunate to have that input. Can we have the "soft" connection Andy recommends with the balance and stability needed for safety, and still have the reserve power to pull the long grades? Is it in suspension, the hitch arrangement, or are there other factors? We adore our new Airstream and are about to leave on an extended trip, so I guess we will learn as we go.

Doug and Cheryl
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