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Old 10-30-2007, 11:15 AM   #15
Rivet Master
1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg , Illinois
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If you use plain steel wool to give you a brushed finish you will leave small pieces of plain steel embedded in the aluminum. If the unit is stored over the winter condensation on the walls may cause them to rust and you will get small red rust spots. I suggest you use Stainless steel pads or oxalic acid wash the walls after you are done if you use regular steel wool.

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Old 10-30-2007, 02:36 PM   #16
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1972 Argosy 20
2007 Base Camp
Middletown , New Jersey
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Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy
Now Bob - be careful! The wife may take the keyboard away! : >
Nah, Liz is cool with my past life (I played baritone sax 6 nights a week for the strippers in a big band when I was in college)...

Bob Fowler

Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

TAC - NJ-007

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Old 10-30-2007, 04:38 PM   #17
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1956 22' Safari
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Conifer/Evergreen , Colorado
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We just stripped several layers of paint and 98% of the Zolotone on the interior of our '56.

It's gutted and we are replacing the floor - so it's gone too. We used two different 'safe' strippers because it is enclosed and overhead. We used Napier Remov-all and Citristrip. Both worked. Citristrip smelled 10X better than the Napier and it's readily available at Home Depot whereas we had to order the Napier. We applied one coat, let it sit for 10-15 minutes then power washed it off. I think the Citristrip worked better than the Napier in one coat. It was not our goal to go down to bare metal because we are going to re-Zolotone and wanted to leave some "tooth" for it to stick to. I'm certain the Citristrip would take off all the Zolotone with another coat, especailly if you don't have all the latex paint we did over it. Napier might do it in a second coat, but most likely two.

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