Where to get this?

[Becky B.]

I will be moving on to building wooden walls soon for my Bambi II. I kept the original extrusions to attach the walls to the outer walls. I will be hanging a TV on the wall that also serves as the shower wall on the other side. I think I should beef up the thickness of the wall from 1/4" to about 1/2" or 5/8" or maybe even 3/4". I have to make the entire interior, so the extra thickness won't effect any of the cabinets, etc. My main questions is....where would I find the channel that I need to attach it back to the outer walls? VTS has 1/4" for bulkheads, but I don't quite know what this called to conduct a search. Any help?

[bwoodtx]

Try Outwater Plastics-they have all kinds of channel and stuff

[wasagachris]

Becks it's called an F channel

[Becky B.]

Is this what I need?
F750; for 3/4 in. - Aluminum Corners, F, h, H, T and Z - Aluminum angle, Aluminum tube, Aluminum extrusions, Anodized aluminum, Aluminum pipe, Aluminum channel, Extruded Aluminum angle, brunner enterprises, Aluminum bar, aluminum rod, aluminum edging

and by the way, Chris, you're only the second person in my life to call me "Becks".....not that I care one way or the other....just sayin'

[Becky B.]

do you think it's overkill?

[wasagachris]

OK Becky it is then. "Becks is an English thing and I use is as I'm a bit of an anglophile.
Anyway I'm no expert on this stuff but that would certainly fit for a 3/4" bulkhead wall. Maybe some others will know how to bend it to contour to the curve of the shell.
As long as the 2" section against the inner skins is inside the cabinet it won't stand out much. I would think that if it was exposed to the living area of the trailer it would really be noticeable.
A 3/4" thick wall might be a bit too much. I think with enough internal bracing a thinner and lighter wall would suffice. Just my opinion though.

[Becky B.]

Thanks, Chris (and Becks is just fine) I could put the 2" section inside the shower area, I guess. I'm just afraid of the weight of the TV on a 1/4" wall would be too much, don't you?

[barts]

One of the charms of these trailers is their light weight.... I really don't think you need a 3/4" wall to hold your TV.

How much does the TV weigh, and how far away from the wall is the screen? On our Tin Pickle, a 1/4" plywood (+ glass & epoxy since it's the shower!) wall easily holds the end of a bunk bed, but that's a pure vertical load. Your 1/4" real wood wall will support the TV so long as any bending load (caused by the TV being mounted away from the surface of the wall) is distributed over some vertical distance.

If the TV is mounted on one of those swingout mounts, I'd make sure it has a safe position for trailering; the "bounce" one can experience on bad roads is sufficient to destroy these mounts unless they're designed for RV use.

- Bart

[tkasten]

If I am reading this thread correctly you want to attach the TV mounting bracket to the wall that is the shower wall on the other side. You will need to beef it up. You could glue & bolt a larger square of wood to the wall using stainless bolts and then attach your tv bracket to it. If you remove the tv for transporting then you will not need as much structure.

[Becky B.]

The TV weighs 18.8 lbs and the mount with an articulating arm weighs 12.6 lbs. It would be strapped shut while traveling, but I'm afraid the footprint of the mount (about 6" square) would be too much for 1/4". The mount is made for an RV.

[Becky B.]

Originally Posted by tkasten

If I am reading this thread correctly you want to attach the TV mounting bracket to the wall that is the shower wall on the other side. You will need to beef it up. You could glue & bolt a larger square of wood to the wall using stainless bolts and then attach your tv bracket to it. If you remove the tv for transporting then you will not need as much structure.

I don't have a wall at the moment. That's why I'm thinking I should put in a thicker wall. I've also beefed up the axles to 3600 lbs, so weight isn't really an issue.

[65CV]

Becky-

We have over 10,000 miles without problems with our food closet build. I used 1/4" ply, with the original f-channel and added 1/2" framing where necessary. I swear by West Systems Epoxy and used that to glue the framework inside. Here's a pic that may describe the idea a bit better.

In your case, it makes sense to have supports run from the floor to the height of the TV bracket, as well as horizontal supports joining the two verticals supports. If these supports are bonded with epoxy, they'll be as strong as 3/4" stock -- but only add weight where you need it.

I agree with Bart that a swivel mount is scary on the road. Hopefully, there is a secure way to prevent movement of the swivel mount.

John

p.s. Final thought: We have the same size trailer and use an adapter card that allows us to watch TV on the laptop. Less "stuff", more space

[HiHoAgRV]

How about a hollow wall? 1/4" panels on each side with a sturdy structure between. The wall would be light, the standard extrusions could be used to attach the ply wall skins to the shell, and the wires can be routed internally.

[tkasten]

HiHoAgRV - good idea!

[barts]

Originally Posted by beckybillrae

The TV weighs 18.8 lbs and the mount with an articulating arm weighs 12.6 lbs. It would be strapped shut while traveling, but I'm afraid the footprint of the mount (about 6" square) would be too much for 1/4". The mount is made for an RV.

Yup; I'd be worried about hanging 30 lbs offset from the wall on a 6" tall mount in a bouncing trailer as well. The wall itself can easily handle both the vertical load and bending loads, of course; you just need to reinforce where the mount connects so the load is tied into the wall over a larger area. I don't know how you're handling the shower; can you bolt/screw through the wall, or is epoxying something to the surface the only option? What "look" are you trying for in the trailer? We went with varnished (well, polyurethane) birch plywood and aluminum corner moldings, etc; exposed stainless fasteners don't look out of place so this made some things a little easier. If you're striving for more of a cabinet maker's dream, you've got different constraints.

- Bart

[Becky B.]

Originally Posted by barts

Yup; I'd be worried about hanging 30 lbs offset from the wall on a 6" tall mount in a bouncing trailer as well. The wall itself can easily handle both the vertical load and bending loads, of course; you just need to reinforce where the mount connects so the load is tied into the wall over a larger area. I don't know how you're handling the shower; can you bolt/screw through the wall, or is epoxying something to the surface the only option? What "look" are you trying for in the trailer? We went with varnished (well, polyurethane) birch plywood and aluminum corner moldings, etc; exposed stainless fasteners don't look out of place so this made some things a little easier. If you're striving for more of a cabinet maker's dream, you've got different constraints.

- Bart

Of course, I'm looking for the David Winnick effect! I can bolt through the wall to the shower with SS. I'm planning on using sheet plastic on that wall of the shower (it kinda has a bumpy, white, commercial look). Maybe I can spread the weight out more by making a larger frame to attach the mount to..... I like HiHoArgRV's idea too.....decisions, decisions. If only I wasn't addicted to a bit of TV before going off to sleep (and movie night with some of the extended family)

[Crusty]

I agree. Glue ¼" thick x 1" wide vertical strips of wood spaced 9-12" apart onto one surface of the plywood and then glue another ¼" sheet of plywood to the strips. Use Gorilla glue and it will will be plenty strong and much lighter too. I don't think another F channel will be required for the new sheet of plywood.

[Becky B.]

Originally Posted by Crusty

I agree. Glue ¼" thick x 1" wide vertical strips of wood spaced 9-12" apart onto one surface of the plywood and then glue another ¼" sheet of plywood to the strips. Use Gorilla glue and it will will be plenty strong and much lighter too. I don't think another F channel will be required for the new sheet of plywood.

The idea is sounding better......I wouldn't have to have any hardware in the shower if I went this way....

[dznf0g]

Becky,
I was worried about the same thing. BUT, my TV is just a 22" with a non swivel bracket...maybe 12 lbs total.

I did back up the stock wall (pocket door wall...1/4"?) with a piece of 1/4" aluminum and all is good. No structural issues after traveling for one season.

I agree with Bart's....3/4 is overkill but I think 1/4" might not do it with your weights. Just by SWAGing, I'd go 1/2".