Any new thoughts on cleaners? (Other than read the instructions, plueeze!! ) Andy's post on lights in another thread has persuaded me (shamed me into really) that I need to clean off the sticky mess.
Side note, future wax has morphed into pledge with FUTURE Shine.
I've wondered the same thing. Floor wax eventually yellows and fails. What happens after that?
Jim
__________________
Remember: If the enemy is in range, so are you.
I've wondered the same thing. Floor wax eventually yellows and fails. What happens after that?
Jim
Hi Jim,
Ok, don't tell Juel, but the instructions on the pack of pledge with FUTURE Shine's label say, "Pledge Floor Finish with Future Shine should be removed every 6 to 8 applications or annually with a solution of 1 cup ammonia and 1/4 cup Armstrong Floor Cleaner in 1/2 gallon cool water. Then rinse floor with clean water." Good to know in case I felt like doing my walls 6 to 8 times a year. I plan to put a couple of applications down and see how it lasts. In the interest of science, of course.
On the cleaning topic, yesterday I spot cleaned areas with Goo Gone, Scurbbing Bubbles, denatured alchol, and Citrus Formula 409. So far I am most pleased with the 409. Works just as well or better than any of the others and cleanup is easier. Rinses right off leaving a clean nonsticky surface.
__________________ Vaughan
A sixth sense (I lack the other five) tells me that I am in serious difficulties.Oscar Levant
Here's a question. Is there anything that can remove the adhesive all together and allow me to go down to my bare aluminum walls? That could be fun. Also, I need to get up on top of my airstream and service my a/c by cleaning coils, etc... What is the procedure? Can I climb on top of it? Or what is the best way to do that? I know off subject but I'm sure someone can tell me.
Having never read this thread before, and wanting to remove the ugly brown filth from the ceiling of our AS, I recently cleaned it using full strenth Mr Clean on a damp (wrung out) rag made from an old towel.
It did a miraculous job, lightening the interior by at least two shades.
I just kept moving my "cleaning spot" on the wet towel, then rinsed it in warm water in a bucket I dragged around with me as I did the job.
My shoulder complained that it didn't like doing that kind of work for several days after, but I was and still am very pleased with the results.
I have not noticed any stickiness on our ceiling or walls before the cleaning or since. However, I will try a coat or two of the FUTURE wax, just to see the difference.
Interesting thread.
__________________ . It's a combination of Alzheimers and Deja Vu - I keep thinking I forgot this before. . .
i don't have a responce other than you are so screwed. the only thing i have found that effectively removes contact adheasive is acetone and lots of rags.
breathing equipment will be required and this stuff is dangerously flamable so take proper precausions. on the other hand will pretty much wipe the glue off onto your rags (lots of rags).
to get on the roofs i use 8' step ladder, step to awning rail then onto roof, stay on the ribs as much as you can . i've been on hundreds if not thousands of a/s roofs and not damaged any, are more supportive than you would expect.
I have appreciated reading the sage advice from many of the members concerning taking the interior wall surface down to bare aluminum.
I am in the process of removing the vinyl wallpaper from the interior of my 1965 Overlander. I've generally followed the advice of amfab from the tread started in 2002.
It works, but has required many breaks due to the fumes, which delays progress. Set-up always starts with turning my AS into a wind tunnel!
The job is about 95% finished. There's one last pain-in-the-neck, niggling issue: how do you get the last bit of vinyl off from around/underneath the interior rivets?
Advice from those who went down this path before me?
Thanks!