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Old 01-16-2012, 03:02 PM   #29
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If you can't find one near you (surely there must be one somewhere closer to you), Ralph's in Denver is good and can send you parts, and can also advise you on what you'll need for any industrial machine.
That looks like a good link. Thanks!


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What machine shop did the repair on it? Usually shops all sell parts as well as do repairs. You might also try calling any costume shops with regional theaters or clothing manufacturers in your area and ask who deals with their machines.
A Quilt shop from Watertown, SD did the repair and sold the seller her replacement machine.

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If you have no nearby industrial shop who can send someone out or bring you in to help you with learning to operate the machine, I would say go back to the lady who sold it to you and pay her to show you how to adjust the tension on the machine for different fabrics, it's really not hard. If your seam is unbalanced (thread pulling to the top or the bottom rather than right in the center of the two fabric layers), you need to be able to adjust it. (Ask specifically about the thread release finger for heavy thread, too.)
That's a good idea. I have a friend here in town who has a few machines and sews parachutes. He'd come over and help me if I buy him lunch:-) Hate to admit I have a friend that jumps out of perfectly good airplanes. What can I say?
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:10 PM   #30
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He'd come over and help me if I buy him lunch:-)
Cheap at half the price. Hey, throw in drinks afterwards and I'll come do it! j/k
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:13 PM   #31
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By the way... I'd check with your upholstery lady and your friend and see if they know anything about the rep of these companies service depts. before using them, though.
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:44 PM   #32
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Cheap at half the price. Hey, throw in drinks afterwards and I'll come do it! j/k
I'll remember that:-)
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Old 01-18-2012, 12:09 PM   #33
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Why is the piping material cut on the bias? Why not use straight cut material?
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Old 01-18-2012, 12:22 PM   #34
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It's a wear issue. Piping is there in the first place to take the wear on the edges of the object sewn. When the piping fabric is "on the grain" (meaning that the threads are running parallel to the edge), you are exposing maybe two or three threads of the fabric to wear, constantly. When the piping fabric is on the bias (meaning that the threads are running at a 45 degree angle to the edge) you have many threads taking the wear, and the fabric is more flexible besides, so more threads are taking the wear, and the piping doesn't wear out as fast.

Putting fabric on the bias means it's stretchier as well, so the piping can move with the main body a bit easier. (Especially important when the piping is going around curves.) Take a square of fabric cut on the grain and stretch it along the grain lines. Note how much it does or doesn't stretch. Now grasp the square on the bias, and note how much more stretchy it is.

Your cutting boards and rulers will make cutting bias strips very easy. You can also get tricky and sew a bias tube, but I wouldn't bother doing stuff like that in upholstery material, too stiff.
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Old 01-18-2012, 01:52 PM   #35
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It's a wear issue. Piping is there in the first place to take the wear on the edges of the object sewn. When the piping fabric is "on the grain" (meaning that the threads are running parallel to the edge), you are exposing maybe two or three threads of the fabric to wear, constantly. When the piping fabric is on the bias (meaning that the threads are running at a 45 degree angle to the edge) you have many threads taking the wear, and the fabric is more flexible besides, so more threads are taking the wear, and the piping doesn't wear out as fast.

Putting fabric on the bias means it's stretchier as well, so the piping can move with the main body a bit easier. (Especially important when the piping is going around curves.) Take a square of fabric cut on the grain and stretch it along the grain lines. Note how much it does or doesn't stretch. Now grasp the square on the bias, and note how much more stretchy it is.

Your cutting boards and rulers will make cutting bias strips very easy. You can also get tricky and sew a bias tube, but I wouldn't bother doing stuff like that in upholstery material, too stiff.

Good answer! Makes sense, Thanks!

I had to re-order the cutting mat. The first place quit selling them. The largest size marked mat I could get was 3' x 6'. It's green. Cost about $160 with freight. That's cool. I got it from Speed Press.

Magic Cutting Mat SpeedPress Sign Supply

I'll post how it works when I get it.
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:01 PM   #36
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Did you order the big clear cutting rulers as well? You'll definitely want one of those.
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:06 PM   #37
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Actually, now that I think about it, it might in fact be worth making the continuous bias strip tube with upholstery fabric. (Seeing as how seat cushions do need long bias piping.) Just remember that when you cut it, you'll also be cutting the thread at the end of the seams and take it easy so you don't open the seam up by accident. (And if you do, heck, just sew it back up again anyway.)

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Old 01-18-2012, 02:08 PM   #38
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I had to re-order the cutting mat. The first place quit selling them. The largest size marked mat I could get was 3' x 6'. It's green. Cost about $160 with freight. That's cool. I got it from Speed Press..
It might be too late, but you might try here.
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:29 PM   #39
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It might be too late, but you might try here.
I'll add the link to my short list, Thanks!
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:31 PM   #40
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I sew quite a bit and have found a helpful website with lots more info here: General Discussion
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:43 PM   #41
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Did you order the big clear cutting rulers as well? You'll definitely want one of those.
I have some clear drafting rulers. I thought I'd try them before I bought more.
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:47 PM   #42
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I sew quite a bit and have found a helpful website with lots more info here: General Discussion
Thanks Bob, That looks like an interesting site.

What do you sew? Cars? Furniture? Drapes? All the above:-) ?
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