'68 overlander

[steve68]

My wife and I bought this 68 26' overlander to restore. I started by removing everything out of the bath to replace the sagging floor. I was able to remove the rotting plywood without having to remove belly pan to access to the bolts. I removed the grey water tank and found a great deal of rust. I plan on cleaning the area out with a powerwasher or a shopvac. I am looking for some advice on my next step.

1. Should I replace the grey water tank now that I have the floor up?

2. Do I need to drop the belly pan to bolt the floor to the body or can I just run
the floor to the wall and then screw it down?

thank's

[SilverHoot]

Steve,

Airstreams did not come with grey tanks in 1968. I think what you are talking about is actually the black tank which if has no leaks could be reused.

[till]

Steve,
Welcome to the CCC (Curved Corning Club)
You will need to remove the belly pan if you plan on using the original method of holding the floor in place i.e. elevator bolts.
Here is a link that you will find very helpful Tom's Overlander page

I am working on my '68 Overlander now too.

[Silverwanabe]

Hi,

Welcome to the club!!

Your unit has foam insulation in the floor my 67 Overlander does not.
Do you know if a previous owner added that to support the floor??

Also, you will need a new black tank box built to hold the tank.

Costs will add up quick even doing it yourself.

The floor is 5/8" thick.

This site is a wealth of information plus Tom's 67 Overlander website.
It provided me a great deal of knowledge in the restoration process.

Good Luck

[steve68]

Originally Posted by till

Steve,
Welcome to the CCC (Curved Corning Club)
You will need to remove the belly pan if you plan on using the original method of holding the floor in place i.e. elevator bolts.
Here is a link that you will find very helpful Tom's Overlander page

I am working on my '68 Overlander now too.

Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to remove the pan so I can bolt the plywood to the body. I have heard it adds to strength of the body.

[steve68]

I'm not sure if the insulation is original, I found some paperwork in the owners manual showing some work had done in the 80s. I'm debating if I should just replace the black water tank or try to use the same one. Do you know if i need to fab. a tank support or can I buy one? Thanks for your help.

[SilverHoot]

I believe you will have to fab one. Most any sheetmetal shop should be able to do it for you.

[68 TWind]

The box is made from galvanized sheet metal. Tom's site has good pics of what you need.
I had a similar mess on my 68 Trade Wind and it also had foam insulation. I think mine was done at the factory as it is in places where the belly pan has never been removed.
Couple of time savers on the floor. Make a pattern out of 1/8 luan plywood for the replacement piece. The finish floor is very heavy so the light patter makes the fitting much easier. My original floor was so bad it could not be used as a template. You will have to install the new floor in two pieces. It is impossible to slide a whole sheet into place without removing the shell. I split mine along the top of the frame rail on the street side. When you get everything fitted, and most likely you will want to remove more of the interior to have room to work, cut the new piece from the 5/8. If you will put a slight bevel on the edge of the new wood, it will slip into the channel much easier. Also, I coated the edges with several coats of a marine epoxy resin and then put 4 coats of marine urethane spar varnish on top and bottom to give it as much protection from water as possible.
Finally, while you have everything out put the rear hatch on and have someone spray the outside of the trailer with water. Find the leaks, and there will be leaks, and fix them. I had leaks all around the frame of the hatch, the door of the hatch, and the window frame. If you would like any pic, PM me and I'll send them but Tom's site covers it very well.
Home Depot has the self drilling/tapping floor blots that you can use i places were you can't get a nut on the elevator bolt. VTS has the large flat head bolts you will need.