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Old 08-20-2013, 05:42 PM   #15
Restorations done right
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1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
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I have followed this train of thought too. Though I have not used veneer on the interior skins, I have veneered a number of cabinets and have had very mixed results. Maybe some of my failures might help others...
I used a very high grade contact cement to adhere paper maps to the interior skins. It failed horribly. The problem is that aluminum is a wet metal. In saying that, aluminum loves to pull moisture from the air. Even though it looks and feels dry, the thin film of moisture acts as a barrier between the aluminum and the glue. The bond failed after just a few years. Wood veneer would suffer the same results, but much faster, in my opinion.
I have also had veneers bubble when applied to wood substrate due to the extreme heat/ cool going on in a closed trailer. I would never use contact cement to apply veneers in any situation again due to this. I only apply veneers using urea glue in a vacuum bag situation now.
So, how to get that wood look? I think Pete's on to something. Those vinyl decals are used on auto exteriors which get very hot/cold daily and they hold up very well. I think using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood over or even instead of, the interior skins would be a good solution also. A forum member did it a few years back and I have wondered how it has held up. Unfortunately he is no longer active here.

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Old 08-21-2013, 12:50 AM   #16
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1959 22' Flying Cloud
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Originally Posted by Aage View Post
Looks very nice, Pete, but I must admit you surprised me with the cost of that printed material.

How do you think that would compare to using a real wood veneer over the aluminum?
Yes, I was surprised when I got the bill too! I'm not saying it would be an option for everyone, but I found the economies came when applying and fitting the print. As a cost comparison, you would have to look at what was available in your local market, think about labour and extras, and make up your own mind on what felt right for you.
It ticked a lot of boxes for me in that there were no glues involved, it is forgiving in its application, it can be cut with scissors, it is light, and strong, stable, washable, prefinished, can be fully compound curved and the subject of whatever you print is only bound by ones creativity. If you can take a photo of it, you can have it!! It is also thin, so any clearances are easily mantained, like around windows and doors, Oh, and did I say it rolls up nicely when you pick it up from the printers- no trailer or van necessary!

I will say this though, I am actually a wood guy- I love real wood and the character of it and even the smell of it. And if I could use it as a first choice, I would every time, for cabinetry and joinery. But I am also driven by practicalities and to a degree, the bottom line ( all that scot blood probably). I think I can remember seeing some pics of the woodwork interior that Frank mentioned, some time ago, and it looked amazing, it was actually the inspiration for me on this interior. I have heard it is good to have boundaries , or a limited pallette or choice of materials-that's when you REALLY have to get creative. Hell, it's just all about having fun really isn't it?

Hey Frank! Chur bro'

Keep up the good work everyone. You are doing good things.


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Old 08-24-2013, 12:58 PM   #17
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Arlington , Texas
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I not sure if this is what you want, but go the the link I'm posting and take a look at the work done by Timeless Travel Trailers on a 71 Safari. If the link does not open, just copy and past in your browser. Hope this gives you some ideas.

Timeless Travel Trailers 1971 Safari
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:14 PM   #18
1985 31' Excella
near Chama , New Mexico
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I was just looking at some renovation sites and there were several trailers with interior veneer installed. I think one of the the sites was Sierra Nevada Restorations. I have painted over the beige palm trees in my bath and was thinking of lining the shower with tin. It doesn't look like there are any vertical/horizontal compound curves in there.
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Old 01-13-2016, 06:13 AM   #19
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Woodstock , Georgia
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I am wanting to apply some new veneer, either pressure sensitive or glued. My inner bedroom bulkhead in front of the bed has some very old water damage, so the bottom above the mattress area is partially cracked. It is not highly visible, but annoys me.
Any advice on what type veneer to use, as to getting it to adhere. I found ash veneer online that when stained should be a close match.
Also there are small areas of edges chipping on cabinet doors, I guess I will have to reeks skin them? or?. Thanks for any advice here, I have been considering this task for awhile now
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:35 AM   #20
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Woodstock , Georgia
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Rockler sells a surface banding a few inches wood that is heat applied. That might do the trick for me. Checking it out locally soon.

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