Wall Rail Systems

[funkill]

I'm still stuck on finding curtain rods for my Silver Olive. I want to use an upper/lower rod that is supported by *closed end* brackets so that the rod is secured firmly in place. The problem is: they all project 2- 3" from the wall. I feel this is too far and would allow light to filter from above/below.

Soooooo, after searching for some alternative to rods, I came across kitchen rail systems - used to organize all sorts of kitchen stuff. (Now that I've seen this, they're pretty interesting for organizing the Airstream in a few areas - in addition to the possibility of using them as curtain rods.

This one system that I like the looks of but I don't know if it will work on the thin aluminum interior panels of the trailer.

Tubes, Holders & Posts - Lee Valley Tools

What do you think? Will the support posts (marked "J" in the picture) mount firmly in the trailer using the provided hardware? Looks like standard dry wall anchors...I have no idea if they will work in an Airstream application...


Thanks for any feedback!

Laura

PS - the OP removed most of the original curtain hardware - I know it is still available but I think I want to do something different...

[FC7039]

Thanks for sharing this idea.

I doubt the support will hold.

You can try this.

I am assuming (can't really see from the pictures) that there is a threaded headless screw. Buy some toggle bolts with the same thread as the screws. Remove the bolt from the toggle and add a wide fender washer and replace the bolt. Lubricate the bolt with cooking spray. Caulk up the toggle liberally. Drill the hole, squirt caulk into the hole, insert the toggle and tighten gently. Let the caulk set up. Unscrew the bolt and you should have an anchor to accept the support.

[boatdoc]

Hi Laura;
Go to a boat store and purchase a Stainless Steel "Taylor Made" #1010 Fender lock. Comes with 1" X 2" mounting plate which you can rivet to the interior skin in desired position. The set comes with two screws which you need to substitute with a 1/4" reach and 5/32" diameter aluminum rivet. When riveting the mounting plates be sure to place a#10 SS standard [not one with nylon insert] nut on the rivet between mounting plate and the wall as a spacer. This is to prevent the rivet from pulling the wall skin into 1/8" recess in the mounting plate. It will also prevent possibility of the rivet pulling through the skin.

In the set you get a very strong nylon peg ending with an 5/16" eye in which you can insert a 5/16 aluminum rod or a tube for a curtain rod of desired length. Slide your curtains onto the rod. Slide a nylon peg on each end of the rod and snap the pegs with curtains in place into installed mounting plate. You will have elegant and tough curtain rods that will hold 30 lbs easily. They will not fall out or slide out while traveling. It will give you 3/4" clearance between the center of the rod rod and the wall which will eliminate light intrusion. Trust me it works well and you should try at least one set before you dismiss the idea. Curved windows will require forming of the rod and support at the center of the rod [another Fender Lock] Please let me know if I can be of more help. Thanks, "Boatdoc"

[funkill]

Originally Posted by boatdoc

Hi Laura;
Go to a boat store and purchase a Stainless Steel "Taylor Made" #1010 Fender lock. Comes with 1" X 2" mounting plate which you can rivet to the interior skin in desired position. The set comes with two screws which you need to substitute with a 1/4" reach and 5/32" diameter aluminum rivet. When riveting the mounting plates be sure to place a#10 SS standard [not one with nylon insert] nut on the rivet between mounting plate and the wall as a spacer. This is to prevent the rivet from pulling the wall skin into 1/8" recess in the mounting plate. It will also prevent possibility of the rivet pulling through the skin.

In the set you get a very strong nylon peg ending with an 5/16" eye in which you can insert a 5/16 aluminum rod or a tube for a curtain rod of desired length. Slide your curtains onto the rod. Slide a nylon peg on each end of the rod and snap the pegs with curtains in place into installed mounting plate. You will have elegant and tough curtain rods that will hold 30 lbs easily. They will not fall out or slide out while traveling. It will give you 3/4" clearance between the center of the rod rod and the wall which will eliminate light intrusion. Trust me it works well and you should try at least one set before you dismiss the idea. Curved windows will require forming of the rod and support at the center of the rod [another Fender Lock] Please let me know if I can be of more help. Thanks, "Boatdoc"

I'm really trying to visualize this Boatdoc... but it seems like it would work only for an *inside* mount. If I mount the plates directly on the skin, then place the 5/16" rod over the eye... oooooohhhhhhh, now I see! Not place it OVER the eye but THROUGH the eye. But geeze, a 5/16" curtain rod is a pretty small diameter. I was thinking more along the lines of a 1/2" or 5/8" rod. I'll give it some more thought though. Sturdy = good!

Laura

[funkill]

Originally Posted by FC7039

Thanks for sharing this idea.

I doubt the support will hold.

You can try this.

I am assuming (can't really see from the pictures) that there is a threaded headless screw. Buy some toggle bolts with the same thread as the screws. Remove the bolt from the toggle and add a wide fender washer and replace the bolt. Lubricate the bolt with cooking spray. Caulk up the toggle liberally. Drill the hole, squirt caulk into the hole, insert the toggle and tighten gently. Let the caulk set up. Unscrew the bolt and you should have an anchor to accept the support.

Thanks for the idea. My concern is that the holes to insert one of those toggles are *huge* (relatively speaking). I think I'd be scared to drill that size hole in my skin.

Laura

[boatdoc]

Hi Laura:
Rods in my argosy are 1/4" diameter. Trust me they will be more than ample. If you have a nearby store it is worth for you to look at the stuff. You will then visualize the whole thing. It will be worth your trip. The nylon eyelets are a snap to remove to wash and will never fall out unless you remove them. This is not a half fast idea. Thanks, "Boatdoc"

[FC7039]

There are also rivet nuts, threaded rivets.

[funkill]

Originally Posted by FC7039

There are also rivet nuts, threaded rivets.

What the heck? I've never heard of these! Pretty cool --- thanks a lot!

Laura

[boatdoc]

Originally Posted by FC7039

There are also rivet nuts, threaded rivets.

You are right, but you need $200.00 installation tool to use them. We use it on aluminum boats to fasten things too. I have one in use for past 25 years and it is a great tool. Thanks, "Boatdoc"

[funkill]

Found some instructions for a home-made rivet nut tool. Seems reasonable with Practice, patience and LUCK. I bought some .032" sheet aluminum last night to test some common household toggles. Might stop at fastenail store to see if I can pic up a few rivet nuts and see how this works. Always good to know if something like this is possible! Will report back after the weekend - as my evenings are filling up with more *impotent* things all the sudden...

$1.87 Rivet nut tool for step/running boards. - Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums

Make Your Own Rivet Nut (RIV-NUT) Tool! - Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums


What 'cha think Boatdoc? 50/50 chance it will work?

Laura

[boatdoc]

Originally Posted by funkill

Found some instructions for a home-made rivet nut tool. Seems reasonable with Practice, patience and LUCK. I bought some .032" sheet aluminum last night to test some common household toggles. Might stop at fastenail store to see if I can pic up a few rivet nuts and see how this works. Always good to know if something like this is possible! Will report back after the weekend - as my evenings are filling up with more *impotent* things all the sudden...

$1.87 Rivet nut tool for step/running boards. - Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums

Make Your Own Rivet Nut (RIV-NUT) Tool! - Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums


What 'cha think Boatdoc? 50/50 chance it will work?

Laura

Hi Laura;
A factory installation tool has serrated seat which faces the outer collar of the Riv-nut. This serrated seat face, by biting into the top surface of the Riv-nut prevents the Riv-nut from spinning under your home made tool as you tighten the bolt. Riv-nut tool is very similar in function to a rivet gun. It comes with multiple thread rods and seats. After selection of the thread size and a seat, you thread the top end of selected pull rod into the tool and thread the Riv-nut onto extended out of the seat face pull rod. When you squeeze the grips the thin underside section of the Riv-nut collapses and forms a collar on the back side. Since you have no access to Riv-nut body behind the wall to hold it from spinning, what then? Some may grab enough to start the compression, but many will not. It seems that you are not willing to entertain my idea why? It is very simple for anyone to install. Thanks, "Boatdoc"

[bugnot1]

Originally Posted by funkill

I'm still stuck on finding curtain rods for my Silver Olive. I want to use an upper/lower rod that is supported by *closed end* brackets so that the rod is secured firmly in place. The problem is: they all project 2- 3" from the wall. I feel this is too far and would allow light to filter from above/below.

Soooooo, after searching for some alternative to rods, I came across kitchen rail systems - used to organize all sorts of kitchen stuff. (Now that I've seen this, they're pretty interesting for organizing the Airstream in a few areas - in addition to the possibility of using them as curtain rods.

This one system that I like the looks of but I don't know if it will work on the thin aluminum interior panels of the trailer.

Tubes, Holders & Posts - Lee Valley Tools

What do you think? Will the support posts (marked "J" in the picture) mount firmly in the trailer using the provided hardware? Looks like standard dry wall anchors...I have no idea if they will work in an Airstream application...


Thanks for any feedback!

Laura

PS - the OP removed most of the original curtain hardware - I know it is still available but I think I want to do something different...

I am ready to remove all the Airstream window rail rods - and this looks like what I'm looking for. I also want rod pocket window treatment - simple and close to the wall - and washable - not the standard drapery. Those rods look perfect!

Now, where are they from?

bugnot1 - jan

[funkill]

Originally Posted by boatdoc

Hi Laura;
A factory installation tool has serrated seat which faces the outer collar of the Riv-nut. This serrated seat face, by biting into the top surface of the Riv-nut prevents the Riv-nut from spinning under your home made tool as you tighten the bolt. Riv-nut tool is very similar in function to a rivet gun. It comes with multiple thread rods and seats. After selection of the thread size and a seat, you thread the top end of selected pull rod into the tool and thread the Riv-nut onto extended out of the seat face pull rod. When you squeeze the grips the thin underside section of the Riv-nut collapses and forms a collar on the back side. Since you have no access to Riv-nut body behind the wall to hold it from spinning, what then? Some may grab enough to start the compression, but many will not. It seems that you are not willing to entertain my idea why? It is very simple for anyone to install. Thanks, "Boatdoc"

Thanks for the detailed description. I know, in my home, I hate it when the toggles don't fully expand and become useless - making a simple job much more frustrating.

I haven't dismissed your idea. I've just had another particular idea in my head for quite some time - one that was posted by simonhanbury. I also like the storage/organization options affforded by these rail systems and would like to investigate the use in my trailer. And, lastly, being a mechanical engineer, learning about new fasteners (or new to me) is just interesting....

Laura

This is the curtain rod that I've always admired:

[funkill]

Originally Posted by bugnot1

I am ready to remove all the Airstream window rail rods - and this looks like what I'm looking for. I also want rod pocket window treatment - simple and close to the wall - and washable - not the standard drapery. Those rods look perfect!

Now, where are they from?

bugnot1 - jan

Well, they're from Lee Valley - think they have stores in Canada.

I do not think it will be an easy installation, as mentioned by Boatdoc. His idea is certainly much easier and have proven to hold.

I have been looking for suitable rods for over a year. Probably googled and scanned the internet stores for over 40 hours and visited a multitude of home & hardware stores looking for alternatives. I've come up short 99% of the time. I looked at modifying handle pulls, handrails, pipe hangers, boat railing, display rails, etc. The main problem is that all the attractive options will put the curtains 3+" from the wall - not very condusive for light control. Then there's the installation quandry of a single, hidden fastener. Not so good for hollow installation - especially on a 0.032" thick aluminum skin. And lastly, the cost! This one from Lee Valley is, by far, the cheapest. Most options for brackets are $9 - $25 EACH. Pretty pricey, especially when you still have to add in the cost of the rod - aluminum rod or tube and finials!

I'll eventually post all of the options that I've considered --- to save others time in research. Good luck to you!

Laura

[nm1oqrz]

Harbor Freight carries a riv-nut that can be installed with a standard pop-rivet gun. They come in6:32, 8:32 and 10:32 sizes. They install just like a pop-rivet.
Regards nm1oqrz

[boatdoc]

Originally Posted by bugnot1

I am ready to remove all the Airstream window rail rods - and this looks like what I'm looking for. I also want rod pocket window treatment - simple and close to the wall - and washable - not the standard drapery. Those rods look perfect!

Now, where are they from?

bugnot1 - jan

Hi Laura;
How are you going to install a stud in the thin aluminum wall, having no access to the back side of it? "Boatdoc"

[FC7039]

I saved this thread as I liked the original post about the tube system.

For my trailer, I had to create a bath. It has a shower pan, just not any method to contain the water. I thought I could figure out a way to hang a curtain. The first trip with the curtain idea worked OK, but, a better methods was needed.

My method is 4 hooks that a curtain could hang from. The door side is wood and hooks are no problem. The skin side is aluminum and a good anchor was a challenge. Also, my towel racks are very low and not adequate to dry towels. There is also needs for hanging swim suits and other items.

I recalled this thread and bought a few pieces. It has worked great. I used rivet nuts to anchor the t-bars that hold the rods. I purchased the S hooks and crimped them just enough that they will not come off the bar.

Do not buy the plastic connectors. They were not adequate in maintaining the bar being level if weight was added. I used a wood dowel and epoxy.

Here are a couple photos. You have to imaging the curve of the front end cap. I apologize for the fuzzy photo.