Sewing: tips, tools, materials

[Splitrock]

This link showed it too. Is this what you explained by seam allowance being the same?



This is from your link.

Thanks!

[zlee]

Yep, that's exactly what I meant!

[zlee]

I just realized I forgot to say, if you do get lighter feed dogs, you'll probably also need a new plate if they're a different config than the heavier feed dogs. Ask the machine shop if you'll need a different plate. (Ask me how I know after three different trips to my local machine shop when I got my last industrial.)

[Splitrock]

Originally Posted by zlee

I just realized I forgot to say, if you do get lighter feed dogs, you'll probably also need a new plate if they're a different config than the heavier feed dogs. Ask the machine shop if you'll need a different plate. (Ask me how I know after three different trips to my local machine shop when I got my last industrial.)

Thanks for the heads up on the feed dogs. I still have to find the local guy who deals in these industrial machines.

If I go to a much lighter thread, won't it mess with the thread tension aspect? I have #69 thread on the machine now and it sews perfect. I imagine a really heavy thread will also change the thread tension as well. I do intend to sew heavier leather and canvas, if for no other reason, to learn how to do it.

I bet I go the two machine route, rather than change the Consew too much.

I ordered the 4x8 cutting mat from your link, and I'm saving all your posts on the topic. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Gary

[zlee]

Originally Posted by Splitrock

Thanks for the heads up on the feed dogs. I still have to find the local guy who deals in these industrial machines.

If you can't find one near you (surely there must be one somewhere closer to you), Ralph's in Denver is good and can send you parts, and can also advise you on what you'll need for any industrial machine. What machine shop did the repair on it? Usually shops all sell parts as well as do repairs. You might also try calling any costume shops with regional theaters or clothing manufacturers in your area and ask who deals with their machines.

If I go to a much lighter thread, won't it mess with the thread tension aspect? I have #69 thread on the machine now and it sews perfect. I imagine a really heavy thread will also change the thread tension as well. I do intend to sew heavier leather and canvas, if for no other reason, to learn how to do it.

While tension is kind of weird at first, I would urge you to learn to embrace it. Whenever you start sewing a new project, you should do a test seam on your fabric and check the tension, adjusting for the new fabric. Whenever you change fabric, this should happen. This article is regarding home sewing machines, but the concept is pretty much the same.

I don't know this machine, but looking at the specs, it should be pretty easy to change out the feet, needle plate, and feed dogs for different kinds of fabric.

If you have no nearby industrial shop who can send someone out or bring you in to help you with learning to operate the machine, I would say go back to the lady who sold it to you and pay her to show you how to adjust the tension on the machine for different fabrics, it's really not hard. If your seam is unbalanced (thread pulling to the top or the bottom rather than right in the center of the two fabric layers), you need to be able to adjust it. (Ask specifically about the thread release finger for heavy thread, too.)

I bet I go the two machine route, rather than change the Consew too much.

Most shops of any size usually have a home machine of one sort or another for detail work, although it's not necessarily needed. I would suggest you don't go too cheap with this if you buy a new machine, as it will save you aggravation down the road. That said, I sewed with a school model Necchi for years and never had much problem with it, including wedding gowns and tailoring women's wool suits, but it gave up at Irish step dancing solo costumes. For this, I bought a Husqvarna Designer 1, which will actually sew on balsa wood and metal screening for screen doors.

I ordered the 4x8 cutting mat from your link, and I'm saving all your posts on the topic. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

I think that was McAir's link. (Many of the costume shops order from Atlanta T&S too.)

And you're welcome. blah blah returning the favor blah blah passing it on blah blah.

[mcair]

The mat comes rolled up and it does take a bit of fighting with it before it lays flat.

[Splitrock]

Originally Posted by mcair

The mat comes rolled up and it does take a bit of fighting with it before it lays flat.

Oh yeah, it was your link:-) Sorry about missing the link credit:-) The price was good and the mat is marked out in one inch grids. That'll be nice.

I spent the day trying to find the top of the pool table that will hold the board that will hold the mat. If I do much furniture, I may get moved to the garage with the whole setup. I'm avoiding that because it's expensive to heat and air condition the shop, plus, there's sawdust and lacquer overspray dust out there.

If the mat's like drafting table mats, we just use double sticky tape to hold them in place.

Thanks for your help. That was a cool link and good prices!

[zlee]

Originally Posted by mcair

The mat comes rolled up and it does take a bit of fighting with it before it lays flat.

Try a hair dryer, that's what we use in the shops.

[Splitrock]

Originally Posted by zlee

If you can't find one near you (surely there must be one somewhere closer to you), Ralph's in Denver is good and can send you parts, and can also advise you on what you'll need for any industrial machine.

That looks like a good link. Thanks!

Originally Posted by zlee

What machine shop did the repair on it? Usually shops all sell parts as well as do repairs. You might also try calling any costume shops with regional theaters or clothing manufacturers in your area and ask who deals with their machines.

A Quilt shop from Watertown, SD did the repair and sold the seller her replacement machine.

Originally Posted by zlee

If you have no nearby industrial shop who can send someone out or bring you in to help you with learning to operate the machine, I would say go back to the lady who sold it to you and pay her to show you how to adjust the tension on the machine for different fabrics, it's really not hard. If your seam is unbalanced (thread pulling to the top or the bottom rather than right in the center of the two fabric layers), you need to be able to adjust it. (Ask specifically about the thread release finger for heavy thread, too.)

That's a good idea. I have a friend here in town who has a few machines and sews parachutes. He'd come over and help me if I buy him lunch:-) Hate to admit I have a friend that jumps out of perfectly good airplanes. What can I say?

[zlee]

He'd come over and help me if I buy him lunch:-)

Cheap at half the price. Hey, throw in drinks afterwards and I'll come do it! j/k

[zlee]

By the way... I'd check with your upholstery lady and your friend and see if they know anything about the rep of these companies service depts. before using them, though.

[Splitrock]

Originally Posted by zlee

Cheap at half the price. Hey, throw in drinks afterwards and I'll come do it! j/k

I'll remember that:-)

[Splitrock]

Why is the piping material cut on the bias? Why not use straight cut material?

[zlee]

It's a wear issue. Piping is there in the first place to take the wear on the edges of the object sewn. When the piping fabric is "on the grain" (meaning that the threads are running parallel to the edge), you are exposing maybe two or three threads of the fabric to wear, constantly. When the piping fabric is on the bias (meaning that the threads are running at a 45 degree angle to the edge) you have many threads taking the wear, and the fabric is more flexible besides, so more threads are taking the wear, and the piping doesn't wear out as fast.

Putting fabric on the bias means it's stretchier as well, so the piping can move with the main body a bit easier. (Especially important when the piping is going around curves.) Take a square of fabric cut on the grain and stretch it along the grain lines. Note how much it does or doesn't stretch. Now grasp the square on the bias, and note how much more stretchy it is.

Your cutting boards and rulers will make cutting bias strips very easy. You can also get tricky and sew a bias tube, but I wouldn't bother doing stuff like that in upholstery material, too stiff.

[Splitrock]

Originally Posted by zlee

It's a wear issue. Piping is there in the first place to take the wear on the edges of the object sewn. When the piping fabric is "on the grain" (meaning that the threads are running parallel to the edge), you are exposing maybe two or three threads of the fabric to wear, constantly. When the piping fabric is on the bias (meaning that the threads are running at a 45 degree angle to the edge) you have many threads taking the wear, and the fabric is more flexible besides, so more threads are taking the wear, and the piping doesn't wear out as fast.

Putting fabric on the bias means it's stretchier as well, so the piping can move with the main body a bit easier. (Especially important when the piping is going around curves.) Take a square of fabric cut on the grain and stretch it along the grain lines. Note how much it does or doesn't stretch. Now grasp the square on the bias, and note how much more stretchy it is.

Your cutting boards and rulers will make cutting bias strips very easy. You can also get tricky and sew a bias tube, but I wouldn't bother doing stuff like that in upholstery material, too stiff.

Good answer! Makes sense, Thanks!

I had to re-order the cutting mat. The first place quit selling them. The largest size marked mat I could get was 3' x 6'. It's green. Cost about $160 with freight. That's cool. I got it from Speed Press.

Magic Cutting Mat SpeedPress Sign Supply

I'll post how it works when I get it.

[zlee]

Did you order the big clear cutting rulers as well? You'll definitely want one of those.

[zlee]

Actually, now that I think about it, it might in fact be worth making the continuous bias strip tube with upholstery fabric. (Seeing as how seat cushions do need long bias piping.) Just remember that when you cut it, you'll also be cutting the thread at the end of the seams and take it easy so you don't open the seam up by accident. (And if you do, heck, just sew it back up again anyway.)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDPlgSCLDMM

ETA: btw, don't use the fading marker like she's using here if you're using darker fabric, it won't show up. A seamstress's chalk pencil can come in colors appropriate for dark fabrics.

[zlee]

Originally Posted by Splitrock

I had to re-order the cutting mat. The first place quit selling them. The largest size marked mat I could get was 3' x 6'. It's green. Cost about $160 with freight. That's cool. I got it from Speed Press..

It might be too late, but you might try here.

[Splitrock]

Originally Posted by zlee

It might be too late, but you might try here.

I'll add the link to my short list, Thanks!

[Bob Thompson]

I sew quite a bit and have found a helpful website with lots more info here: General Discussion