Removing the shower stall - 61 Bambi

61BambiCanada · 06-07-2002, 10:54 AM

I want to remove the shower stall to replace some plumbing that runs behind it. I have removed all of the cabinets and rivets, however it seems held on by the shower drain and the toilet flange. How do I get these off? The toilet flange seems like it may unscrew, however it is quite rusted and seems like it would need a special tool.

Advice?

LR

**Andy R** · 06-15-2002, 05:55 PM

I may be taking the shower stall out also, if it is not to tough.

61BambiCanada · 06-15-2002, 08:21 PM

No replies to this yet - and I havn't attempted anything yet. Bobby had said that one needs to fabricate a tool to get one of the peices off - but I can't figure out how to get either off. I was going to get a plumber in to redo the pipes, and I thought I would see if he knew how to remove it. I would be interested in any info that you may come across. My trailer is now gutted and in for new Zolotone on the inside and having the tongue, axel and bumper sandblasted and painted outside, and having the skin polished. During this time I am refinishing the cabinets, having the appliances cleaned and checked and having the foam and upholstery done. When it gets back I am installing new vinyl flooring, having the plumbing done and putting it all back together - hopefully in time to take a trip to Napa California in mid August.

How's your project coming?

LR

InsideOut · 06-15-2002, 08:54 PM

LR ~

So you decided to have the Zolotone done? Good decision! Glad you found someone to help out...

Did you find a color to match the existing pretty well? Post pictures when it's done...and also the color number for others use in the future or did you go with a custom color?

Anyway, this is the place to share what you learned..

Shari

**Andy R** · 06-15-2002, 09:37 PM

The whole trailer is gutted (minus the bathroom). I am stripping the windows frames to bare aluminum. Next I will polish the frames. I have new weather stripping to replaced the hard cracked stripping. All the Herh cranks and window locks are off so I can clean and restore them. I will add silver tint to the windows. Then they will all be nicely restored.

The floor tiles has been removed and all the mastic (backing) was removed using adhesive remover. I have belt sanded the floor and the plywood looks brand new! My trailer spent it'swhole life in Idaho, nice and dry!

After the frames are perfect and the interior is re-painted,I will install a new vinyl floor.

How much did it cost to have the Zolotone painted?

I have been thinking I would just use regular paint, since I want pure white. But that Zolotone is some tough stuff. I am hoping that after this restoration, she will be good for another 41 years!

61BambiCanada · 06-16-2002, 01:58 AM

The final cost for the Zolotone is yet to be determined. The product itself should be about $120 USD for 2 gallons. There will be a cost for the primer too. The labor should be fairly straightforward as I removed everything so all they need to do is mask the windows, rough it up and spray it. I'm thinking about $400 total. My trailer has brown appliances, brown uphostery, yellow shower surround and sort of brown specled asphalt tile. The color of Zolotone that was on my trailer was a kind of white with slight yellow specs. Zolotone has nothing that is exact, but we are currently doing some experimenting to get the specs the right size. Andy at Inland suggested using Camille white which is as close as anything.

I am using the Zolotone because I beleive that anything that I can do to keep my trailer as original as possible should be a good investment as will ultimately enhance the value, and simulate as close as possible what it was like to have one of these beauties when they were new.

I have done quite a bit of looking to try to find a floor tile as close as I can to the original, and pretty well decided to use Armstrong number 47152
http://armstrong.com/commflooringna/...?item_id=47152

available at Home depot for about .50 per tile. I havn't decided yet if I am going to cut down the 12 x 12 tiles into 9 x 9's. This will add about $40 to the cost of the tile plus the labor to cut them. Once again - I am leaning toward the 9 x 9's to get it more like the original.

My current delemma is trying to determine what kind of wood they made the interior from. I had thought all along that it was birch, however when I took a sample of the wood to my local specialty wood store, none of the staff thought is was. In fact, they could not agree on what it was! I am going to take back a larger sample and one of the plywood cupboard doors to see if they can match it. I am also trying find a suitable fabric to recover the cushions, and deciding if I should replace the foam with something a little more firm as the old foam is kind of soft and spungy.

Decisions, decisions!

LR

thenewkid64 · 06-16-2002, 09:10 AM

Just an FYI.

Whether you decide on 9x9 or 12x12 tiles you need to line the seams in the tiles up with the seams in the plywood floor. If you bridge the seams you could incur cracking of the tiles, or the tiles could come loose. Sounds like you are doing a bang up job. Do you have any in progress pictures?

BobbyW · 06-16-2002, 09:37 AM

Andy;

Before you remove it, can you post a reference photo or 2 in your Photo Gallery of your Bambi's shower stall as it sits now.

-BobbyWright

61BambiCanada · 06-16-2002, 11:35 AM

I havn't measured, (The trailer is in the paint shop), but are the seams in the plywood something divisible by 9"? Otherwise, you would have a partial tile somewhere in the middle of the floor that I imagine would look kind of funny.

I must admit that although my wife has a good digital camera that I am kind of ignorant when it comes to posting photos. I keep telling myself that if I could only get over the mental hurdle of learning how to use it - I could sell so much stuff on Ebay that I could pay for the whole restoration and then some!

LR